Yes, another Javron cub

[skywagon8a]

Specifically those large clamps should be snug but not so tight they can't slide on the pipe. We're looking for support, not rigidity. When they are bolted so tight they can't move at all, the expansion and shaking of the heated exhaust pipe can cause breakage of the fitting which is holding the clamp. I'm not saying it will break, but it could break. If it's allowed to slip, the chances of breakage are lessened while it is still doing it's job. I've seen too many examples of exhaust pipe and support breakage over the years to ignore these little things. Sometimes it is a head scratcher as to why it broke there.

 

[stoldriver]

I also am running two cabin heat boxes coming off the two exhaust muffs and a forward half muff for carb heat. I won't have the heat on most of the time here in AZ but I do run north at 10k fairly often and I hope that heat works for me. I like the idea of beading or flairing those tubes. Seems simple and effective. I'm trying the exhaust with the pipes split as far as I can to open up a fairly large area for air exit and I'll put a lip on it too. I'm trying to really focus on cooling, for obvious reasons and I'll probably find a few things I need to change along the way. Hopefully not too major.
Wayne

 

[rv6ator]

I have the Vetterman exhaust on my Javron. I installed front heat from one muffler and an additional air box to draw heat from the second muffler for rear heat. I can fly at 0 F in just a sweat shirt and be comfortable. I have no problems with CHTs. I typically run 350 to 375 in the summer here in Minnesota. I really like my Vetterman. I wish I could put it on my certified PA18.

Same setup on my Javron, dual muffler and heat muffs. Toasty warm at 0°F

 

[Bill Rusk]

I am glad to hear good reports of the Vetterman/Busenitz exhaust. They have a good reputation and from my limited experience produce a quality product. Obviously from my previous post it did not work well for me, but that does not necessarily mean it won't work for someone else. I am running the Sutton exhaust and am pleased with it. I do like the look of the Vetterman system better than the elephant snout of the Sutton, but the Sutton really cranks out the heat. YMMV, IMHO and all that.

Bill

 

[rv6ator]

Spend a little extra time sealing up doors/windows/ rear seat etc:, makes a huge difference.

 

[stoldriver]

Well, I'm still working on it and I've blown pretty much every estimate of how long I thought it would take. Eventually got most of the engine area planned out so pulled the engine and the gear and covered the fuselage. I have one issue with my b&c alternator which doesn't seem to fit. It contacts the oil filter adaptor before it seats on the pad. Jay puts the same alternator on the same engine and it seems to work. I got my engine straight from Titan so I suspect there is some difference. I also still need to figure out my cooler config.

Everything is covered and silver coated. I'm frantically trying to get the major portion of painting done since the temps will be too warm inside of a month. Mornings are still OK, even most afternoons but that will soon change. So far, the tail feathers and the fuselage are painted. It is a massive task. Here's the basics. First, put the fabric on, stitch. tape and reinforce, and get all the shrinking done. Then paint all the exposed fabric with diluted glue to seal the weave. Next, silver coat and you don't want to wait too long since the glue is tacky and will collect dust. Three cross coats of silver, sanding after each coat. Then, because I'm mostly yellow, a fog coat of white primer and then enough to make it pretty evenly white, sanding after each coat, of course. Then yellow in four coats waiting only long enough to tack and starting very light adding a heavier coat each time. So far, it's turning out acceptable and is about a 10 - 15 ft paint job. I have only a few runs. Here are the stages in photos. Cleanup takes a couple of hours. The silver and the white primer are easy-peasy but the two part epoxy is a bear to get off my gun and I often have to resort to a solvent other than water. .

As soon as the painting is to an acceptable point, I will start final assembly from the tail moving forward. A lot of the tail and under the floor was already done before I covered it.

Wayne

 

[rv6ator]

I have had good luck with the oil cooler mounted on the rear baffle behind #4. Installed a shutter as the oil temp runs quite cool. If you go that route you need to really beef up the baffle to support the extra weight.

 

[Mr. Ed]

You’re doing well. I’m into it 7 years…Javron wings but everything else is scratch built. Are you using Stewart’s paint? I did. My tail feathers and fuselage came out nice enough. I used the same gun settings on the wings, ailerons and flaps and could not get a consistent finish. Very frustrating. I thought maybe my paint was too old so bought more. Same result.

You’ll get there, keep plugging away.

 

[stoldriver]

Yes, I'm using Stewart's all the way thru. My paint is about a year old or so. I'm definitely no expert so can't give any advice. I could but it wouldn't be worth much. I can tell you, though, that it really sticks to skin. I have some yellow skin and it's been there for days. Tried acetone and it still survived. I didn't feel like going with mek. As for oil coolers, I was wondering why people always put it on the left rear baffle. The right rear baffle is further forward so seems like it would have more room. Must be a reason since I have never seen one on the right rear baffle. I was thinking I might put it horizontal on the right side behind the engine with a large hose feeding it air from the right rear baffle.

Wayne

 

[skywagon8a]

As for oil coolers, I was wondering why people always put it on the left rear baffle. The right rear baffle is further forward so seems like it would have more room. Must be a reason since I have never seen one on the right rear baffle.

Wayne

The oil dip stick is in the way.

 

[Mr. Ed]

I put mine on the firewall with a hose from the left baffle behind #4. I made a carbon fiber plenum that bolts to the face of the cooler. If I was to do it again I would mount it right to the baffle behind #4.