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Flap Handle Modifications

Pictures are a problem for me. The ratchet stop bar is the same as the original, except that it is longer. The handle is just a piece of 4130 tubing which slides over the original handle. There is a screw into the original handle, which holds it in place. The cable extension is just a flat .125" piece of 4130 which is bolted to the original tab with two AN-3 bolts.
 
I have done a 4" cut.

My understanding has been that 4" inches was a common length to remove.

3" inches would not be enough to solve the problem for me.
 
I have done a 4" cut.

My understanding has been that 4" inches was a common length to remove.

3" inches would not be enough to solve the problem for me.

Dave,
What is the problem (reason) to remove the 4"? Is it for left leg clearance with full left stick? As you will note from my above posts I have added 3" so that the handle just clears the bottom of the instrument panel. The short handle just does not have enough leverage to move the double sized flaps to 56 degrees. The air loads are too great. I can understand the short handle with the stock (short) flaps, it just doesn't work with the long ones.
 
Yes, to allow the control stick to go full left stick travel with the flap lever pulled......and with your left leg between the two. Stock length flap lever it is impossible.
 
Yes, to allow the control stick to go full left stick travel with the flap lever pulled......and with your left leg between the two. Stock length flap lever it is impossible.


Good topic, I'm skinny enough that full flap is no problem thus landings are never an issue with a left crosswind .. .. however second notch (mid point ) is tight even for me can't quite get full left aileron

i looked into modifying the handle but no stc I could find, without that not legal this side of the border ...
your seat can make a difference too though I prefer the original seat in smooth vinyl or leather with no side bolster ...
 
Now the long handle moves the flaps easily and, in spite of having the wide fuselage, I have had to revert back to lifting my left leg for full left stick. Oh, well. I am still very happy with the wider fuselage. It does not feel wider, even though it is.

The overhead flap handle is a good idea, I just like the old school idea of "lifting" the airplane off the ground or over the trees. It seems more natural to me. I'll just have to put up with the handle being in the way.
 
I like the overhead flap lever scheme. I will do that on MY exp. Cub....two projects down the road
 
......Now I can very comfortably pull on and release full flaps. The three flap settings are 20, 36 and 56 degrees. I use 36 for take off. I am of slight build with long arms, this alteration works well for me.

Unfortunately I have only had one opportunity for testing. The lake froze up, so I am grounded for the duration.

We had a January thaw. Temps in the upper 40s and half of the ice went out, so I went flying today. I can happily say that the modifications which I made to the flap control system is very satisfactory. I'm pleased. The flap handle does get in the way with full left stick, though no worse than a stock Cub. The float over the trees and on landing is gone.
 
Ok, so I now know that I want to cut my flap handle down. Does anyone have any photos or details of what is involved in the process?
 
I wonder how this mod would work to solve the interference problem at the flap handle area

Leg.jpg
 

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Why come with all the mods and STCs (and money spent) for PA18's nobody has designed an overhead flap system for supercubs?
 
... or details of what is involved in the process?

it's here somewhere.. but I will try to do it again from memory...

  1. since you are shortening it, you CAN bend it to the left side some more... you SHOULD remove handle from plane to heat it... but I have done it in plane ONCE, quite scary! with the fuel/vapors right there.... best to remove it..
  2. to remove handle you pull the 1/8"? cotter pin the shaft rotates on going from seat base to left side of fuselage, mark rod as it comes out so you don't have to guess which end is which and which side is UP... they were hand drilled and only go back together one way..
  3. pull the little clevis pin out of the bottom that the pawl rotates on...
  4. that will let you pull the button you push and 1/8" rod,spring and pawl out... might have to wiggle it..
  5. remove the two PK screws a few inches down handle from button
  6. cut off handle just below screw holes(some people cut off more... SAVE the piece you cut off we need to use it for its length measurement
  7. drill new screw holes same distance from end of handle as originals were, and put screws back in, or new ones
  8. mid way down the 1/8" rod with button on end, cut out same amount of rod(thats why we save that piece..)
  9. weld rod back together
  10. carefully heat and bend if wanted... then repaint/powdercoat
  11. reinstall guts...
 
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