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35" vs 31" Bushwheels

Damn!!!! Tango voted for Obama .....

As a middle class white Dude, who had to sell his house to buy a Cub. I feel entitled now also... Where's my 35's???? Thanks Tango..... :drinking:
 
16-bravo said:
I think that what they need to build for us guys that are torn, is a lightwieght 33" bushwweel, that will fit on our 6" wheels. I think I would definitely buy a set of those, no matter what my wife said. ABW, can you help us guys out that can't make a decision. PLEESEEEEEEE. :D


Ok here ya go...

BUY THE 35's

:lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:

And as soon as our bailout check gets here I will talk to bill and see what we can do on a 33'' tire..... :crazyeyes:
 
Ak said:
Didn't the old 35 inch Goodyear air wheels run a 6 inch wheel. Why can't the 35 Bushwheels be designed with a 6 inch wheel in mind?

The extra sidewall reinforcement that would be needed would push the "Light weight" right out the door. we looked at this before we built it in a 10" and wow was it ugly!! tryin to keep something that big away from the brakes could have been a very nasty task.
 
84Z,

please do not confuse the wisdom of knowing where the next few years income will be from, with being stupid enough to help put someone in office that will be the cause of the above need!

If you can't beat them, join them! and if it is more$ for me right now, (and a set of new bushwheels) I be joining...
 
As far as the "bail out". This guy makes a lot of sense no matter what party affiliation you are.

This is a senate panel asking the Governors of America what they should do.....

This is South Carolina's Governor and the panel. The panel is scary in my opinion.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-GxY2WzaGjE

Take care.

Greg
 
Yet another of Crash's great finds!

That poor Gov. was like a cub pilot at a Husky convention: Right, but unappreciated :wink: :wink: :wink:
 
Thanks Crash!

Sanford is on the money!

Sanford/Palin 2012!?!, Oops, did I say that?

Anyway, thanks for the link Greg!

DAVE
 
Yes, I think 33" Bushwheels on 6" wheels would be the ticket. Save a lot of weight and cost.

Take care

Crash
 
On the exp. side of things i think the 10 inch wheel is better than the 6 and a 12 would be even better. Rubber is heavy and you are stuck with what the molded for shape,( no way to lighten up) with a larger wheel you can use various materials ,wall thicknesses to lighten the set up on the wheel side. The bushwheel wheels are way over built in my opinion as are most certified aircraft parts at the penalty of weight. If we are only talking about super cubs. I had a person who builds race car wheels look at what we use for aircraft tires both 6 and 10 inch and he laughed and said " i have seen car tires with less material in them" I told him welcome to aviation everything else moves forward we stay in the dark ages. I am not knocking bushwheels any way with this post just stating some facts, bill has done tons to improve things in the aviation world. his hands are tied by the feds.
 
Gander,

Rubber allows give, (unless using Gar-aerro), and cusions the impacts in rough terrain. So by using larger wheels you would limit the size of rocks/holes the plane could pass over without damage I would think.

Race cars, well, off road wheels would be ok, but last time I watched a track race, even street indy cars, there was not many 10" rocks on the road....

And look at how much rubber they have outside of the rims!
 
31-33 inch Airstreak for supercubs is what we need. Something that's soft like the old tires but better quality that wont weather check so bad are quick.
 
run a lower pressure, i am not saying go with a 19 " wheel. Offroad buggys are much heavier and jumping going 100mph over the desert they need more tire pressure. Alot of these style buggys are running spun aluminum wheels that weigh less than our 10 inch aircraft wheels. You cant tell me a 10 or 12 inch wheel on a 35 inch tire would not roll over large obstacles with 3 lbs. of pressure in them. My point was with more wheel you would have a better advantage to lighten the whole unit vs being stuck with more rubber.
 
My build partner and I are using 10" weld mini sprint wheels w/ disk brakes along w/ shaved 4 ply 29" Airhawks. I think we're weighing in around 29-30 lbs. There's alot of neat products in the sprint racing world to cross over to experimental AC.
 
Thread resurrection!
I would support this with my wallet. Too bad the sidewall contacting brakes is an issue. Wish there was a lighter version of wheel-tire combo for the 35’s

I think that what they need to build for us guys that are torn, is a lightweight 33" bushwheel, that will fit on our 6" wheels. I think I would definitely buy a set of those, no matter what my wife said. ABW, can you help us guys out that can't make a decision. PLEESEEEEEEE. :D
 
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I have had a set of 35 inch Bushwheels in the hanger for a few years now and last year picked up a set of the lightweight rims at the trade show. Finally got around to putting them on the cub this week. I have 3 inch gear with 1 1/4 axle the adaptor kit included a inner sleeve that was tight due to the power coat on the stock on. A bit of sanding solved the problem. They bolted on nicely and look great. I had the stock 31 inch tires at 8.5 lbs (easy to push around and with AOSS work fine). So started the the 35's at the same pressure. I gained 4 inches at the spinner tip. Extremely easy to push in and out of hanger. I had to burn in the new rotors and they worked fine. With a few hours of flying I have noticed the following. I needed more nose up trim on climb out. The heavy tire will give an out of balance wobble if it keeps spinning after takeoff. I lost 2-3 mph at 2400 rpm. Take off was about the same but I have not really spent enough time playing with trim and technique. Same for landing. You do notice the drag for spin up when tires touch about the same from going from 26 in good years to 31's so not a big deal. Tire/rim weight difference was only 12.5 per side. This is with 1 1/4 6 bolt rims and Heavy tread 31 in bushwheel. I went up to do some stalls and my usual full nose up trim/full flaps/1600 RPM of 42 MPH was not working (I could not trim all the way back). Same for Base/final turns felt kind of wonky. It could be just me. I will go play some more over the summer and figure them out. Not sure if I will except the speed loss for and landing benefit we will see when hunting season gets into swing.
DENNY
 
.. I needed more nose up trim on climb out. .. I lost 2-3 mph at 2400 rpm... I went up to do some stalls and my usual full nose up trim/full flaps/1600 RPM of 42 MPH was not working (I could not trim all the way back). Same for Base/final turns felt kind of wonky. It could be just me.
DENNY
Easy to explain....Larger diameter down low = more drag. More drag down low = more nose up trim required. More nose up trim = more drag. Full nose up trim + more drag down low = less up elevator effectiveness/authority. Less up elevator authority = higher stall speed, if it actually stalls. The available up elevator force is not strong enough to pitch the nose high enough to achieve the wing's stall angle of attack. Thus a higher indicated stall/mush speed.

Do you really land in areas which need that large of a tire? Must be some really rough stuff.

If you really need/want the big tires, adjust your loading schedule to move the CG aft. Moving the CG aft will require less nose up trim, somewhat counteracting the extra trim drag from the tires.
 
With typical suspension 8# is too much air. For soft or uneven surfaces try 4# and adjust from there. Rolling over soft ground will be easier (less taxi power) and smoother. 35s can soak up big hits with low air pressure. Add gas shocks and you may like running tires a bit harder and suspension softer so you don’t give up the cushion.
 
Easy to explain....Larger diameter down low = more drag. More drag down low = more nose up trim required. More nose up trim = more drag. Full nose up trim + more drag down low = less up elevator effectiveness/authority. Less up elevator authority = higher stall speed, if it actually stalls. The available up elevator force is not strong enough to pitch the nose high enough to achieve the wing's stall angle of attack. Thus a higher indicated stall/mush speed.

Do you really land in areas which need that large of a tire? Must be some really rough stuff.

If you really need/want the big tires, adjust your loading schedule to move the CG aft. Moving the CG aft will require less nose up trim, somewhat counteracting the extra trim drag from the tires.

Adding a note of clarification. A always try to fly with zero stick pressure so I trim for all phase of flight Take off/Climb out/Cruse/Descent/Touchdown. I have lots of elevator authority to stall, I just noticed the trim setting changed a lot in the normal landing setup/prep for stall mode. I have to play with the stall and settings more . I agree and expected the need for more more nose up trim on climb out. The stall/touchdown mode is what is confusing for me. With 31's/full flaps 1600 rpm hands off it would sit right at 41-42 mph mild back pressure would cause a gentle stall at around 38 MPH. Now I am with 35's/full flaps/1600 RPM I still have several turns before I am full nose up trim and already at 41 mph. It is not that the nose won't come up it is that it comes up much easier, if I dial in full nose up trim and go hands off it will stall. I have lots of elevator authority so I can hold it where I want even with more or less power. It might just be me I did have full Left fuel, Right at 3 gal but that did not seem to be an issue in the past. Just trying to dial in that hands off 41 MPH slow flight. I did put my gap seals back in so maybe the stabilizer is just working better. Just need to play with it more. I will keep you posted.

I have been doing fine with the tires I have and could go most places I visit with my old Pacer, so they may not stay on. BUT, I am getting a bit old for Moose and the Caribou spots are getting slim picking. Hunting and long range trips to explore new strips are really the only reason would need a tire that big. I am going to work them for the summer then change back to the 31" to see if I really notice a lot of change. Thanks for your input it is always welcome!!
DENNY
 
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With typical suspension 8# is too much air. For soft or uneven surfaces try 4# and adjust from there. Rolling over soft ground will be easier (less taxi power) and smoother. 35s can soak up big hits with low air pressure. Add gas shocks and you may like running tires a bit harder and suspension softer so you don’t give up the cushion.

I just like them hard for pushing in and out of the hanger. The AOSS really helps soak up the bumps. When I start doing rough stuff testing I will air them down. I carry an air compressor so going soft to get in and pumping them up when you get a good path or need to push it around works.
DENNY
 
I guess most of us are more in tune with rolling resistance away from pavement. Lower pressure is clearly better for that, and braking without skidding is also improved. Even with TK shocks set on the softer side my 35’s are at 6#, and that for a plane that’s heavier than other Cubs. It’s a good compromise for lumpy grass to soft sandy gravel and back. Have fun experimenting.
 
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