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Piper Rudder Airworthiness Directive Issued

So I removed a rudder on a 1976 Piper Super Cub today. Removed the steering arm, cleaned inside the bottom rudder post to bare steel, cleaned with isopropyl alcohol and tested with 70% v/v nitic acid. Acid stayed clear verifying this rudder post is 4130N steel.
 
I just did my rudder today using AMOC. Removed rudder, installed 4130 tube and secured with 2 3/16" bolts, flushed with linseed oil, replaced bushings. Easy Peasy...........billed myself for 2.5 hrs.
 
Steve, thanks for posting the videos. I was concerned that perhaps there was a dwell time and the results were not immediate. Your videos confirm my results. So far, I have only seen clear, not the immediate yellow change your 1025 show.
 
Did you ever get anyone to verify what the reference number is?
The reference number is the number FAA assigned to the AMOC and is just below the address on the letter from the FAA that approved the AMOC. They also stamped my request letter with an FAA approved stamp. I think that also has the reference number written in with a signature from the FAA engineer that approved it.
 
Looks like 10 years for my C90 powered J-3.

The reference number is the number FAA assigned to the AMOC and is just below the address on the letter from the FAA that approved the AMOC. They also stamped my request letter with an FAA approved stamp. I think that also has the reference number written in with a signature from the FAA engineer that approved it.
IMG_7265.webp
 
I have a lifetime supply that I got from Walmart online. Anyone in Seattle area that needs some is welcome to it. Just PM me. I’m at PAE. And I’m on the SC map.
Also, I submitted my notice of intent to use the AMOC 772-25-00191 and received a prompt favorable reply from SEA FSDO. I plan on using the bolt option.
Chris
“Mikey”
 
I understand the Wal Mart product is .5% I don"t know if that is strong enough for the test.

Jeff, where did you obtain the 70%? Unfortunately I am in South Florida so it makes no sense to ship it back and forth. I do appreciate the offer.
Jon
 
In 2021 I did a full restoration of my 180 hp cub. A friend of mine was one of the first to have a rudder failure while on floats and his account of what it was like to control the airplane and to land safely was frightening to say the least. It was something that I never want to experience.

At that time there was no FAA guidance as to how to correct the problem. It was obvious that a reinforcement was needed now.

Since the rudder was stripped down for fabric and after cleaning and inspecting for corrosion I reinforced the upper post area. This was done by inserting / driving a lubricated 26 inch piece of 3/4 x .035, 4130 in from the top of the rudder post. This required separating from the 3/8 tube and heating the post to reshape to accept the insert. The tube was rosetted into place and then shaped at the upper end to the original spec and incorporated it into the weld. (no upper post on this rudder). Documented the reinforcement on a 337.

My view was that the combination of the two tubes with a combined .060 wall thickness was at least equal to or greater in bending resistance (in the critical area) than a single 7/8 x .035, 4130 tube used in a new replacement rudder.

I submitted all of this history / drawings etc. to the FAA through the AMOC process and I have received AMOC approval allowing the rudder to remain in service as is.

Happy Days
 
In 2021 I did a full restoration of my 180 hp cub. A friend of mine was one of the first to have a rudder failure while on floats and his account of what it was like to control the airplane and to land safely was frightening to say the least. It was something that I never want to experience.

At that time there was no FAA guidance as to how to correct the problem. It was obvious that a reinforcement was needed now.

Since the rudder was stripped down for fabric and after cleaning and inspecting for corrosion I reinforced the upper post area. This was done by inserting / driving a lubricated 26 inch piece of 3/4 x .035, 4130 in from the top of the rudder post. This required separating from the 3/8 tube and heating the post to reshape to accept the insert. The tube was rosetted into place and then shaped at the upper end to the original spec and incorporated it into the weld. (no upper post on this rudder). Documented the reinforcement on a 337.

My view was that the combination of the two tubes with a combined .060 wall thickness was at least equal to or greater in bending resistance (in the critical area) than a single 7/8 x .035, 4130 tube used in a new replacement rudder.

I submitted all of this history / drawings etc. to the FAA through the AMOC process and I have received AMOC approval allowing the rudder to remain in service as is.

Happy Days
Not sure why they required others to use .049” especially when looking at the specs between 3/4”x .035” and 1025 7/8” x .035.
 
Not sure why they required others to use .049” especially when looking at the specs between 3/4”x .035” and 1025 7/8” x .035.
Not sure either.
Perhaps the status of being welded into position along with the estimate that the .060 combined welded structure should be equal or greater than a single piece of 7/8 x .035 4130 in bend resistance. Equality is all that should be required.
The approval received is restricted to this aircraft only and can not be applied elsewhere.

I am very thankful for their reasonable decision!

Personally .049 seems to be a bit overkill.
But for a multiple use design the Engineering philosophy of “when in doubt build it stout” may have been applied.
This could be to compensate for unknown internal conditions (Corrosion). It sort of treats it as if the strength of the existing 7/8 1025 didn’t exist.

My rudder was in good condition.
 
Maybe it's because the applicant asked for .049. It is half the cost of .035, and less than a pound heavier. And yes - a double .035 tube of 1025 steel is way stronger than a single 7/8" .035 4130 steel.
 
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