Well, its started, the experiment

[RVBottomly]

Would anyone here know if there is a tool for bending the u channel for the gingerbread and overhead turtle deck?

The turtle deck channels are straight with angles, right? I'd take a piece of channel, cut a notch at the bend corners and then bent them to the proper angle and tack welded them.

A few places I just welded shorter pieces together.

For the channel on the cockpit top, I made a very homely channel bender. This post toward the bottom shows it. https://www.supercub.org/forum/showthread.php?53240-Therapy-Project&p=808766&viewfull=1#post808766

I really should have used three pulleys, but only had two at the time. The third point is a bushing over a bolt. But it worked for the gentle bends involved.

Others have done much nicer ones. Basically three pulleys set so that the channel passes through them with a bit of tension to stretch the material.

As for the bottom channels, I've seen them fluted. Others might have better ideas.

 

[Gordon Misch]

I made a plywood form to match the inner ribs, then hammer-formed the channels. Fine tuned with the wings in place and straight edge between inner ribs and over the fuselage, then tacked the formers into place. It was tedious, but worked fine.

 

[chugach3dcomp]

Well works been busy but finally got around to making a prototype for a u channel bender. 3d printed it now just need to give it a try!!!

 

[RVBottomly]

Well works been busy but finally got around to making a prototype for a u channel bender. 3d printed it now just need to give it a try!!!View attachment 58174

That is pretty cool. I realize now I'm in the tool-maker stone age.

 

[CharlieN]

I can not really see in that image, are your wheels male & female. The ones I have built and work with all have some overlap between one set of M & F to support the flange to reduce the chance of buckling. I also do not see any adjustment for setting the radius you are working to achieve?

 

[chugach3dcomp]

the handle on the right side turns and brings the wheel in or out.

the two outer wheels are set to the outer diameter of the u Chanel and the middle wheel is set to the inner diameter.

I can not really see in that image, are your wheels male & female. The ones I have built and work with all have some overlap between one set of M & F to support the flange to reduce the chance of buckling. I also do not see any adjustment for setting the radius you are working to achieve?

 

[chugach3dcomp]

 

[Steve Pierce]

Nice, here is mine.

 

[chugach3dcomp]

thats awesome, do you think it’s better to have the center wheel as the movement wheel. I may have to redesign mine.

Nice, here is mine.
View attachment 58177

 

[frequent_flyer]

thats awesome, do you think it’s better to have the center wheel as the movement wheel. I may have to redesign mine.

Looks to me like the screw is push only and moves a carriage holding the two outer wheels. I've been wrong before though!

 

[Steve Pierce]

On mine the screw moves the two aft wheels in or out of the front wheel. You put a little tension on the wheels and slide the channel back and forth a few times, adjust and back and forth. Doesn't take long to get a feel for it. Gave made the wing root ginger bread, boot cowl channels and a Fokker rudder out of 3/8" round tubing.

 

[hotrod180]

Nice, here is mine.
View attachment 58177

THat's an impressive looking piece of equipment.
Is that store bought or home made?
If home made, its doubly impressive.

 

[Steve Pierce]

I have a good friend with a machine shop.

 

[chugach3dcomp]

So the roller for the u channel worked great!! Before I weld these in I’m placing floating lock plates in for a multi piece boot cowl. I have a drill jig for making the holes but have found that there’s little to no space in the channel for the lock plates so if your off center a tad then it doesn’t work. So to remedy this I 3d printed up jigs to keep the holes centered while drilling, these where simple and very cost effective.

 

[chugach3dcomp]

Well been making some progress lately, almost done, have to finish up fabricating the doors, electric trim and tabs, custom fitting my chair then off to powder coat!!!

 

[akavidflyer]

This is the best Cub and Maule door seal I've found. No leaks. I keep it in stock at the shop and in the hangar. https://content.assaabloyusa.com/doc/AADSS1052261&.pdf

I ordered 4 rolls for current and future use. First time I have ever had the sea plane doors on the pacer actually sealed up and not having a hurricane blowing on my ear! Gave a roll to my A&P. I have a feeling we will be seeing it show up on a lot of future builds they do.

 

[jrussl]

This is the best Cub and Maule door seal I've found. No leaks. I keep it in stock at the shop and in the hangar. https://content.assaabloyusa.com/doc/AADSS1052261&.pdf

Thanks Stewart! This looks like a really good seal. I just ordered some. Ski flying season is almost upon us and it's time to get the cabin better sealed up.

Jeff

 

[stewartb]

Well been making some progress lately, almost done, have to finish up fabricating the doors, electric trim and tabs, custom fitting my chair then off to powder coat!!! View attachment 58480

Are you using a linear actuator or a motor to spin a conventional jackscrew?

 

[DENNY]

I would build your floor, interior panels, and rear seat before you power coat. Make sure all you baggage doors hinges have something to screw into other than the tubes. I found some aluminum hinge with 2 in sides that will cross a tube I can cut down the door side, let me know if you need some. Did you remember tabs for the ELT/battery/antenna/grounds. Consider weld nuts on the seat belt tabs. The fuselage will flex when you hang a motor/prop on the front. If possible hang motor or box of weight off the front when you build the door or build it kind of loose. That front weight also helps when doing the boot cowl. Just things to think about. DENNY

 

[CharlieN]

I ordered 4 rolls for current and future use. First time I have ever had the sea plane doors on the pacer actually sealed up and not having a hurricane blowing on my ear! Gave a roll to my A&P. I have a feeling we will be seeing it show up on a lot of future builds they do.

I stumbled onto that seal a month ago and was thinking it would be better than corner seal, Glad to see someone else finds it to be the right thing, guess I will go with it.

 

[stewartb]

I ordered 4 rolls for current and future use. First time I have ever had the sea plane doors on the pacer actually sealed up and not having a hurricane blowing on my ear! Gave a roll to my A&P. I have a feeling we will be seeing it show up on a lot of future builds they do.

I placed mine on the door frames. The long leaf is showing wear at the sill from my butt dragging on it getting in and out. Even with chunks missing it’s still perfectly effective.

 

[akavidflyer]

I placed mine on the door frames. The long leaf is showing wear at the sill from my butt dragging on it getting in and out. Even with chunks missing it’s still perfectly effective.

Did you use the self adhesive on it or did you use another glue to install it? I only have 1 flight on mine so far with these seals. I just used the wipe that came with the seal and then stuck them on with the self adhesive.

 

[stewartb]

I’ve sold a thousand miles of Pemko self-stick and if the surface is clean, it sticks. Mine’s holding like the day I stuck it on.

 

[akavidflyer]

Cool, thank you! I will be ordering more for various projects!

 

[chugach3dcomp]

Are you using a linear actuator or a motor to spin a conventional jackscrew?

I believe that its jus a motor, I just received the kit from Javron and have yet to look at it

 

[chugach3dcomp]

I would build your floor, interior panels, and rear seat before you power coat. Make sure all you baggage doors hinges have something to screw into other than the tubes. I found some aluminum hinge with 2 in sides that will cross a tube I can cut down the door side, let me know if you need some. Did you remember tabs for the ELT/battery/antenna/grounds. Consider weld nuts on the seat belt tabs. The fuselage will flex when you hang a motor/prop on the front. If possible hang motor or box of weight off the front when you build the door or build it kind of loose. That front weight also helps when doing the boot cowl. Just things to think about. DENNY

Thats a good point about the weight of a motor changing how the door fits, did not think of that(i just finished the doors lol). Unfortuantly Im currently rebuilding the motor so hanging that isn't an option. Might have to fab a chair mount and have my buddy sit up there.

My next thing on the list is to complete fitment of all panels and grounding tabs.

What type of nuts would you use to weld to the seat belt tabs?

 

[DENNY]

Call Gabe at Airframes and see what they use I think it is just a high temp nut. I had my motor off for a cam replacement and while it was off converted the boot cowl into a 3 piece. When I put the motor back on the lower holes did not quite line up. A simple re-drill of the lower holes solved the problem but better to avoid it from the start. Did you figure out how to do baggage door hinges without drilling into tubes? DENNY

 

[stewartb]

FWIW, the weight of the motor doesn’t change how my door fits. My left side window is top hinged and it doesn’t change, either.

Hopefully you added seat belt tabs to the airframe. I wouldn’t spend any time welding nuts to the tabs but if that’s a detail you care about? Go for it. You’ll soon discover that all holes that receive rivets, pins, or bolts will need to be reamed to remove powder coating. Tabs, strut fittings, gear fittings… all of them.

 

[stewartb]

I believe that its jus a motor, I just received the kit from Javron and have yet to look at it

Probably a motor to operate the jackscrew like Bill Rusk’s. That’s not a bad way to go. I’d like to find a way to do it on a Skywagon.

 

[stewartb]

Looking back at my projects the worst “miss” was not adding provisions for cargo tie-downs in the baggage area in my old -12 prior to powder coat. Lesson learned. I have Ancra plates on added structure in my Cub. Consider what you’ll carry and add hard points for securing your loads.