behindpropellers
Registered User
NE Ohio
Bugs66 said:
You might want to look into just getting a steel I beam instead of doubling the trusses. That is how one of our hangers is built. Although steel was cheaper when this one was built.
Tim
Steel (or Wood?) Hangar Opinions - getting ready to build
- Thread starter Bugs66
- Start date
You might want to look into just getting a steel I beam instead of doubling the trusses. That is how one of our hangers is built. Although steel was cheaper when this one was built.
Tim
pzinck
Registered User
western,me
Snow load is a big factor in hangar pricing.We have a ridiculous snow load here,i beleive 72 lbs.A hanger in a more southern county i just looked at had beams half the size of mine.Pitch is a good thing as well.While my bud was worrying about shoveling his 1/12 pitch last storm,the snow had already slid off mine.Perhaps snow isn't a concern in some places,but sure is here.I would not own a flat roof or slightly pitched roof in this part of the country.
irishfield
BENEFACTOR
Penetanguishene, Ontario Canada
Yes..all you do is use an extra truss and build a 5 layer thick beam inside/outside/in between it with 2 x 12's. Layer of 2 x12, truss with area in web filled with 2 x 12, 2 x 12, next truss with 2 x12 in web area again and then final layer of 2 x12. Then LOTS..did I say LOTS.... of diagonal bracing from this double truss assembly back into all the trusses behind it to keep it from twisting off the end of the hangar!
I'll see if I can get up some of the detail shots of my 50 x 100 x 16 I took for someone else here a year or more ago. I have a Swiss style 40' door in both ends. Roof is 5/12 pitch and overbuilt with trusses on 2 foot centers.
If I was going to build another one I'd go 60' wide and a 50 foot door. Might keep my wing tips in better shape and would allow enough room to roll one airplane past another in the hangar as well..by nosing one to the wall and bringing the next one's wing over the rudder/fin.
irishfield
BENEFACTOR
Penetanguishene, Ontario Canada
Here yah go... Wayne
You will need the total door height dimension from Swiss to get the "beam" in the right place. My door can open the entire 16' opening, but I have the stop mechanism set at 14' to give more of a "V" when it's up. Highway trailers can just make it under it at this height when delivering stuff so I can back them in and use the fork truck.
You will need the total door height dimension from Swiss to get the "beam" in the right place. My door can open the entire 16' opening, but I have the stop mechanism set at 14' to give more of a "V" when it's up. Highway trailers can just make it under it at this height when delivering stuff so I can back them in and use the fork truck.
Bugs66
MEMBER
Spokane WA
Hi Irish,
thanks for the photos. Very useful. If I go with the pole building, it would be slightly different for the side columns. What size side columns do you have? A regular pole building has 6x6. Maybe I should use double 4x6 or 8x8 if available. There are several pole hangars at my field. Will look at those too.
thanks for the photos. Very useful. If I go with the pole building, it would be slightly different for the side columns. What size side columns do you have? A regular pole building has 6x6. Maybe I should use double 4x6 or 8x8 if available. There are several pole hangars at my field. Will look at those too.
irishfield
BENEFACTOR
Penetanguishene, Ontario Canada
If you look at the 4th picture...5 - 2 x 6's all tied together and the steel angle for the door track screwed on the outside of it. Maybe overkill...but better than having it fail.
2by6
FOUNDER
Lake St John Ontario
Hi Bugs.
Just built a 70 x 100 hanger at home here . We went with a engineered slab and stick built structure. We have 19ft clear to ceiling and a 19 by 56 Schweiss bi-fold with belts. Looked at other options but were told time and time again that steel structures insulated with blanket type insulation did not offer as much R- value. As fare as the bi-fold we just doubled the gable truss and reinforced back through the other truss in a X pattern to spread the load. Also put in a triple truss back in a ways and reinforced it and the wall. This allowed for a 2.5 ton electric hoist to be installed for float change overs. Heated with forced-air oil and kept temp at 60 all winter,( except when the gapping hole was opened ). A couple of friends have steel and have problems with them sweating between the steel and insulation. We finished the inside with white steel and put windows about 2 feet down from the ceiling. This makes it very bright inside during the day or at night when the lights are on. Hope this gives you a couple more ideas, good luck with your project.
Just built a 70 x 100 hanger at home here . We went with a engineered slab and stick built structure. We have 19ft clear to ceiling and a 19 by 56 Schweiss bi-fold with belts. Looked at other options but were told time and time again that steel structures insulated with blanket type insulation did not offer as much R- value. As fare as the bi-fold we just doubled the gable truss and reinforced back through the other truss in a X pattern to spread the load. Also put in a triple truss back in a ways and reinforced it and the wall. This allowed for a 2.5 ton electric hoist to be installed for float change overs. Heated with forced-air oil and kept temp at 60 all winter,( except when the gapping hole was opened ). A couple of friends have steel and have problems with them sweating between the steel and insulation. We finished the inside with white steel and put windows about 2 feet down from the ceiling. This makes it very bright inside during the day or at night when the lights are on. Hope this gives you a couple more ideas, good luck with your project.
Steel hangers
Irishfield,
Noticed two personnel doors, isn't the one in the bifold tough to use for some of your friends at times?
A friend has a truss company here in Town and feels that it is very important to have the diagonal bracing on the bottom of the rafters, even only if they are 1x2 strapping. Part of his insurance disclaimer. Put hurricane clips on mine also as we're close to the Coast.
Pzinc is right re snow load and pitch (minimum 5/12 w/ steel roofing)though where I am lack of wind is rarely a factor tho I'm sure you're in a similiar situation.
wlt
Irishfield,
Noticed two personnel doors, isn't the one in the bifold tough to use for some of your friends at times?
A friend has a truss company here in Town and feels that it is very important to have the diagonal bracing on the bottom of the rafters, even only if they are 1x2 strapping. Part of his insurance disclaimer. Put hurricane clips on mine also as we're close to the Coast.
Pzinc is right re snow load and pitch (minimum 5/12 w/ steel roofing)though where I am lack of wind is rarely a factor tho I'm sure you're in a similiar situation.
wlt
i have a r&m building. I put a heated floor in it. If i were to do it again i would at least blow the ceiling with urethane, the walls also if it could be afforded. The problem with blanket insulation is over every purling it is smashed down and there is very little r-factor also in order to get the screw head to seal you end up with a small dimple around the head which will hold water and you have a hot roof so it is a potential leak spot. I cannot keep snow over my purlings all winter due to this problem. Plus it would be much faster to put up if you do not have to deal with the blanket insulation on the roof. I asked R&M several times about my options to add additional insulation and they never seem to get back to me.
irishfield
BENEFACTOR
Penetanguishene, Ontario Canada
Re: Steel hangers
Actually have three personnel doors. Two in the side shown and one in the other side...and as for that 'wittle door in the bi-fold...that'd be for my guard dog to come and go as he pleases!
Diagonal bracing...look at my first couple pictures. You'd be hard pressed to nail in much more 1 x 6 if you tried. Hasn't fallen down in 13 years. I'm on the escarpement 2500 feet off Lake Huron / Georgian Bay. High wind loads and MANY feet of lake effect snow every year..and why I went 2 foot centers on the trusses to take any guess work out of the equation.
That 50' steel beam was the fun part. Put it in as an afterthought by driving a JSW excavator into the hanger with 2 x 6's down on the floor for the tracks to run on, strapped the beam to the back side of the bucket and lifted it up to height..swung it to the right... out through the hangar wall where I'd removed the steel siding...drove the excavtor forward to align the beam and swung it to the left to sit it on the other side.
The hangar I built by myself in 16' sections on the floor, then lifted them in place with my JD410..braced each section and then built the next section...repeat. With the trusses, since I have a bi-fold in each end...so nothing to prop the first trusses with, put 16 of them together sitting on a couple timbers on the floor 90* to the direction they go. X-braced, strapped etc and then had a crane come in and lift the hole assembly up onto the walls. Then added hurricane clips to each truss. From there I had 3 guys help for about 6 hours while we boom trucked each truss up into place and then I did the bracing and strapping myself. Steel work was the only thing I hired out. Hangar has a 7 block foundation on footings and a 10" thick floor.
wlt said:
Actually have three personnel doors. Two in the side shown and one in the other side...and as for that 'wittle door in the bi-fold...that'd be for my guard dog to come and go as he pleases!
Diagonal bracing...look at my first couple pictures. You'd be hard pressed to nail in much more 1 x 6 if you tried. Hasn't fallen down in 13 years. I'm on the escarpement 2500 feet off Lake Huron / Georgian Bay. High wind loads and MANY feet of lake effect snow every year..and why I went 2 foot centers on the trusses to take any guess work out of the equation.
That 50' steel beam was the fun part. Put it in as an afterthought by driving a JSW excavator into the hanger with 2 x 6's down on the floor for the tracks to run on, strapped the beam to the back side of the bucket and lifted it up to height..swung it to the right... out through the hangar wall where I'd removed the steel siding...drove the excavtor forward to align the beam and swung it to the left to sit it on the other side.
The hangar I built by myself in 16' sections on the floor, then lifted them in place with my JD410..braced each section and then built the next section...repeat. With the trusses, since I have a bi-fold in each end...so nothing to prop the first trusses with, put 16 of them together sitting on a couple timbers on the floor 90* to the direction they go. X-braced, strapped etc and then had a crane come in and lift the hole assembly up onto the walls. Then added hurricane clips to each truss. From there I had 3 guys help for about 6 hours while we boom trucked each truss up into place and then I did the bracing and strapping myself. Steel work was the only thing I hired out. Hangar has a 7 block foundation on footings and a 10" thick floor.
redrooster
Registered User
western Washington
CPT. BLY said:
Is that Fantasy Field? JUst where near Chehalis is it located? (lat/long,radial/dme,?) Did you build/develop the airstrip, or are you just developing some property on it?
Rooster
hangar
Bugs, If a 60' wide x 3' high x 8" glue-lam beam would work I have several that I am taking out of a shopping mall that are great. They clear spanned 50' with them in the mall set level and had the roof and all the HVAC and sprinkler system weight on them. Other than scratched up a bit they are in near perfect shape. I have no idea what they would be worth new but it would be scary I'll bet. I also have alot of smaller beams that are extra to what I need to build a hangar.
Dave
Bugs, If a 60' wide x 3' high x 8" glue-lam beam would work I have several that I am taking out of a shopping mall that are great. They clear spanned 50' with them in the mall set level and had the roof and all the HVAC and sprinkler system weight on them. Other than scratched up a bit they are in near perfect shape. I have no idea what they would be worth new but it would be scary I'll bet. I also have alot of smaller beams that are extra to what I need to build a hangar.
Dave
scout88305
SPONSOR
Northern Minnesota
54' x 45' Morton with a Schweiss 42'x12 door, man door, and 10'x10' service door, skylites, no windows was $37,000 turn key 18 months ago without cement. They finished the job in 3 days. Totally impressed. The Schweiss door was well below that of a Wilson cost wise. I think my invoice was $4700 on the overhead door installed.
redrooster
Registered User
western Washington
A freind of mine lives on an airpark and has a hangar that's 35-40 deep by maybe 60 or 70 feet? Not really a "box" hangar, more like a t-hangar building without partitions. Anyway, instead of bifold,hydroswing, or rolling doors- he has several rollup doors sized about like on a one-car garage. You roll up as many doors as required, then the track or mullion in between the doors can just snap out. Don't know what the total cost was, but I'm thinking it was less than one big, long hangar door. Plus it looks more residential and less industrial. Never seen that arrangement on a hangar before but I liked it.
Rooster
Rooster
Louis
Registered User
Re: Steel Hangar Opinions - getting ready to build
>>>with a 47x13 bi-fold.
i have experience with bi-fold, standart garage type ones, and one one piece hydroswing. The hydroswing is by far the best with zero maintenance if you can live with the space it takes in the front to swing
Louis
>>>with a 47x13 bi-fold.
i have experience with bi-fold, standart garage type ones, and one one piece hydroswing. The hydroswing is by far the best with zero maintenance if you can live with the space it takes in the front to swing
Louis
Steve's Aircraft (Steve)
FRIEND
White City Oregon
Had to replace a three bay open hanger (120x30) that a micro burst destroyed. So, I settled on a 70x90 metal building with 12 foot side walls (never could understand going any higher for my use) and one 50x12 door on one end with a 10x10 garage roll-up on the opposite end side wall. Since this is a storage hanger only, I did not insulate it, and minimum electricity will be in it. Bought the building from Universal Steel Buildings and price was $36,000.00 delivered. Had a wild hair from somewhere, because I decided I was getting too old to push two or three airplanes out of the way to get to the one I wanted to fly, so I built a 52 foot diameter carousal floor in the middle of the front 70x70. I will be parking four airplanes tail to tail on it and the one I want out I just turn on the power and watch it swing around to the door. The back section will be used to store disassembled projects that will go in and out the garage door. Am sanding down the deck to paint it next week-end, then all that will be left is building the door. Plan on doing the "accordion"style system. Total for the building, concrete, carousal, door and electricity will be under $65,000 plus a years worth of my week-ends to put it all together.
Steve
Steve
Bugs 66
I like wood buildings,
if constructed correctly it well last for a long time,
it is repairable, should sometime damage the structure, you can go to the lumber company.
It is versatile in what you can and cannot do. add windows doors, stick a nail into the wall and hang your hat.
Most of all it can be constructed in a way that you can conserve energy, with better or more insulation. vapor barriers.
You can install any type of siding and roofing you want. and in a residential area it will bend in much better. note at lease up here asphalt shingles are a lot cheaper to buy and install than steel.
It is a quieter building with less expansion and contraction.
You can engineer the wood building or for that fact any building to your local wind, snow and seismic loadings.
Last but thing please check out Eagle Rigid Span at www.EagleRigidSpan.com tell them Gary sent you.
I like wood buildings,
if constructed correctly it well last for a long time,
it is repairable, should sometime damage the structure, you can go to the lumber company.
It is versatile in what you can and cannot do. add windows doors, stick a nail into the wall and hang your hat.
Most of all it can be constructed in a way that you can conserve energy, with better or more insulation. vapor barriers.
You can install any type of siding and roofing you want. and in a residential area it will bend in much better. note at lease up here asphalt shingles are a lot cheaper to buy and install than steel.
It is a quieter building with less expansion and contraction.
You can engineer the wood building or for that fact any building to your local wind, snow and seismic loadings.
Last but thing please check out Eagle Rigid Span at www.EagleRigidSpan.com tell them Gary sent you.
sharp
Registered User
Wasilla, AK
Seems Miracle-truss offers the clear-span of steel building with the ease of insulating as the wood-framed buildings and even options for roofing materials. There were a couple good reports above, only negative may be price?
Any architect's out there offer designs for hangar-homes? I've been looking but only Miracle-Truss seems to have examples/styles with combo designs. Looking for design ideas.
Thanks
Sharp
Any architect's out there offer designs for hangar-homes? I've been looking but only Miracle-Truss seems to have examples/styles with combo designs. Looking for design ideas.
Thanks
Sharp
D
Dinorwic
Steve's Aircraft (Steve), would you mind going into a little detail about your carousal and do you have pictures. Thanks.
pzinck
Registered User
western,me
http://www.carouselcondos.com/ Here is a site to some carousel condo hangers.http://www.silentwingsairshows.com/carousel/ Here is another site.Some pretty snazzy hangers.http://www.carouselcondos.com/links/tour.html Tried to post direct link to video,but it failed.Go to highlighted thingy and then go to tour,just unbeleivable.
scout88305
SPONSOR
Northern Minnesota
Frank T said:
Frank, 12' wall with 32" wall girt spacing and 24" on the roof purlins.
Hardtailjohn
Registered User
Marion, MT
I've got a Hi-Fold, as well as a Schweiss, and there's no comparison! The Hi-fold is MUCH better built door!! There's nothing wrong with the Schweiss, but it's nowhere near as strong as my Hi-Fold! If I remember, the Schweiss was a bit more money too.
My main hangar is built by Dandi, in Kalispell, MT. It's 60x60, with 16' walls (so I can get a Beaver on amphibs in) with a 15x50 Hi-Fold door. It also has a 20x60 "lean-to" off one side, so I'm not having to heat the whole hangar if I'm not out there working. I've got radiant floor heat (the ONLY way to go!!!) and a wood/waste-oil burning boiler, as well as a 16x26 paint booth in one corner of the main hangar. The other hangar is 50x60, with 16' walls and a 14x40' Schweiss door.
I really like the Dandi building, as it's all wood, and is clear span...
JH
My main hangar is built by Dandi, in Kalispell, MT. It's 60x60, with 16' walls (so I can get a Beaver on amphibs in) with a 15x50 Hi-Fold door. It also has a 20x60 "lean-to" off one side, so I'm not having to heat the whole hangar if I'm not out there working. I've got radiant floor heat (the ONLY way to go!!!) and a wood/waste-oil burning boiler, as well as a 16x26 paint booth in one corner of the main hangar. The other hangar is 50x60, with 16' walls and a 14x40' Schweiss door.
I really like the Dandi building, as it's all wood, and is clear span...
JH
Steve's Aircraft (Steve)
FRIEND
White City Oregon
Ok, some more details. As I mentioned earlier, the hanger is 70X90 with a 52 foot carousel floor centered in the front 70X70. This gives me a 20X70 foot area for project storage in the back, accessible through a garage door. The floor rides on 74 stationary casters rated at 1000 pounds each. The casters were adjusted for height after the metal was put on top and then grouted. The center pivot is a 14" casing with a grooved top plate for 1 inch bearings covered with a corresponding 16" casing that the spokes are welded to. The metal spokes are 2X3 3/16 box. There are two bent rings that ride on the casters and the spokes are welded to the top of the rings. We used a CAD program to figure the plywood layout and welded in support bars for the layout. The floor is 1 1/8 tongue and groove sub floor plywood glued and biscuit cut on the ends. We made our own 1/2 biscuits and a cut with a router. There are two removable panels to get to the casters for maintenance. We are going to paint the top with a urethane hi traffic deck paint. The floor is powered with a 1750 rpm electric motor hooked to a gear reduction box with an output shaft of 44 rpm. The gear box pulley runs a 3/8 cable that is wrapped around the outside edge of the floor to move the floor 1 revolution in 3 minutes. The main door will be an accordion style that will ride on tracks to the sides. Probably another month or two of weekends and it will be finished.
Thre are more photos in my photo album here. http://www.supercub.org/photopost/showgallery.php?cat=773&ppuser=213
