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Tractor Baffle

FatCub300

FRIEND
I have about 20 Tractor baffles, left over in a box from when they were previously made. if anyone is interested...feel free to contact me. They help with cooling the Husky. They include the piece of aluminum and black baffle material.


Steve.
 
I've made them for a few experimental Cubs and installed customer supplied ones on Huskys. They all helped CHT's and oil temps a bunch. After I saw how much they helped on my personal Husky with oil temp and cylinder #3 CHT, I put them on all the airplanes we built or restored. In my experience, it allows you to maximize the upper deck vs lower deck pressures to a more optimal amount- especially with the less than ideal Super Cub cowling. On my clipwing T it allowed me to get about a 20 degree total CHT split on all 4 cylinders. (Fuel injection and X over exhaust)

I'll take a few pics of the one I built for my Javron tomorrow.
 
It is just a bent, water jet piece of sheet metal. Fits behind the ring gear and blocks air from going where it shouldn’t.
Built them for Husky a few years back.
Have a few left with a nice rubber baffle

They help cooling a bit.

Steve
 
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I'm sorry to let all know, that I have no more Husky Baffles and don't plan make additional.

They were simply a piece 6061 T4, .050 thick and made a small fitted baffle that followed the front of the engine case closely, about 3 inches behind the propeller flange, with forward bent flanges, that matched the inner surface of the top of the cowling, closing out a small area behind the ring gear. . we used a rubber gasket on the baffle to stop air flowing over the top of the engine case, and spilling down or into low pressure areas from prop swirl , forcing a bit of otherwise lost air, aft and over the cylinders. It made a 20-30 degree reduction in temp on most Husky's who used it. They were simple water jet periphery with a few bends, anyone could make.

Sorry, no pictures, it was pretty well documented on the Husky forum by several who installed it, but no more. It could be a pain in the butt, due to different constant speed governors and differing cable routings, but most reports were that it did help.

On my Husky, between the Baffle itself and adding a couple spacers behind my left rear cylinders, I was able to get the temp differential down to about 20 degrees in most power conditions.

Steve
 
Scott, trying to make my own, tractor baffle using AirForms Lyc 360 baffle kit. I noticed that your baffles has ramps up to the middle of the cylinders where mine has only small baffles in front of the front Cylinders. All cylinder head temps below 400, except #2/ Oil temp is high, around 220. Did you make these baffles? I called Airforms and they said for the 180 supercub you do not need front ramps unless you are flying in very cold weather. I am using the carbon fiber cowl that I purchased. It also appears your air intakes on the cowl are much lower than mine.
I have a Titan engine and since they shave the barrel fins, I am also trying to put a wedge in there to compensate.
Trying to fit the tractor baffle around the front of the engine is going slow, and you can not make two of them as of course they are different.
Any way just wondering the difference is the Airforms and what you have pictured.
Thanks
 

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Ramps on an IO-360B. The temps run around 380 and oil about 180. Make certain to fill in the gap formed by the tapered fins. Open spaces means reduced cooling.

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Thanks, there is a big difference between the two baffle systems. As I mentioned Airforms say this is correct and the higher ramps only if in extreme cold weather. They sell a lot of these, would think someone else would question this. The rest of the baffle system is built to a high standard, just different than all the others I see. Will do the ramps as you have done and see if it helps. Last time I flew, outside airtemp was 85, #2 Cylinder got up to 420 and oil temp red lined, had to point the nose way down to get the oil back down to about 230.
Thanks Again
 
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