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I took the plunge..ADSB

RVBottomly

PATRON
Asotin County Washington (KLWS)
I feel kind of bad for being AWOL for several months. My WagAero 2+2 project has been neglected for a while. I have excuses but they aren't important.

But today I committed to an AV30 install on my 1946 Commonwealth SkyRanger, with an addition of the TailBeaconX ADSB transponder. Kind of strange to add a $6500 install to an $11,000 airplane, but I am in the mood to go over to SEA often to visit my Mom and sister. Plus, I'm enamored with having an actual attitude indicator. I can't account for some of this, so I won't try. But I see more cross-countries in the future. I'm still looking for an engine for my 2+2 project, and see me being more active on that in a month or two.

So it goes. The flying bug doesn't let up. And my SkyRanger is really a fun little airplane.
 
Don't know much about Commonwealth Sky Rangers, but they always looked like a well engineered and well built airplane. Am I correct that the airplane came from the factory with a C-85-12 engine and electrical system?

Our PA-11 doesn't have an electrical system and not being able to enter class B or C airspace isn't a big problem for us. FAR 91.215 (b)(3) allows us to fly under the airspace and within the 30 mile veil of class B and that helps in our case. it would be nice to have that capability, though. I'm not against ADS-B. There would be an added (and slight) safety benefit of being detectable by TCAS and lower tech traffic displays found in most cockpits as well.

In our evaluation, its not worth the expense and weight penalty of installing a battery and ADS-B equipment. I would install the gear if we operated an airplane with an electrical system.
 
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Don't know much about Commonwealth Sky Rangers, but they always looked like a well engineered and well built airplane. Am I correct that the airplane came from the factory with a C-85-12 engine and electrical system?

Yes, electrical system and C-85 from the factory. Mine has a C-90 installed in the 80s. One interesting thing about the electrical system is the master switch is a push-pull cable attached to a knife switch on the battery. I've had 2 mechanics think the master switch was faulty because it didn't click a solenoid...until I told them about how it works.
 
Now that's cool. No battery solenoid equals one less component to fail......as long as the cable is in rig.

It looks like the airplane has a 23000 series airfoil. Bet its way faster than a Cub.
 
Now that's cool. No battery solenoid equals one less component to fail......as long as the cable is in rig.

It looks like the airplane has a 23000 series airfoil. Bet its way faster than a Cub.

Yes, closer to a Taylorcraft. Cruise at a whopping 98 mph. It probably would be faster without the wing slots, but they are cool too.


Sent from my iPhone using SuperCub.Org mobile app
 
Now that's cool. No battery solenoid equals one less component to fail......as long as the cable is in rig.

It looks like the airplane has a 23000 series airfoil. Bet its way faster than a Cub.

Yes, a mechanical master is great, when you forget to turn it off, no worries! I got mine from Summit Racing, mounted on the firewall right near the EarthX battery (very short leads) with a push/pull rod going up to the panel. Simple and effective as can be, I'll never have a regular master solenoid in an exp. again.
 
Yes, a mechanical master is great, when you forget to turn it off, no worries! I got mine from Summit Racing, mounted on the firewall right near the EarthX battery (very short leads) with a push/pull rod going up to the panel. Simple and effective as can be, I'll never have a regular master solenoid in an exp. again.

I am intrigued by this. Have a link to the mechanical master you are running? I am not seeing them on Summit, unless you are using a standard master disconnect? Either way, what a great simple idea.
 
I am intrigued by this. Have a link to the mechanical master you are running? I am not seeing them on Summit, unless you are using a standard master disconnect? Either way, what a great simple idea.
This? https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-830051
sum-830051_xl.jpg
 
That appears to be the exact one I have...., the stock pushrod was solid aluminum, as shown, I made a much lighter one out of 1/2" tubing, drilled with lightening holes.
 
Combined with a weight(mass), it becomes a ‘disconnect while crashing’ safety device…
 
Nice idea. Would someone like to get one STC'd for a C-180? :) Mine was eating master solenoids for a while until I stopped putting in the "newer" manufactured ones and bought an old stock (cutler hammer I believe) unit that has worked great ever since (I still have a spare in my glove box). I think the problem has to do with the length of the cable from the solenoid/battery to the starter solenoid.

sj
 
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