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Suggestions on how to locate an o-320 160hp?

Cardiff Kook

Cardiff Kook

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I have been on the look out for a bit for a 160hp o-320 to put into my o-290 cub that already has a 1750 gross weight increase.

I monitor the "for sale" here and check barnstormers occasionally.

Suggestions?
 
Here is a question:

Should i just try to buy a core and pay a shop to overhaul it?

I found a core for sale for $8k. That a fair price? What questions should I ask? Do I need to inspect a core in person or does it not matter if I am getting it overhauled? Whats an ovehaul run? $30k?

The craigslist ad posted by Gary is for an already overhauled engine. My concern there is the quality of the overhaul would be unknown, right?

I am looking for both reliability, cost, and potential resale value if I part with the plane one day.
 
This is a source of new, remanufactured and overhauled engines from Lycoming and Continental. https://www.airpowerinc.com/ They may take your old engine in exchange. It would be worth a call. Unless you deal with a known reputable engine shop, whatever you find on the internet could be just a pig and a poke. Sometimes you may get lucky, other times you may just get someone else's junk.

This is another long time engine shop and distributor with a good reputation. https://www.pennyanaero.com/
 
Unless the previous operator is a known entity, I always prefer to buy a "runout", even on a flying aircraft, and send it to my overhauler of choice. This provides me the confidence I require in my engines. When I converted our '54 A model from the original O-290D2 over 20 years ago, I had a difficult time finding an O-320. Then I remembered a spare O-360 that one of my former Ag breathren had sitting in his shop. I purchased the Penn Yan STC and never looked back. I had that engine shipped north and took to Bob Lutz (BJ Custom Engines in Palmer) and he overhauled it, (Bob is now retired in Oklahoma I believe). IMO, this route meets your objectives of resale value and reliability. "Cost" is a tough one as it is difficult to place a value on the confidence instilled by knowing your engine history.
Now that I am back in the Northeast, Penn Yan would be at the top of my list for a flat engine overhaul.

TR
 
My Craigslist link #2 above was just for a price point example. No way to know what's in the guts as you suggest. Get a runout core and have it redone. No prop strikes or reground cams/lifter bodies please. Oh, and known time on components is a bonus.

Gary
 
I'm swapping out engines in my 160 hp cub. Probably sell the core next year. Thought I'd take the crankshaft out and make sure it's good first.


20241122_161905.webp
 
You might try calling Cubcrafters. They always seem to have engines that have been removed from Cubs that come in for upgrades. They are pretty knowledgeable and generous with their time, too.
 
DENNY said:
Find a good flying Cub with a new 160 hp and all the other mods you want and buy that. Then sell you old one you will be money ahead in the long run.
DENNY
Click to expand...
I have heard this from a few people- very knowledgeable people such as yourself and bob turner- but I honestly dont get.

My current cub was rebuilt in 2019. The airframe is pretty much perfect. Its also a 1950 and scales at 1017#. I got a great deal on it in hindisght.

I have looked at a few cubs over the last few years and most of them have issues of some sort and/or weigh 1200#s plus.

If you do invest the countless hours (and I mean countless hours and wasted time checking out planes that dont check out) to find a nice light, one its generally $200k+.

seems much easier to put a new engine into a great airframe than find a great airframe.
 
Cardiff Kook said:
I have heard this from a few people- very knowledgeable people such as yourself and bob turner- but I honestly dont get.

My current cub was rebuilt in 2019. The airframe is pretty much perfect. Its also a 1950 and scales at 1017#. I got a great deal on it in hindisght.

I have looked at a few cubs over the last few years and most of them have issues of some sort and/or weigh 1200#s plus.

If you do invest the countless hours (and I mean countless hours and wasted time checking out planes that dont check out) to find a nice light, one its generally $200k+.

seems much easier to put a new engine into a great airframe than find a great airframe
Click to expand...
Soooooo A few things to consider. First is the mission. Has it changed from basic just learning to fly to something else (Camping trips, STOL, contests, heavy hauling)? Second is it in need of a new engine at this time? Third is this MOREBETTERDISEASE fever, that includes extended baggage/tail feathers? If you get a 160 engine, are you going to want 3 inch extended gear to improve your AOA? ACME shocks? Bushwheels? Safety cables? Upgrade brake master and hoses? Extended Baggage (because yours is basically unsafe and using it could cause a lot of fabric damage? Baggage door? Upper baggage? 2,000lb wt increase? Keller flaps? Consider what it takes for the new engine, New engine mount? Cowling mods for engine? exhaust/muffler? Carb? Mags? Alternator? Engine monitor? You are going to need a prop for that engine? Spinner? New oil cooler? Baffling? Price out all of the above then consider Labor cost, time and hassle to get it done. Now you are moving your CG forward and are going to have that dreaded forward CG stability to deal with;). You really need to go fly a few of the 1200 lb 160/180 hp cubs and find out they are not the terrible flying monsters that some claim. You may find overall performance and utility is better. You can buy your way into good light performance (Carbon Cub) the key is to develop the pilot skill to fly all types well. The reason old guys give you the advice we do is we have seen or done it ourselves more than once. No real right or wrong just things to ponder.
DENNY
 
If you don't buy a new engine this is my advice. Find a core and tear it down. Send cases out for matching and line bore. Send crank/rods out for inspection and overhaul. New Cam, lifters. New Cylinders (Because it is not that much more than overhaul and you don't know how much abuse they have had, never get rebuilt chrome! Consider polish and port on the way to your house cheap/safe power upgrade. New/rebuilt Bendix mags/carb/alternator. Whatever starter Steve recommends. Exhaust is a tossup Hot Rod or Rubbert. New oil cooler (front mount). New swing out engine mount. Consider thrust line STC. Price that out with IA labor and compare to a new engine 4 cylinder EGT/CHT for both. Don't pass up a deal on a 0360 once you break ground the difference is very noticeable.
DENNY
 
DENNY said:
Soooooo A few things to consider. First is the mission. Has it changed from basic just learning to fly to something else (Camping trips, STOL, contests, heavy hauling)? Second is it in need of a new engine at this time? Third is this MOREBETTERDISEASE fever, that includes extended baggage/tail feathers? If you get a 160 engine, are you going to want 3 inch extended gear to improve your AOA? ACME shocks? Bushwheels? Safety cables? Upgrade brake master and hoses? Extended Baggage (because yours is basically unsafe and using it could cause a lot of fabric damage? Baggage door? Upper baggage? 2,000lb wt increase? Keller flaps? Consider what it takes for the new engine, New engine mount? Cowling mods for engine? exhaust/muffler? Carb? Mags? Alternator? Engine monitor? You are going to need a prop for that engine? Spinner? New oil cooler? Baffling? Price out all of the above then consider Labor cost, time and hassle to get it done. Now you are moving your CG forward and are going to have that dreaded forward CG stability to deal with;). You really need to go fly a few of the 1200 lb 160/180 hp cubs and find out they are not the terrible flying monsters that some claim. You may find overall performance and utility is better. You can buy your way into good light performance (Carbon Cub) the key is to develop the pilot skill to fly all types well. The reason old guys give you the advice we do is we have seen or done it ourselves more than once. No real right or wrong just things to ponder.
DENNY
Click to expand...
Wait. What was the first question Denny? 😂
 
KevinJ said:
Wait. What was the first question Denny? 😂
Click to expand...
I am just 4 cups of joe down waiting for people to show up so I can have Turkey!! I am just trying to be nice and point out that his airframe is not really perfect, I think even you have gone to the dark side with a big baggage door.:cool:
DENNY
 
Cardiff Kook said:
Is that the 1750 gross weight increase or something else. Will check. The cabane is the landing gear attachment point?
Click to expand...

Steve Pierce said:
Does your 1950 Super Cub have the 3 tubes under the battery mount area and 5/16" cabane fitting holes?
Click to expand...

May cub does have the 1750 gw increase stc. My battery is under seat but here is a pic of cabane v fittings and baggage area which i think is what you are talking about
 

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Cardiff Kook said:
May cub does have the 1750 gw increase stc. My battery is under seat but here is a pic of cabane v fittings and baggage area which i think is what you are talking about
Click to expand...
That looks like a 1/4" bolt in the cabane V, not a 5/16". I would check to verify. Do you have the old battery access cover on the back of the fuselage just aft of the wing root? If so I would look in there and see if there are three 3/8" tubes from the bottom longerons to the top longerons and one between the top longerons. Search this site and there should be pictures.
 
I would bet the tubes are in the plane since he has Atlee’s extended baggage and it uses the upper 2 tubes as the support hangar.
 
If your going to skis in winter main gear bolt needs to have threads to the front for ski check cable. The safety cable attaches to the head at the back. I guess if you don’t use skis may not make a difference just the way we do it around here
 
Steve Pierce said:
That looks like a 1/4" bolt in the cabane V, not a 5/16". I would check to verify. Do you have the old battery access cover on the back of the fuselage just aft of the wing root? If so I would look in there and see if there are three 3/8" tubes from the bottom longerons to the top longerons and one between the top longerons. Search this site and there should be pictures.
Click to expand...
Steve- is this separate from the borer 1500 to 1750 stc? My plane had that done. Am i just verifying that it was actually done or is this an additional mod not covered by the stc?
 
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