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Exhaust Installation Tricks/Tips

Binty

Registered User
South Island, New Zealand
My mufflers baffling is shot. We have found a used replacement unit in excellent condition and are about to install after having dropped the pipes and pulled the old muffler assembly. Are there any tips out there to consider when reinstalling? (my old one used to have a pesky leak under the L/H muffler clamp I could never stop...

eg..Anyone use manifold sealant?

...I know that attaching the cabin heater box duct is a B---h of a job!
 
I use muffler paste. The holes for the pin clmpas won't be in the same place. Make sure the slits that allow the pipe to slip in are completely covered by the pipe, seems obvious but seen this problem several times.
 
had a mechanic use aluminium foil under the clamp, worked pretty good.
not to slide track your thread, but has anybody ever wrapped the exhaust pipes to help keep heat down in the engine compartment
 
had a mechanic use aluminium foil under the clamp, worked pretty good.
not to slide track your thread, but has anybody ever wrapped the exhaust pipes to help keep heat down in the engine compartment

I would imagine the tinfoil would work good as well. On a recommendation I used it to shim a hydraulic pump, and was surprised on how perfectly it worked.

Curious about wrapping the exhaust pipes as well. Bikes and cars have done it for years, Jet-Hot coats pipes for performance aspects of flow scavenging and heat.


Transmitted from my FlightPhone
 
As for wrapping the pipes, The only concern I would have is how much hotter would the exhaust stream be? The cowl cheek exit temps would be noticeably lower, but the heat stream is now more intense where it hits the bungee cover or front leg, depending on what system you have.
 
I have o235 Lycoming , no oil cooler, running hot oil temps, exhaust temps are running 1250 to 1300, have about 10' of exhaust pipe inside the cowl, thought if I could get more of that heat out through the pipes maybe the oil temps would come down. I double checked that pipe length, it pretty close to 10', I was surprised.
 
All I know about the Super Cub exhaust is that that 50 hour AD is apparently problematic. It takes me a darn day! Others just skip it - had three FAA repair shops do annuals on a bird with no AD done in 700 hours!

The STC for the Grumman style exhaust may not look all Super Cub like, but it sure makes things easier.
 
I use muffler paste. The holes for the pin clmpas won't be in the same place. Make sure the slits that allow the pipe to slip in are completely covered by the pipe, seems obvious but seen this problem several times.

Muffler paste on the mufflers slip joints or the exhaust flanges at the cylinders?
 
My radiator lies in the bottom of the cowling, so I had to wrap my stainless exhaust to keep that heat out of the radiator. I fussed over it too much at first, but I just passed 100 hours with it looking a bit ragged. With a 912, safety wire will cut thru eventually, you have to use the little metal ty-wraps. I suspect with a larger lo-rpm engine you might get away with safety wire.
I did try that special foil that has a ceramic pattern printed on it, it melted on the cans, didn't bother trying on the headers.
 
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