Source for round filter air box

[wdoubleday]

Hi Folks,
I'm having a senior moment today and can't seem to find a source for the round filter carb heat/air box for the -5 Marvel Schebler carb. I've got a Titan 0-370 engine. Considered the square inlet but my reading tells me best to go with round. I've only come up with Atlee Dodge as a source for the airbox, but the filter support rod seems to be on an angle to the inlet.
much appreciated - I need more coffee!
Wendel

 

[mike mcs repair]

randy r can't remember how to spell his name

 

[PerryB]

randy r can't remember how to spell his name

Rubbert?

 

[PerryB]

The square vs round debate can go on forever. I like the way a round filter has a better protected element, but they are are also somewhat known for snapping the stud and dropping the filter and cap from the sky.

 

[Colorado-Cub]

Go with Randy’s lower cowl and airbox it’s a much better design than pipers. Randy Rubbert 701-847-3008

Any pictures online anywhere of this setup?

 

[wdoubleday]

Got some photos of Randy’s lower cowl and carb heat box. Looks like the cylindrical filter attachment point is built into the air passway on the bottom cowl. Also like the dual outlet design on the lower cowl. Decided to go with this. Thanks for the replies

 

[Gordon Misch]

The square vs round debate can go on forever. I like the way a round filter has a better protected element, but they are are also somewhat known for snapping the stud and dropping the filter and cap from the sky.

When I converted to the 160 HP O-320 I used Charly Center's STC. He told me on the phone that I should also convert to the round filter because I'd see about 50 more RPM. I didn't take his advice so I don't have any experience, but FWIW that's what he told me. If I have to do any significant lower cowl work, I'll probably make the switch.

 

[mike mcs repair]

When I converted to the 160 HP O-320 I used Charly Center's STC. He told me on the phone that I should also convert to the round filter because I'd see about 50 more RPM. I didn't take his advice so I don't have any experience, but FWIW that's what he told me. If I have to do any significant lower cowl work, I'll probably make the switch.

it's EASY to throw more gas in a charge, but hard to get more air.... think superchargers...

 

[BC12D-4-85]

Best square air filter: http://www.donaldsonaerospace-defense.com/library/files/documents/pdfs/007217.pdf I see 50 rpm over Brackett.

Cubs use FAA PMA P10-7150: https://donaldsonaerospace-defense.com/library/files/documents/pdfs/048554.pdf

Fram round may be even better as is bigger.

Gary

 

[hotrod180]

Best square air filter: http://www.donaldsonaerospace-defense.com/library/files/documents/pdfs/007217.pdf I see 50 rpm over Brackett.

Took several tries to google up a comprehensive application chart,
but it looks like Donaldson doesn't make a filter for an early (1953-55) C180 with the "shark mouth" air filter.
They just list the 180A and up.
Anyone know any different?
I like the Bracket filters, cheap and easy to just replace every year, but if I can get a little more MP.....

 

[BC12D-4-85]

Try this test. Do a static or inflight test for max indicated manifold pressure both with and without the foam element. See if it makes any difference in your application. You could also confirm the gauge indication before flight by setting the altimeter to 0 feet and comparing the two "Hg readings assuming your altimeter is accurate. But it's the differential that's important for the filter test...actual WFO MP noted relates more to induction system and cylinder integrity - at WFO closer to ambient pressure is better and a lower indication near 10-12 "Hg is better near idle.

If there's an improvement without the element worth pursuing then Challenger makes a replacement P/N CP-2180 (http://www.challengeraviation.com/ApplicationGuide.pdf). They use a K&N oil wetted element that serviceable and flow better than the Bracketts. I've used them and they can help with airflow.

Gary