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100LL in small gas engines

I have used 100LL in all my mowers, generator and snow equipment. It will probably burn a little hotter but it is cleaner as well. I did use it in my car (79 Dodge Omni) when I was 16 but after replacing the 3rd head gasket I went back to Regular Leaded gas when it was sold then to unleaded. Good luck to ya!!
 
As I understand it, higher octane burns slower. as it is less volatile hence, it is still burning as it goes by the exhaust valve and runs hotter. In a Cesnna-180 I had, I found auto fuel ran coolest, followed by 80 Octane, and hottest with (so-called). The EGT showed substantial differences. In my old pickups, I found hard starting with 100LL. That said, it runs in most everything without a lot of worry.
 
Octane is resistance to detonation.

Reid Vapor Pressure ( RVP ) is how volatility is measured.,

RVP in MO-gas is adjusted by seasons.

Mo-gas is not.
 
Regardless of all this, 100LL killed my Honda 1000. The combustion chamber was not hot enough to scavenge the lead. The lead was all over the piston and exhaust valve, there was no compression.
 
The main people who will object to running 100LL in our small engines are the repair shops. They love to see us coming because they love to charge $100 to clean the varnish out of carbs.
 
Other than the additional cost are there any issues using 100LL in these engines?

Don't use it in a Yamaha EF1000IS generator. The lead coats the inside of the valve guide on the exhaust valve till the exhaust valve can no longer move. This is what's required to get the valve out on a brand new generator after ten hours of use. I have also used 100LL in my Honda EU2000IS for awhile now but not any more.



Jerry
 

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I use it in my Yamaha EF1000IS generator all the time and have for the last 10 years, but I mix TCP and MMO in with the gas. Still runs great.

 
Don't use it in a Yamaha EF1000IS generator. The lead coats the inside of the valve guide on the exhaust valve till the exhaust valve can no longer move. This is what's required to get the valve out on a brand new generator after ten hours of use. I have also used 100LL in my Honda EU2000IS for awhile now but not any more.



Jerry
You are going to have parts left over. It always works that way.
 
Regardless of all this, 100LL killed my Honda 1000. The combustion chamber was not hot enough to scavenge the lead. The lead was all over the piston and exhaust valve, there was no compression.

Winter must be coming - preheat generator ideas and musings are around again!

Old thread, but still interested - I wonder if running the Honda 1000’s at their higher rpm setting (not ECON) would help the engine to burn off more of the lead instead of depositing it...
Anyone with thoughts on the matter?
 
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I never used the economy mode. A 650W heater and two 75W silicone heat pads, pretty much uses up all of the output of the 1000W Honda.
 
A long time ago (mid '60's to later '70's) we used camp and boat generators run on 80/87. Piston aircraft serviced them and extra fuel was always available. Mainly Briggs & Stratton with the occasional Tecumseh engined. They ran at 3600 rpm continuous and the only real issue was spark plug lead or a piece of loose lead under an exhaust valve. Pull the head and wire brush to clean annually. Valves ran well and I don't recall a stuck valve. Sometime in there they switched to 100/130 as IO-520's got popular. The camp genset valve problems started. 100LL was eventually used but with fewer valve or plug problems again (maybe it had more lead scavenger added).

Now with the low speed on demand inverter tech I've had plug fouling with any extended (between oil change)use of 100LL leaded fuel in my small Hondas run at low speed. So yes, I'd run them in non-econ mode for extended use periods with leaded fuel if noise and consumption rates were acceptable. Or, find some TCP or Decalin Runup and add periodically to get minimize deposits.

Gary
 
Maybe it's because we have a lot of jetboats here, but premium unleaded without ethanol is available easily around here. I use that for all small engines and outboards. Absolutely zero problems with fouling or gumming.
 
In most engines today the valve and valve seat metallurgy allows use of unleaded fuels. But it doesn't store as well as 100LL.

Gary
 
I have several classic cars, always use 100LL in them, they run perfectly and the gas does not go bad. Had issues prior with ethanol gas, ate two different fuel lines, no problem since using avgas.
The old cars need and like a bit of lead for the valve guides too, were made for that. Exhaust is nice and grey, gives off slightly different smell, one can immediately tell it is avgas.
Just do not put it in any car with catalytics or O2 sensors, they are gone instantly with the lead.
John
 
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