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PA-14 Engine Upgrade/Supercub Cowl Installation

randlekid

Registered User
Randle, WA
I am completing an O-320 engine upgrade on my PA-14 using Crosswind STOL's stc which requires Supercub cowling. I have purchased the top and bottom cowl and nosebowl from Univair and cowl mounting channels and angle brackets from Atlee Dodge. I am looking for advice on installation sequence. I don't want to start drilling holes in the cowl channels as it seems the fit of both top and bottom cowl to the nosebowl looks a little irregular around the edge of the nosebowl. I can push and pull with some pressure and it looks like things should come together as long as the hole in the cowl channel is drilled in the right place to mate with the nosebowl hole location. What is the best way to do this? Just measure or use a hole locater which seems near impossible with the channel mounted to the cowl.
The other question is there a better way to attach the cowl channels to the
firewall/boot cowl than using angle brackets? I'm open to suggestions.

Steve
 
Steve, while you're fitting your cowling you might consider splitting the nose bowl. A split nose bowl sure is easier to work with later on down the line, and I wish I had one on my plane.

Eric
 
Stoddard's in Anchorage sells a locally produced composite nose bowl that has a seam vertically at the center, or in line with the prop hub. The seam provides for attaching the two halves together with screws. It's been field approved around here but isn't STC approved last I knew. Pulling a Cub prop if needed to remove the nose bowl is pretty simple so I never pursued it.

Stewart
 
Heres the 15 minute version from memory.....

Cowl installation steps: assuming new Atlee rails & boot cowl.

1. Mark rails for drilling holes at nose bowl by installing top cowl on nose bowl, then installing rails with rail on TOP of nose bowl temporarily to mark holes through existing nose bowl holes. Keep rails and nose bowl same angle as will be installed on plane. Once happy remove rails and drill top rails. Also mark sides of rails at firewall end so you will be able to see where existing hole is when covered by cowls(you need this in #11 below)

2. Repeat with bottom cowl for bottom rails

3. Screw rails to nose bowl with countersunk screws & nuts.. not quite snug for now.

4. Install top and bottom cowls on nose bowl and rails

5. Before setting the nose bowl and top & bottom cowl assembly on, first take some thick felt pieces 1/2”? thick (I use the piper baffle felt) tape them on flywheel (make sure you have the flywheel bolted down flat and snug) to help align the nose bowl evenly off the flywheel and to center up the nose bowl at fly wheel.

6. Use 4 pairs of small “C” clamp vise grips(plain ends, not swivel ends) to clamp cowl rails at fire wall to mounting tabs on boot cowl. Use a wood blocks on top of top & bottom cowls to protect it from damage from clamps

7. Now just start playing with the 4 clamps and also with adding blocks under the center standoff on top of nose bowl to engine case, trying to keep flywheel centered in open of nose bowl, and keeping top of flywheel from hitting nose bowl.....

8. When it starts looking good, remove felt, install prop sinner backing plate and make sure it will clear nose bowl and that the gap between it and the face of nose bowl is even... check and see how air box and air cleaner center up & clear.

9. Keep doing steps 6 to 8 until it looks good.... or is best you can get...... you may need to walk away for a night....

10. Also.....you may end up shortening rails at firewall ends, and once happy you usually end up shortening the tabs on firewall so they will lay flat without hitting the receptacles for the fasteners in rails(atlee boot cowl)

11. Measure and mark where to drill tabs on fire wall to match existing holes in rails.

12. Make new rods to go from engine mount to bottom rails& install, make sure you miss exhaust.. make sure exhaust was on for all of these steps!!

13. Now make new side cowl doors, install hinge, bottom latch angle, rear former, make them 1 “ long in front

14. Carefully trim front till with 1/2” of where it needs to end up.

15. Open door to get door out of the way and put 3/4" masking tape on nose bowl exactly IN FRONT of where you want front edge of door to end.

16. Close & latch door, now put a piece of tape directly over last one, the back edge of tape will mark where to end your trimming at.... or at least give you a line to sneak up on...
 
I would like to thank Eric for the suggestion of the possibility of splitting the nose bowl. It is surely has its advantages but it is going to have to be considered at a later point in time.
Stewart thanks again for sending me the pictures of the cowling installation on your PA-12 and putting me in touch with Mike. Checking the photo gallery it looks like you beautiful 12.
Mike, thanks for taking the time and effort to sit down and layout a 16 step process on the cowling installation. It is sure going to make the process easier. You mentioned several things that I have not thought of in the process that I have been trying.

Steve
 
Steve,

For my part, you're welcome. How about filling in the blanks? What motor are you upgrading from? Which 0-320 are you using? What prop will you use? How did you acquire the engine/prop? What other work are you doing or are you staying forward of the firewall? I'll want a PIREP. I like my plane but I bought it disassembled and never flew it prior to all the mods being added. Your before and after perspective will be interesting.

Stewart
 
I bought the PA-14 (N55DV) in Aug. 2007. It had been restored in 2002 with less than 2700TT. I upgraded from an O-235 to a 1996 O-320B2D
that was removed from a 160 Maule upgraded to a 180. The engine only has 293SMOH. I converted it to a B2B which required a different sump and accessory case. I am using Charlie Center's STC conversion which requires Supercub cowling. I am also using the Atlee Dodge Hot Rod Muffler and cowl channels. I also bought a Borer (IA-175GM 82/44). That's about all I can afford this year except a set of wheels, I will probably look Goodyear 25x11's since they are much cheaper than Bushwheels.

Steve
 
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