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Sliding Window

Taledrger

Taledrger

SPONSOR
SW Michigan
I got my "new to me" L21B home last week. Took 9.5 hrs from CO to SW Michigan. What a fun trip. Now I need to start fixing all the little stuff every new acquisition requires. My first project is the sliding window. It appears these window may have been installed wrong. Seeing as I don't know which is the front and which is the back. Nor which goes on the inside and which on the out side I'm a bit confused. If I install the way the fuzzys would dictate they don't fit the channels at the front and rear.
Can some one give guidance here.
Thanks
Bob
 
Bob:

Make sure rear sliding window is inside the front one. Learned the hard way. When cross-controlled, the rear window will bulge out and pop if it's wrong. Cost me 6 holes in my new fabric to learn that.

Best of luck and have fun.
murph
 
Murph,
Thanks for the info. Yes that's the way it was. Am I correct that the window with the handle is the front and the one with two fuzzies is the rear' or is it the other way? Also should the window pop out to change or should the upper rail be removed when changin the windows
Bob
 
Windows won't fit if you try to put the front one in the back. The rear window is more than 90 degrees at the rear. The best way to remove them is to remove the track at the top and tilt the whole thing inboard. It is a bit of a pain to get the #4 pk screws lined back up and screwed in sometimes. I have gotten frustrated and drilled new holes before. I made new windows recently for $14 worth of plexiglass and the new window channels that mount on the windows that Cub Crafters came out with. They also have the a channel slide kit that is a lot less expensive than Univair.
 
Thanks for info Steve. My confusion was put to rest when I removed the windows and found that the person who last replaced them made them identical, so neither would fit correctly in the rear position. So, it's off to the Plexiglass store. Need to get this done by this afternoon so I can go for a spin. (a little to chilly here for no windows still)

Bob
 
Check in with Jim Drometer Aircraft Restoration Supplies in Belle Plaine, MN on this one(952) 873-6659 drometer@aol.com. He just rebuilt the sliding windows on my PA-18. He completely redid the channels that they slide in, using a new material. They work better than any others that I have seen. He made up at least two sets and is trying the other set in another Cub. If they work in more than one plane, I think that he is going to try to get an STC.
 
Dont use plexiglas........

When you replace your sliding windows, don't buy plexiglas, but Lexan. Lexan is practically unbreakable, and Plexiglas fractures if you look at it hard. Lexan is also cheap and available.

Mike
 
Plexiglass is more scratch resistant than Lexan and in the sliding window application that is more desirable to me. It is hard to break the side windows with the wrap around aluminum channels installed. Also might be nice to be able to break them out in case of an emergency egress.
 
You also can't see clearly thru Lexan with your polaroids. It's like looking thru an oily sheen.


Mark
 
Windows

Steve, I am at the point on my rebuild of window replacement. Can you elaborate on the new CC window channels and slides. I was not sure in your post whether you were referring to the felt lined type U channel or something else. I am starting with a bare window frame.
 
anyone else notice the sliding Chanel like Stodards is selling last few years is different/chintzy now than it used to be. the "felt" fur inside it is just stick on, and not clamped under the chrome edges...... don't think it will last long....

Also i did see some original piper sliding Chanel that was aluminum not steel, does anyone sell that? much lighter
 
No STC. Just a kit that included the "U" channels and the stiffeners that fasten to the slider at a reasonable price. Call Vera at Cub Crafters and see if they still offer the kit. Let us know what you find out, I think my Dad got one piece out of my last kit so I will need to get another one in the not to distant future. :wink:
 
I found the original piper channel. A ridged U channel covered in cloth with the fuzzy inside. I paid $40.00 for it from a glass shop & it came 8 ft and 1/2" long. I am trying to find the short side pieces that are cloth covered with the fuzzy on one side. Does anyone know where to get them?
Don't use the channel with the bead on the edges. The bead can come off and all the cloth fuzzy stuff comes off the channel.
 
Window channel from an automotive supply works fine, but the top channel needs to be reinforced with a 1/2'X1/2" angle bent from thin aluminum.sandwiched between the new channel and the top of the window. the old Piper channels were steel, but the replacements, I found that fit, are flexible. Reinforce the leading edge of the front window and the trailing edge of the rear window with thin aluminum bent in a U with a 90 degree flange about 3/8" wide on the interior side. The flange stiffens the window and serves as a handle. Leave off the flanges on the over-lapping edges.The fuzzy side of Velcro tape on these siffners works to protect the plexiglass. Use soft rivets to attach the stiffners. Be sure to drill the rivet holes in the plexiglass oversize.
 
Ron---You got the flexible channel instead of the ridged channel. They both look a like and the ridged channel is steel & that is the one to get. 1951 Chev truck used the channel. I was told from a wholesaler that it cost $18.00!!! Also it comes in 3 ft. lengths which would be better for shipping.
Someone out there makes the side piece stiffeners with the fuzzy on one side because it has the same cloth and fuzzy stuff that matches the channel. They call it a window edge wipe. I am trying to locate it.
This stuff is real cheap. We just need to find the supplier or manufacturer.
 
Hey TJ;

Quit deletin' all your posts! What up with that? I like reading what you have to say.


8)
 
Here is another way to get the "U" channels - make them yourself from 5052 H32 aluminum, .025 thk.
These homemade channels are bent and folded to form the "U" and handhold.
They are riveted to Lexan which requires SS inserts in the lexan to avoid crushing it (buy the SS inserts from McMaster Carr on the Internet).
Velcro is a little thick for use as the cushion to avoid scratching the Lexan or Plexiglas. I prefer 3/64 (.047) thk sticky back black felt also sold by McMaster Carr. Give it a try.
Darrel
P9080006_cropped.jpg

P1030009a.jpg
 
You can also put a few drops of epoxy glue in the channel to hold it on with no rivits. That's the way the Huskys do it at the factory.
 
palhal, Do you know what kind of epoxy they are using.

Darrrel, That is some nice work.

The kit I got from Cub Crafters a few years ago looks like Darrel's parts but they use silicone to install them. That is how I did it and they haven't come off yet.
 
Steve, thanks for the compliment. I have an old Enco (Chinese) 4 ft brake I bought used and a 32 inch Chinese shear like the one recently discussed in another thread. My point is that it doesn't take great equipment but there is a learning curve to making parts that you are designing as you go. The key is perseverance. Make one, see what went wrong, try again, see what went wrong this time, make a third one and hey -- got something usable.
Hang in there, Darrel
 
Sounds like the landing light mounting plates I made on the same machine you referenced. Third time was the charm. :wink:
 
As Always, great work Darrel. I've got to get a brake and a shear....This way, I don't have to always go to someone who has those items. I can do them myself.
 
what thickness is the glass you are using? i just blew both of mine out learning the hard way which goes out/in.
 
Steve----I don't know what kind of epoxy Huskys use. I am going to check with the local plastic people and see what they use. My friend with the Husky had to take one off and he used a putty knife and finally broke it loose, so it sticks real good.
 
I used a sheet of polycarbonate (same as Lexan) made by Sheffield Plastics, Makrolon High Tech Plastic from Bayer Corp. It has a hard surface coating to resist scratching.
Thickness measures 0.112 inches. I think it was sold to me as 1/8 thick but probably was intended to be 3 mm thick (0.118 inches).
 
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