Fabric Repair

[Erik]

I've got a 1981 Super Cub with original from the factory paint and fabric. It looks great. But I need to repair a few spots where the paint has cracked and pealed away from the fabric (curled). I'm pretty sure it is Ceconite because I've seen that word in a few spots. Also, I spent a bit of time doing the Stits system on fabric repairs to a different plane a year ago, so I am a little familiar with the process/products.

Questions: Can I use either Stits or Ceconite repair products? Are there different processes from each manufacturer to be aware of? In my case, the fabric below is good (blue/no fading and looks healthy - thanks to its life in a hanger), so can I strip the paint back and reprocess the spots or should I place fabric over the paint cracked areas and then reprocess? What about doping the exposed fabric and pushing the pealed paint down into the dope?

Thanks, Erik

 

[Steve Pierce]

If it is dope I would get the Ceconite manual first. Spot the blue spots with silver to protect from UV. Build it up, wet sand the edges and shoot color. Don't mix systems if you want to stay legal and eliminate problems.

 

[Erik]

Thanks Steve. Ok, I won't mix systems. Not sure what you mean by "is it dope". I thought all fabric finish systems used "dope", which to me is the silver based anti-u.v. layer below the paint. But, I am an ignoramus about this subject at this point!

Anyone know where to get Ceconite products in Alaska? There doesn't appear to be anyone in Fairbanks who carries them (I called Northland, Tamarack, Hi-Tech, and I have a call in to Hanger No. 1). Maybe Stoddards in Anchorage?

Thanks, Erik

 

[Steve Pierce]

Dope to me is nitrate/butyrate system (formerly Randolph), then there is Poly Fiber (Stits pink colored base coat vs blue nitrate) Then there are the polyurethane systems like Air Tec and Super Flight. They have a tan colored base coat.

 

[Erik]

FYI: Hanger No. 1 here in Fairbanks carries Randolph/Ceconite product.

Looks like I will be using the rejuvenator (Randolph Butysolv J-3000) to reattach the finish layers to the fabric and then spraying with the silver (Randolph Rand-O-Fill) to U.V. protect the line of exposed fabric left over, then spraying with finish color (Randolph Butrate Dope) to match existing color. No dope/fabric work necessary since underlying fabric is structurally sound.

Thanks, Erik

P.S. doesn't everyone go through this to keep up their plane?