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oil screen vs. spin on

That is why the corner of the brass nut are all FUBAR.

My nuts are just fine. I can't get my Snap on on the square but if I use the adjustable with it open a little bigger then the nut I can get it on the nut and then tighten the wrench before turning it. Basin wrench was the only thing I could get to work on my Pa11 for the smooth tach cable nut. You must have little hands.

Glenn
 
Mine has a filter on it already and installed almost upside down. It was a mess to change. A friend showed me how to use a gallon zip loc bag over the filter to catch the oil. You get the filter just loose, put the bag over it with as much as possible hanging underneath the filter and unscrew the filter. The oil goes right into the bag and when you are done the filter is in there too. Hard to explain but it really saved on shop towels and a mess. Perhaps this is a common trick but it was new to me.
 
I use the screen for my cub as well. Pull it out every 25 hours and clean it. New gasket and clean housing inside and out and put it back in. Being careful not to over tighten the four housing bolts so that I don't crack it. I also remove the screen from the bottom of the pan and clean it and reinstall with a new gasket. Takes a little time and a couple of gaskets new 20/50 oil and some cam lube and Im good to go. My oil presure is alway right up there at the top of the green arc when at crusing speed. Works good for me. Once I finished and went to put my solvent pan and rags away, guess what there sits my clean oil screen on the work bench next to the solvent pan. Forgot to put it in
 
Thanks for the advice on tools guys. Will find one that works.


I'm a Screen guy too.... and I never remove temp bulb, except for engine swap..

So, you leave the temp bulb in the screen housing as you pull it out?

Let me back up. Assuming I get the right tools to work in that cramped little space back there, what's the steps to do this right for the small continentals? In other words, there's 3 nuts back there. For simplicity, call them small (bulb), medium (adaptor) and large (screen "nut"). What's the order to turn these things? Thanks.
 
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has anyone mentioned the oil filter punch trick?
warm the engine.
lift the rear of the cowl.
punch (don't drill) an airhole in the uppermost part.
in ten minutes or so the captive oil drains into the sump.
 
Thanks for the advice on tools guys. Will find one that works.




So, you leave the temp bulb in the screen housing as you pull it out?

Let me back up. Assuming I get the right tools to work in that cramped little space back there, what's the steps to do this right for the small continentals? In other words, there's 3 nuts back there. For simplicity, call them small (bulb), medium (adaptor) and large (screen "nut"). What's the order to turn these things? Thanks.

Do you have the little cooling shroud also? I think you fly a Pa11, the 11 has no room at all between the firewall and the case. Be VERY careful that you don't bend the capillary tube when you pull the bulb out.

Glenn
 
Do you have the little cooling shroud also? I think you fly a Pa11, the 11 has no room at all between the firewall and the case. Be VERY careful that you don't bend the capillary tube when you pull the bulb out.

Glenn

Yep Glenn, it's an -11 and it is tight. Hence my desire to have the right tool and the right steps.

By the way, I'll be up in Cooperstown in the -11 for a weekend in early May. Love to go flying and see a little local flavor.
 
We seen no difference between metal fine screen vs. paper filters running well above TBO in (4) cylinder Lycoming engines. Even with 50+ hour oil changes. Opinion, spin on is a waste of time and money. Fly a lot and spend on gas instead.
 
Thanks for the advice on tools guys. Will find one that works.




So, you leave the temp bulb in the screen housing as you pull it out?

Let me back up. Assuming I get the right tools to work in that cramped little space back there, what's the steps to do this right for the small continentals? In other words, there's 3 nuts back there. For simplicity, call them small (bulb), medium (adaptor) and large (screen "nut"). What's the order to turn these things? Thanks.

never mind, I was thinking lycoming...
 
I use a flared tubing wrench on the oil temp bulb nut since it is soft brass. Remove it first or it will twist off and the freon will ecape and no more oil temp. Once the temp bulb is removed I use a large custom wrench to remove the oil screen. Have a clean Folgers can handy to catch it and any contaminants that may fall out. Safety wiring the screen to the oil pressure relief valve acorn nut is a real treat. After you have done all of this once you will appreciate how easy it is to install the oil filter adapter in place of the 3 nut bypass pad on the left side of your engine.

Yes Joe, I poke a hole in the filter canister too. Makes it a bit less messy.
 
I use a flared tubing wrench on the oil temp bulb nut since it is soft brass. Remove it first or it will twist off and the freon will ecape and no more oil temp. Once the temp bulb is removed I use a large custom wrench to remove the oil screen. Have a clean Folgers can handy to catch it and any contaminants that may fall out. Safety wiring the screen to the oil pressure relief valve acorn nut is a real treat. After you have done all of this once you will appreciate how easy it is to install the oil filter adapter in place of the 3 nut bypass pad on the left side of your engine.

Yes Joe, I poke a hole in the filter canister too. Makes it a bit less messy.

Thanks Steve!
 
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