PA-11 rebuild
- Thread starter YJLopes
- Start date
Steve Pierce
BENEFACTOR
Graham, TX
Forgot, Super Cub seat fits the PA11.
gntw
SPONSOR
Ft. St. John BC Can.
I have piper oil pressure oil temperature combo gauge and front seat from smith cub and other parts send Tex to cell two 5 zero 2 six 1 one 88 three can send u pictures
kase
SPONSOR
Billings MT
Should be able to find a used PA11 seat. There’s hundreds of them laying around the country. Guy on barnstormers is selling new ones.
PA18-95 muffler won’t fit a PA11 with a - 8 or 12 engine. It will hit the firewall because the PA11 engine is a inch closer to it. The PA11 has a completely different cabin air box. Also the PA18 has the tail pipe welded to the muffler. On a PA11 the tail pipe is removable and it has to be otherwise you can’t take the left stack/muffler off cause the motor mount doesn’t swing out.
AWI can build you a PA11 exhaust for a -12. Still can’t get the screen out very easy so install a oil filter on the left side of engine.
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I'm pretty good with google-fu, but this one has eluded me. I searched Barnstormers for PA-11 seat, cub seat, piper seat, and 1/2 dozen other ideas with no luck. Gotta link?
I finally found a used seat from 1934A above. Its coming so I have something to work with. There just isn't a lot of 11 seats out there that I can find. I'd be interested in chatting with someone about new ones.
I also am working on a deal on a PA-18 seat just for comparison's sake. Some folks say it sits too high with the spar in the cabin, others have told me they prefer it on longer days in the saddle. I'll report back what I learn.
The exhaust issue is close to solved I think. I'll know more in the next few days. I have a stock 11 system that I'll modify a bit. I had heard that the 18 engine sat 1" further forward, but the exhaust moved with it rather than sitting further aft, now I'm not sure what to believe. In fact, a few of the exhaust outfits advertise the PA-18 exhaust part number 12232/12233 as a replacement for the -11. I found guy in FL www.planexhaust.com that says he'll build those parts numbers for pretty reasonable money (~$1900) and quick (~5 days). I just hate to roll the dice on something that MIGHT fit.
In my experience (limited on 4 cylinder continentals), the filter on the LH side is mostly for looks. I've cut them open and found them clean, but the screen had debris. I believe it is just a bypass filter, not full flow. Can anyone confirm that? Better than nothing I suppose, just not sure how much better.
mvivion
SPONSOR
Bozeman,MT
My 11 had a Super Cub seat, installed per the STC. It did indeed put my head pretty close to the spars up above. I'm 5 foot 8, and it didn't bother me much, but then I never hit an immovable object hard with it either. I always thought if you could cut down the legs on a SC seat.....I know, I know. I liked sitting that high for visibility, but that's a pretty serious headache bar up top. Ideally, if in big rebuild, logic would suggest changing to a SC top deck. BIG job, however.
MTV
BC12D-4-85
SPONSOR
Fairbanks, AK.
The pressure screen is supposed to be removed when the Tempest/F&M TAF-L spin-on adapter is installed. My C-85's wasn't and the A&P and I decided to remove the spin on unit and keep the factory screen. The screen is first in line after the oil pump and the filter second.
Gary
Steve Pierce
BENEFACTOR
Graham, TX
Yep, what Gary said. There have been engines ruined because the mechanic installing the oil filter adapter didn't remove the screen and subsequently no one checked the screen, it clogged up with carbon etc and shut off the oil supply. For clarity the original STC allowed you to leave the screen in if you wanted but they did not foresee the afore mentioned happening and thus changed it when Tempest bought the STC from F&M.
Still have that adapter around? Want to sell it?
I got in to the OH manual last night and it turns out what I heard or assumed was all wrong. Thanks for steering me down the right path. Maybe the oil filter will solve a few problems all at once for me.
hotrod180
FRIEND
Port Townsend, WA
If you can figure out just which parts you need, you might check with these guys.
Nice exhaust work at reasonable prices.
Custom Aircraft Parts
BC12D-4-85
SPONSOR
Fairbanks, AK.
I ended up giving it to the A&P that helped me with an oil pressure issue in exchange for his time. He has a J-3 in restoration and could use it. My oil pressure lag of indication at the gauge was a due to a 1941 oil line from the engine that had become almost plugged. A quick shot of brake cleaner fixed that. Best luck with your restoration. I really liked my PA-11 but wife refused to share the seating with the dog.
Gary
skywagon8a
MEMBER
SE Mass MA6
I'll second their quality workmanship and service.
I'm hoping for close to 800, but I'm realistic.
Waldo M
MEMBER
Finger Lakes area, western NY.
I really like PA-11s. If I faced that ultimatum, the airplane would stay. Either the wife or the dog would have to go. I guess it would come down to which one was less trouble to keep.
BC12D-4-85
SPONSOR
Fairbanks, AK.
The fix for the -11 would've been a rear baggage door large enough to load and retrieve the dog. I'd not do another rebuild w/o a rear opening.
Gary
Gary
HAHAHAHAHA! I had my 185 and dog before the wife. Sure do miss that pup, still have the `wagon and the wife. Seems to be working so far.
Still hunting for a tach and a oil pressure/temp gauge. I had a line on one a few months ago but I lost the contact info. Maybe I'll bug Keystone this week.
Brown Santa brought a bunch of parts from Spruce, so I have a few things to do. Just need to prep a couple of pods first, so I can finance this whole cub endeavor.
wireweinie
FOUNDER
Palmer, AK
They sure do, I've installed plenty of them. I guess it seems a little like putting glass on grandpa's old lever action rifle, or a nose ring on Marilyn Monroe, some things just don't fit together. I'm not going too crazy with originality, but I would like things to be generally period correct.
I hadn't thought to search by engine...thanks!
I've been stuck building cargo pods for a few weeks, which is a good problem to have, but it gets in the way of putting this thing together.
I picked up my kids from school today and went straight back to the shop. I had all my adult responsibilities handled to ship a pod to NZ on monday, so I could spend a little time on this with my monsters. They are both pretty excited to see this thing fly, but I wanted to generate a little more investment. I figured if they had actually made some of the pieces, they'd feel a little ownership in the bird down the road.
One of the few parts I haven't been able to source is the cowl support rods that run from the engine mount to the lower cowl longeron. Univair doesn't make it and there isn't any in captivity that I could find. I spoke to Clyde and Jim at Univair and they both suggested that it would be easy to make them.
First we made an alignment tool to fit around the cowl to locate the hole in the nose bowl concentric with the crank.
I got some 4130 tubing and the kids and I got to work. They were excited to run the torch since that was one of the last things in the shop they hadn't operated. We pinched the ends, drilled some holes, and now the cowl supports itself.
These were surprisingly complex since it was tough to clock the bend in the bottom with the hole drill at the top. We made one practice version and figured out how not to do it. The next 2 fit where we wanted.
A small victory tonight, but progress is progress.
I am still hunting for a tach and oil pressure/temp gauges. Any leads? I was trying to get through to Keystone the last 2 days. I heard there was a heck of a storm in PA and it sounds like most of Lock Haven was shut down. Maybe monday...
The seat I got from Ryan (1934A) fit after some massaging so I have a place to sit when I finally get to fly. Glass should be here soon. Made a deal on a prop that's at Sensenich for refinish/rebalance. I'm slowly running out of problems to solve. I have to ship out 2 pods in the next couple weeks and build a couple more, so that will interfere with progress, but it will finance it too.
I picked up my kids from school today and went straight back to the shop. I had all my adult responsibilities handled to ship a pod to NZ on monday, so I could spend a little time on this with my monsters. They are both pretty excited to see this thing fly, but I wanted to generate a little more investment. I figured if they had actually made some of the pieces, they'd feel a little ownership in the bird down the road.
One of the few parts I haven't been able to source is the cowl support rods that run from the engine mount to the lower cowl longeron. Univair doesn't make it and there isn't any in captivity that I could find. I spoke to Clyde and Jim at Univair and they both suggested that it would be easy to make them.
First we made an alignment tool to fit around the cowl to locate the hole in the nose bowl concentric with the crank.
I got some 4130 tubing and the kids and I got to work. They were excited to run the torch since that was one of the last things in the shop they hadn't operated. We pinched the ends, drilled some holes, and now the cowl supports itself.
These were surprisingly complex since it was tough to clock the bend in the bottom with the hole drill at the top. We made one practice version and figured out how not to do it. The next 2 fit where we wanted.
A small victory tonight, but progress is progress.
I am still hunting for a tach and oil pressure/temp gauges. Any leads? I was trying to get through to Keystone the last 2 days. I heard there was a heck of a storm in PA and it sounds like most of Lock Haven was shut down. Maybe monday...
The seat I got from Ryan (1934A) fit after some massaging so I have a place to sit when I finally get to fly. Glass should be here soon. Made a deal on a prop that's at Sensenich for refinish/rebalance. I'm slowly running out of problems to solve. I have to ship out 2 pods in the next couple weeks and build a couple more, so that will interfere with progress, but it will finance it too.
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Trying to get the new boot cowl made and the firewall flange from Clyde installed. The firewall had this notch down low with the original boot cowl flange in front of the firewall above it and below it was behind the firewall. Should I mimic that or put the flange in front all
the way around?
the way around?
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skywagon8a
MEMBER
SE Mass MA6
Do it like the original. The lip being over and then under keeps rain and oil from leaking behind the firewall, like shingles on your house.
Steve Pierce
BENEFACTOR
Graham, TX
Piper used 3003 aluminum to form the lip and make the boot cowl. I think they were worried about oil and other solvents getting behind the boot cowl and there was no access provided.
I rivet the flange all the way around the front side of firewall and lay a bead of PRC along the edge. I also install nut plates on the flange to allow boot cowl removal. I can access under the boot cowl and clean or work on as needed. A friend just redid the panel on a Super Cub with a factory boot cowl. He is now redoing the panel on a Super Cub I rebuilt 10 plus years ago with the removeable boot cowl. He said it has been way easier to work on.
I rivet the flange all the way around the front side of firewall and lay a bead of PRC along the edge. I also install nut plates on the flange to allow boot cowl removal. I can access under the boot cowl and clean or work on as needed. A friend just redid the panel on a Super Cub with a factory boot cowl. He is now redoing the panel on a Super Cub I rebuilt 10 plus years ago with the removeable boot cowl. He said it has been way easier to work on.
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Steve Pierce
BENEFACTOR
Graham, TX
RaisedByWolves
FRIEND
Tx
He doesn’t know how lucky he was that you made the boot cowl removable. It sucks to re do a panel with the stock set up
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