aero 2800 skis..an
- Thread starter AK-HUNT
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Luke_theDrifter
Registered User
Dillingham, Alaska
I found a nice set of the old original Federal skis a few years ago and have been using them. It is my understanding that Aero bought out Federal ski,.... they are very similar.
The biggest difference between the modern Areo ski and the older Federal ski is the tunnel/tower width; Federal skis are more heavy duty. Tunnel is wider and longer on the federal's, areo made the newer ones lighter duty....but wider bottoms, which is probably the best deep powder straight ski on the market.
On glarce ice, re-froze overflow, ice ridges and rough stuff the aero ski will not hold up to serious usage, however excellent powder ski.
At any rate, I'm running the 2,500's, which I'm sure are similar to the 2,800.
Some features that I like include they are shorter than Landis skis so you can turn much easier and much sharper....as far as ski turning goes. Lighter than Landis or Dodge skis, easy to fasten the UHMW to bottom, plus they are "banana" shaped front-to-back, and have a convex bottom side-to-side which give great direction control in the power, or hard pack, before the skeg digs in on glare ice. The tower height (axle height off the ground) is as high, or higher, than other skis which puts the plane at an excellent angle....similar to big tires.
Only real draw-back, or learning curve, that I've experinced is getting used to them in DEEP powder. If you're used to running a longer ski and then swtich to these shorter ones, it take a little practice to find the best technique for getting on step in really deep fluff. Because they are so short you kinda have to get on step, just like foats, (pop the flaps hard) in the really deep stuff and then lift one ski off and then the other to get maximum short field take off distance. When working in a tight area you can circle fairly sharp, cause they're short and turn nice, and then carry your mometum forward on your take-off roll.... I can take off much shorter with them versus any other straight ski that I've used.
I can tell you from experince, if you have a strong engine w/ a good prop that will pull hard,....... when you're belly deep, fuselage sitting on belly, rudder is plowing a row, ...and... you have enough room, you can throttle into it and pull the plane out the hole and the skis WILL get the plane back up, on step, and build speed... and take off. No other ski that I've ever used will do that. Prop will chop, chop, chop along when you first get going (snow flying everywhere), and amazingly it don't really hurt it!
The biggest difference between the modern Areo ski and the older Federal ski is the tunnel/tower width; Federal skis are more heavy duty. Tunnel is wider and longer on the federal's, areo made the newer ones lighter duty....but wider bottoms, which is probably the best deep powder straight ski on the market.
On glarce ice, re-froze overflow, ice ridges and rough stuff the aero ski will not hold up to serious usage, however excellent powder ski.
At any rate, I'm running the 2,500's, which I'm sure are similar to the 2,800.
Some features that I like include they are shorter than Landis skis so you can turn much easier and much sharper....as far as ski turning goes. Lighter than Landis or Dodge skis, easy to fasten the UHMW to bottom, plus they are "banana" shaped front-to-back, and have a convex bottom side-to-side which give great direction control in the power, or hard pack, before the skeg digs in on glare ice. The tower height (axle height off the ground) is as high, or higher, than other skis which puts the plane at an excellent angle....similar to big tires.
Only real draw-back, or learning curve, that I've experinced is getting used to them in DEEP powder. If you're used to running a longer ski and then swtich to these shorter ones, it take a little practice to find the best technique for getting on step in really deep fluff. Because they are so short you kinda have to get on step, just like foats, (pop the flaps hard) in the really deep stuff and then lift one ski off and then the other to get maximum short field take off distance. When working in a tight area you can circle fairly sharp, cause they're short and turn nice, and then carry your mometum forward on your take-off roll.... I can take off much shorter with them versus any other straight ski that I've used.
I can tell you from experince, if you have a strong engine w/ a good prop that will pull hard,....... when you're belly deep, fuselage sitting on belly, rudder is plowing a row, ...and... you have enough room, you can throttle into it and pull the plane out the hole and the skis WILL get the plane back up, on step, and build speed... and take off. No other ski that I've ever used will do that. Prop will chop, chop, chop along when you first get going (snow flying everywhere), and amazingly it don't really hurt it!
aktango58
FRIEND
18AA
flew them on the champ and pa-12.
Better than penetration, glide good, steer well, easy to install, in comparison.
Strait skis are better for performance, but hey, I live in southeast, leave at 35 degrees, land at 0.
If buying used get fittings with the lower settings.
Parts are very reasonable from Aerro, and helpful guys. Call them about anything, and they are willing to assist.
George
Better than penetration, glide good, steer well, easy to install, in comparison.
Strait skis are better for performance, but hey, I live in southeast, leave at 35 degrees, land at 0.
If buying used get fittings with the lower settings.
Parts are very reasonable from Aerro, and helpful guys. Call them about anything, and they are willing to assist.
George
Luke_theDrifter
Registered User
Dillingham, Alaska
ak-hunt...I had my mind on straight skis because you didn't say "wheel skis", but still, my mistake.
I am familar with the cable operated "retractable" skis, if these are the ones you're talking about.... good luck
I am familar with the cable operated "retractable" skis, if these are the ones you're talking about.... good luck
Matt 7GCBC
Registered User
Northwest
The newer fittings have longer brackets with lower settings for the ski. The ski goes to a lower level and the wheel ceases to penetrate. On the older model, there was always a bit of the wheel sticking through for "safety", but found to be safer if you could get off the ground before hitting the trees.
I am buying a used set of the 2800s as well and have found the Aeroski company to be more helpful than could be imagined. I called and told them I needed to purchase some parts that had broken on these used skis and also asked to purchase an STC as the 2800s aren't on the citabria TC. They told me that the parts shouldn't break and sent them to me free and sent me a copy of the STC - free. This after I reminded them that I had purchased these used and I really should be paying them. They insisted that the part still shouldn't be broken and refused to take payment. Also had spent time answering my questions. Great people.
I am buying a used set of the 2800s as well and have found the Aeroski company to be more helpful than could be imagined. I called and told them I needed to purchase some parts that had broken on these used skis and also asked to purchase an STC as the 2800s aren't on the citabria TC. They told me that the parts shouldn't break and sent them to me free and sent me a copy of the STC - free. This after I reminded them that I had purchased these used and I really should be paying them. They insisted that the part still shouldn't be broken and refused to take payment. Also had spent time answering my questions. Great people.
Matt 7GCBC
Registered User
Northwest
I should add that the broken part was the bogey wheel and bracket which the seller acknowledged was due to him making pivoting turns on pavement.
Yes, those guys at Aero are great. Just a couple good old farm boys. I have been to there facility twice. Its just a small little hanger on a little strip in Brooten, MN. If you blink in Brooten you'll drive right through the town and never even notice it. I have flown those skis on a Super Cub. Like any wheel ski they are a compermise. The deepest snow I have had them in is about 3'-4' and they did great, not as good as straight skis but still real good. New they are about half the cost of a used set of hydraulic skis. Installation is pretty easy. I have sold three pairs of them to local guys and they have been happy with them. But like any wheel ski they will never be as light as stright skis and never perform as good as straight skis. The biggest draw back to them is you have to run 6.00x6 tires.
Shawn
Shawn
mvivion
SPONSOR
Bozeman,MT
We ran one Cub on a set of these part of one winter. It was perpetually stuck. I rescued them twice. Removed them and put on straight skis.
That said, that was with the old style rigging, and the wheels stuck down through the skis a ways. I have been told by somewhat reliable sources that the newer rigging works much better.
Remember, these are one way skis. Once you lower them with the cockpit control, you have to manually retract them. At least I think that's the way it went. Point is, you lower the skis by releasing the spring loaded catches, the skis go down. You land, pack down a strip, use a bar to reset the skis to the up position, then take off with the wheels down. Or else, you take off with the skis in the down position, and find a ski strip or hard pack you can land on, and cam the skis back up then take off with skis up.
They are a compromise, for sure, but the weight is about half what a set of hydraulic skis are, the price is less than half a set of hydraulic skis. For occasional forays into not too deep snow, and basing off bare runways, they should work fine.
MTV
That said, that was with the old style rigging, and the wheels stuck down through the skis a ways. I have been told by somewhat reliable sources that the newer rigging works much better.
Remember, these are one way skis. Once you lower them with the cockpit control, you have to manually retract them. At least I think that's the way it went. Point is, you lower the skis by releasing the spring loaded catches, the skis go down. You land, pack down a strip, use a bar to reset the skis to the up position, then take off with the wheels down. Or else, you take off with the skis in the down position, and find a ski strip or hard pack you can land on, and cam the skis back up then take off with skis up.
They are a compromise, for sure, but the weight is about half what a set of hydraulic skis are, the price is less than half a set of hydraulic skis. For occasional forays into not too deep snow, and basing off bare runways, they should work fine.
MTV
Dave Calkins
Registered User
Anchorage, Alaska
They spring to "ski up/wheel down" when you pull the release. You take off the snow with the wheel up and then pull the release to land on gravel/pavement. Landing on snow with wheels is no problem, just lever the ski back down for snow takeoff and then select wheels for going back to pavement.
They're relatively light weight.
Negatives:
little bitty tires only.
the release cables provided are farm junk and need to be upgraded to a smoother system.
the UHMWPE bottoms need to be widened and also need to fill in the 'fork tail' area at the back.
I've got a customer's set that will be getting the last two negatives above fixed before they go on his A-1B. He was stuck alot with them last winter and he don't like being stuck no more.
They're relatively light weight.
Negatives:
little bitty tires only.
the release cables provided are farm junk and need to be upgraded to a smoother system.
the UHMWPE bottoms need to be widened and also need to fill in the 'fork tail' area at the back.
I've got a customer's set that will be getting the last two negatives above fixed before they go on his A-1B. He was stuck alot with them last winter and he don't like being stuck no more.
