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PA-18 with C90 - Mods - When to Stop

I sometimes envy you lower elevation pilots and your ability to fly lower HP planes. But I would have a hard time leaving my present location 8)
 
I sometimes envy you lower elevation pilots and your ability to fly lower HP planes. But I would have a hard time leaving my present location 8)

You might be surprised. I'm at 4500ish and summer DAs are regularly well over 7000. I flew a Piper PA-11 out of here for five years and never really had to worry much about altitude. Sometimes I got help from terrain, but last time I came back from Idaho in that plane, I was at 11,500 msl, and that was pretty easy. Correct prop, and a little patience, and most of all, careful loading allow those airplanes to work.

As the man said, you do have to fly the wing.....

A friend who posts on here went to Oshkosh from SE Idaho year before last in a 90 hp PA-11 with one fuel stop, and in one day, up over 9 K....good tailwind.

They will teach you a few things about wind, thermals, etc.

MTV
 
You might be surprised. I'm at 4500ish and summer DAs are regularly well over 7000. I flew a Piper PA-11 out of here for five years and never really had to worry much about altitude. Sometimes I got help from terrain, but last time I came back from Idaho in that plane, I was at 11,500 msl, and that was pretty easy. Correct prop, and a little patience, and most of all, careful loading allow those airplanes to work.

As the man said, you do have to fly the wing.....

A friend who posts on here went to Oshkosh from SE Idaho year before last in a 90 hp PA-11 with one fuel stop, and in one day, up over 9 K....good tailwind.

They will teach you a few things about wind, thermals, etc.

MTV
I am at 5600’ and out DA’s often hit 9000’+ and I want to land at higher elevations at times.
 
I wouldn’t go to extended gear. If you can get the 29 inch Airstreak field approved, I’d go there in a heartbeat. If not, probably 29 inch BW. That alone will give all the prop clearance you need. And angle.

With an electric Cub, I’d swap the stock battery for an Odyssey or Earth X, preferably under seat with Atlee’s kit. Then, if electric stuff quits, replace with lightweight starter, alternator, etc. But only as stuff fails. Unless money is no problem. But those can reduce weight substantially.

MTV

Forget Earth-X and starter, tear all that crap off and hand prop it. If you can't hand prop a small Cont safely then you're doing it wrong!

You should be able to lose an easy 15lbs at least taking the flywheel, wiring, starter, and battery out. On an engine that has a whopping 7.5:1 compression ratio I count an electric starter as an unnecessary item.
 
Thanks to everyone for the constructive advice. I think I will ask Santa for 29" Airstreaks and just fly it. Replace the stuff that goes out with lighter stuff and spend my money on Ga$!
 
Thanks to everyone for the constructive advice. I think I will ask Santa for 29" Airstreaks and just fly it. Replace the stuff that goes out with lighter stuff and spend my money on Ga$!

If Airframes has a Black Friday sale, count me in for a set, too!
 
With an electric Cub, I’d swap the stock battery for an Odyssey or Earth X, preferably under seat with Atlee’s kit. Then, if electric stuff quits, replace with lightweight starter, alternator, etc. But only as stuff fails. Unless money is no problem. But those can reduce weight substantially.

MTV

When I replaced my boat anchor battery with a lightweight I moved it under the front seat, but I wish I kept it in the original location. It’s too nose heavy now when solo. Still within limits when solo but doesn’t land as nice unless there’s ballast in the baggage area.
 
Forget Earth-X and starter, tear all that crap off and hand prop it. If you can't hand prop a small Cont safely then you're doing it wrong!

You should be able to lose an easy 15lbs at least taking the flywheel, wiring, starter, and battery out. On an engine that has a whopping 7.5:1 compression ratio I count an electric starter as an unnecessary item.

An electrical system is a real luxury. I had a no electric Cub for five or so years. Propping an airplane doesn’t scare me, but I’ll tell you, the “squeeze” is on that process, and it gets tighter every time some numb nuts runs his airplane through a bunch of planes/hangars/etc. one of these days the insurance industry is going to figure that out.

Even the FAA is getting I that act now, dropping hints every time there’s an incident.

But, frankly, I just don’t need the stress, and I am very experienced at the process.

And, it’s just really nice to climb aboard and twist that key, specially on a cold icy day.

To each his own, but frankly, if my Cub had been an 18-90 with electric, I’d probably still own it.

And, you can remove a lot of weight going to lightweight components. Those old generators are HEAVY, and mostly a POS as well.

MTV
 
I am with MTV. After 55 years of hand propping, all Cubs are converted to push button. All are also without alternators. We are getting 75 starts between charges on the Odyssey PC575 battery.

My partner is putting Grove/26" wheels on one of the J3s. That will do three things: reduce payload, reduce performance, and reduce crosswind capability. We do have one mountain strip around here that is semi-rough, and thus an excuse for big tires on local Cubs, but I landed there without problems in my Decathlon, so the big tires are really just for appearance. Did I mention the cost?

I have taken a 65 hp Cub through Butte/Bozeman in the summer without any problems. Flagstaff was interesting on a 90 degree day, but as I proceeded southbound I gained a thousand feet of ground clearance just by holding my altitude. If you want to operate from airports at high density altitudes, skip the big tires.

Very few stock 18-95s remain. That's a shame; they are the optimum trainer.
 
I sure hope I’m happy with my 11 when I get it airborne... I have the B&C starter and 8Amp setup on the O200....2-18 Gal tanks (Which I’ll seldom use both) .... I do have 26” bushwheels and TK1s... I’m all done with paint except I need to buy new sealed struts...or Aluminum?? Then I can put it all together. I Haven't bought a battery yet...leaning towards Earth X....no weight yet , getting there.
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When I replaced my boat anchor battery with a lightweight I moved it under the front seat, but I wish I kept it in the original location. It’s too nose heavy now when solo. Still within limits when solo but doesn’t land as nice unless there’s ballast in the baggage area.

Yep, really jacks with how a 90 hp Super Cub flies. Leave the battery in the stock location and install an SBJ16 or an EarthX.

Crash Jr. when you get old and your body is paying you back for all the stupid **** you did when you are younger you might compromise the starter and battery for the lighter weight. ;)
 
Yep, really jacks with how a 90 hp Super Cub flies. Leave the battery in the stock location and install an SBJ16 or an EarthX.

Crash Jr. when you get old and your body is paying you back for all the stupid **** you did when you are younger you might compromise the starter and battery for the lighter weight. ;)

should I weigh mine before deciding where to mount the Battery? I was thinking of putting it under the front seat. I have a nice extended baggage area though
 
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If you have to put the battery under the front seat the easiest fix is keeping useful ballast in the baggage. Small tool kit, survival kit, a qt. of oil, etc.
 
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The external baggage door and the extended baggage itself already put some extra weight aft....I’ll weigh it when I pin my wings on and see where it sits before I finish fabricating the battery box. No rush
 

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Odyssey in original location. Lightweight, makes fooling with brakes easier. The smaller 545 is enough, and is lighter than the 680.
 
And if you weigh it, use care to not state that in the logs or on a 337. We have a weighed Super Cub with a 402# useful load. That’s 100# less than my J3.
 
And if you weigh it, use care to not state that in the logs or on a 337. We have a weighed Super Cub with a 402# useful load. That’s 100# less than my J3.
Lol, I can go up to 1400lbs GW according to the plans, however, I was hoping the New supposed light sport rules would get implemented increasing the weight limit....I won’t hold my breath..that would give me a little buffer ..I was hoping to keep it in that category if possible. I’m estimating around 850-870 lbs on this build....stuff really adds up....I bought the ultralight experimental 26” ABWs but I heard they don’t hold up as well as Airstreaks...so we will see. My group does a lot of beach landing up here so I may end up on 29” Airstreaks after these wear out.
 
You should be able to lose an easy 15lbs at least taking the flywheel, wiring, starter, and battery out. On an engine that has a whopping 7.5:1 compression ratio I count an electric starter as an unnecessary item.[/QUOTE]

no flywheel on the continentals, starter is in the back.
Ive said it before and will stand by it, anyone who says flaps don’t help on a -18- 95 hasn’t flown one before and after. They help on takeoff and landing and your not always playing with the trim just adding or reducing flaps as speed and mission changes.
3” extended gear is only needed if your going on skis, those 31s don’t help prop clearance or Angle of Attack issues when there back in the hangar in the winter.
The Rancher that now flys my old -95 wouldn’t trade it for a 160hp cub even up I’m pretty sure,,,he loves it as did I but the little Continentals have plenty of issues unique to them like carb ice and cylinder troubles.
dave
 
New cylinders on overhaul eliminates a lot of old cylinder failures, 500 hours and still have 80/80 compressions on new ECI jugs when it was built. Tim
 
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