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Suggestions on how to locate an o-320 160hp?

From the STC's I have seen the O-320 STC requires the tubes and the bigger bolts in the cabane V. I have no experience with a gross weight increase STC that ups the gross weight while retaining the O-290-D2.
 
Engine change to o-320 is optional on a “-135” per STC
 

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Damn, if your cub does weigh 1017 and is pretty fresh, it’d be a ripper with 160hp. From other posts, I guess a 320 is only 20 or so lbs heavier than a 290? You’d bet that back with a GA Sensenich.

Remind me, are you on 8.00s or 8.50s? Your weight is pretty light with an electrical system and any creature comforts.
 
KevinJ said:
Damn, if your cub does weigh 1017 and is pretty fresh, it’d be a ripper with 160hp. From other posts, I guess a 320 is only 20 or so lbs heavier than a 290? You’d bet that back with a GA Sensenich.

Remind me, are you on 8.00s or 8.50s? Your weight is pretty light with an electrical system and any creature comforts.
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It has an electrical system. 8.50s.

Its a 1950 which I think had 13 ribs while later models had 16. I think the 1950 pa-18 was basically a pa-11 with flaps. Serial number 360.

Full disclosure: i never scaled the thing myself. I bought it with 20 hrs from the guy who rebuilt it from the ground up. I have no reason to believe he would fib on the weight- didnt seem like that kind of guy- and the IA who signed off I think is pretty reputable.
 
I think the first PA-18s came without flaps. Re-designed fuselage was the big change, getting those spars away from your head. A 160 makes it a screamer! It is a nice airplane with the 90 Cont. Not real heavy.
 
Steve Pierce said:
That looks like a 1/4" bolt in the cabane V, not a 5/16". I would check to verify. Do you have the old battery access cover on the back of the fuselage just aft of the wing root? If so I would look in there and see if there are three 3/8" tubes from the bottom longerons to the top longerons and one between the top longerons. Search this site and there should be pictures.
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I would think so, doesn’t the atlee extended baggage hook onto that 3/8” tube?
 
KevinJ said:
Damn, if your cub does weigh 1017 and is pretty fresh, it’d be a ripper with 160hp. From other posts, I guess a 320 is only 20 or so lbs heavier than a 290? You’d bet that back with a GA Sensenich.

Remind me, are you on 8.00s or 8.50s? Your weight is pretty light with an electrical system and any creature comforts.
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I actually dont think there is any weight gain from an o290d2 to o320 based on my research I did a while back- or if there was it was negligible
 
I was wrong. Copied from short wing piper site:

“
According to the Lycoming Operator's Manual for the O-290 and O320 series engines the following weights apply. These weights include everything but the exhaust, which is the same for all of the Lycoming engine insallations in the Short Wings. These weights are as of March of 1973 so I assume they are for narrow deck O-320's
O-290-D 260 lbs.
O-290-D2A 264
O-290-D2B 265
O-320-A1A 272 150 hp
O-320-B2B 278 160”

So looks like somewhere between 8 and 14 lbs
 
Just like humans, airplanes have a tendency to gain weight as they age. The good airplane rebuild sheds that weight a lot easier than the strict diets we must suffer.
 
If they calculated the weight I would be very suspect because Piper seemed to fib from looking at Super Cubs I have weighed. The O-290 can run a thinner, lighter prop which is a pretty good weight difference but comes with an AD. If you have the 74DM you can use it on the O-320.

As far as the tubes and the Atlee Dodge baggage, trust but verify. I have seen some interesting mods to get the job done. Easy to look and see and also easy to stick a wrench on the cabane V bolts. Sorry but I have worked on way too many airplanes and found way too many discrepancies between paperwork and the airplane.
 
Steve Pierce said:
If they calculated the weight I would be very suspect because Piper seemed to fib from looking at Super Cubs I have weighed. The O-290 can run a thinner, lighter prop which is a pretty good weight difference but comes with an AD. If you have the 74DM you can use it on the O-320.

As far as the tubes and the Atlee Dodge baggage, trust but verify. I have seen some interesting mods to get the job done. Easy to look and see and also easy to stick a wrench on the cabane V bolts. Sorry but I have worked on way too many airplanes and found way too many discrepancies between paperwork and the airplane.
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It wasnt calculated. It was scaled. Could you even calculate a rebuild? Seems like that wouldn't work- it was taken down to the frame.
 
I am with Steve - on older Champs and Cubs it seems like somebody had a thumb on the scales.
If I can, I usually find a way to legally compute from factory weight. That way, the owner has a two place airplane.

We have a Super Cub in the system with the weigh-in stated on a 337. Four hundred lb. useful load. Every flight is thus overweight. The old 7AC seems to be the worst.
 
The tubes appear to be there and the bolts are there. Am I looking at this right? Why does the drawing say ream to 5/16 but then show 3/8 inch diameter?

IMG_20211026_135454.webp
STC SA292AL 06 resized.jpg
 
skywagon8a said:
Do you have reason to think it may not be good? Once the engine is taken apart, it's not worth as much as a core.
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How much less? I thought it would be worth more knowing your getting a good crank. I have no reason not to believe its good but you never know.
 
I had a 65 Cont that I wanted to sell for a grand - no takers. Disassembled, and found a standard C-85 crank in there. I could now sell the crank for $2500 and toss the engine in the recycling.

I admit - after that I gave another 65 assembled to a nice kid building a Flybaby. Worthless, assembled.
 
Not trading it in to the factory. Selling it to an individual for rebuild. So how much of a deduct would it be selling it with a certified crank that complies with the SBs and ADs for a 160 hp?
 
I tore a 160 hp down for cam and tappets recently and found a .025" groove that the crank seat had cut into the crank. No legal fix except an $8,800 new crankshaft. Look at what they charge to certify a crank these days, I measure them cause they always want to turn them even when they are still within limits. It is a crap shoot and worth at least $6k if not more.
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kase said:
How much less? I thought it would be worth more knowing your getting a good crank. I have no reason not to believe its good but you never know.
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I agree Kase........ my O-320 has 2300 hrs. A few years ago I bought a -b2b off a Citabria prop strike for a replacement when the time comes. Tore it down and sent all parts to Central Cylinder........then bought 4 new Millenium cylinders.
Engine is in my shop still apart and preserved. No matter if I assemble it or not.......any buyer will know what they are getting. I think that is a plus.
 
I am with Steve on this - send a part out, and it gets machined no matter what. You can only do that twice on a crankshaft.

But doesn’t Airworx have approval to bring a crank back to standard?
 
.020 on the small Continental - but bearings for that are extremely expensive.

Can Airworx just fix the seal groove?
 
I don’t know, of course, but adding metal to crankshafts has a long history in the trucking industry. Maybe they heat treat it afterwards? I’ll ask my truck engineer buddy on the J3 site.
 
I think at present you can grind .010" and use an oversized crank seal. There is a company working on spray metal repair approval but not approved yet.

Not sure about Airworx. worth a call. Hear mixed reviews.
 
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