New kid on the block - Smith Cub

[Buzzcola777]

Looking good! Thanks for the update. I have read through your whole thread of course.

What is the width of your 3 in 1 shear? (sorry if you said and I missed it).

Any of the big tools you bought back at the start that you have found you didn't really need? Silly question, one can never have too many tools.

Scott

Hey Scott, no silly question here...
The width of this 3 in-1 shear brake roll machine is 30 inches. It did 95% of all the metal work on the cub and on a bunch of other projects as well. I highly recommend it fo a small workshop like mine.
Concerning the other tools...As you said: ''one can never have too many of them''
Cheers!
Dan

 

[Scott A]

Perfect, thanks! Was wondering if needed to jump up to the 40 inch size but looks like for what we need the 30 will do.

Hey Scott, no silly question here...
The width of this 3 in-1 shear brake roll machine is 30 inches. It did 95% of all the metal work on the cub and on a bunch of other projects as well. I highly recommend it fo a small workshop like mine.
Concerning the other tools...As you said: ''one can never have too many of them''
Cheers!
Dan

 

[skywagon8a]

Perfect, thanks! Was wondering if needed to jump up to the 40 inch size but looks like for what we need the 30 will do.

Keep in mind, aluminum comes in 48" wide sheets.

 

[Buzzcola777]

They get expensive over 30''

 

[Buzzcola777]

Fuel System - Fuel Probe & Gauge

To complete the fuel system, I wanted a dual fuel tanks display that was accurate for quick reference of each tanks's level. I bought the Princeton Capacitive Fuel Level Probe (Non-bendable). You can find this probe now under RED Avionics.


Princeton Fuel Probe


The non-bendable probe mount on top at the highest point of the fuel tank.


You have to determine the length of the probe. You measure from the bottom of the probe head to the top of the tank. Add 1/2 inch to the measurement. This is the amount to shorten the probe.


Double-check your measurements!! Cut probes cannot be exchanged or returned...


Now you drill a 1/2 inch hole in the tank in order to place the rubber grommet.
During the installation the probe will be press through the grommet.


Next step, determine the location in the tank cover and make appropriate hole to receive the probe.
Since that the probe sticks out, I have to make a cover for it. You can see the pattern here.


Still using the 3D printer, this cover fits well on the tank cover.


To complete the fuel system. I bought from Electronics International their Digital Fual Fuel Level (FL-2) all compatible with my GRT.

More to follow.
Dan

 

[frequent_flyer]

To complete the fuel system, I wanted a dual fuel tanks display that was accurate for quick reference of each tanks's level. Dan

How does your chosen system give an accurate reading for both ground and flight attitudes? Does it have two calibration curves or perhaps a continuously variable calibration based on pitch attitude?

If I had fuel probes I'd like them to be at least as useful as the sight gauges and I think that would need more data processing than available with typical off-the-shelf systems.

 

[Buzzcola777]

''Does it have two calibration curves or perhaps a continuously variable calibration based on pitch attitude?''

Well, Princeton probe stipulates that the output is 0 - 5 volts. I guess it meets the definition of variable voltage...I will be able to give you a better answer when this system is up and running. Maybe we have some players here that have the Princeton probes installed and could tell us if they satisfied with the accuracy...

 

[frequent_flyer]

Well, Princeton probe stipulates that the output is 0 - 5 volts. I guess it meets the definition of variable voltage...I will be able to give you a better answer when this system is up and running. Maybe we have some players here that have the Princeton probes installed and could tell us if they satisfied with the accuracy...

I'm sure the probe will give an accurate and repeatable output signal that depends on the immersed length. The problem is that, for any given fuel quantity (except completely full), the immersed length is strongly dependent on pitch attitude.

I'm only curious because you said "I wanted a dual fuel tanks display that was accurate for quick reference of each tanks's level". Just wondering how you were going to do it. My mind wandered off to pondering a data processing unit that received raw probe data and ADAHRS pitch and lateral acceleration signals. Could be a fun project but I doubt I would ever install the probes.

Sorry for the diversion. I'm enjoying your build reports.

 

[Buzzcola777]

Windshield & Skylight

The dreaded windshield!!! The fear of cracking it, cutting it too short and on and on...
There is an excellent video made by Backcountry Cubs that explains step-by-step the installation: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Na3UVc56HBc

WINDSHIELD


Everything has to be perfectly centered. Take your time...

Notice that the holes for the inner & outer strips are offset







CAUTION! While drilling the holes in the metal strip I drilled also the both forward fuel lines. AAARGHH!!! I had to redo
both lines!!!






To start with, I riveted in inner strip to the cowling and sat the windshield on the lip.

All strips ready to be installed. Next the outer strip is installed with machine screws

Lastly the side strips...


SKYLIGHT
For the skylight ,I bought a piece of lexan (3mm) smoke grey.


The front part is pretty well flat while the rear part has an angle to it.



The rear was heated untill I reaching a 7 Degrees angle which fits the fuselage.



I splitted a rubber grommet in two and squezzed it between the skylight and the frame (middle section).

All windows completed!

More to follow...
Dan

 

[skywagon8a]

The rear skylight part actually has three angles in it. The other two start at the forward center going aft diagonally to the trailing edge corner of the wing. Perhaps with Lexan this is not an issue.

 

[Buzzcola777]

The rear skylight part actually has three angles in it. The other two start at the forward center going aft diagonally to the trailing edge corner of the wing. Perhaps with Lexan this is not an issue.

It does not take too much heat to form it like you want. Actually, the skylight is the only piece were I used lexan.

 

[Chris Gill]

Dan, Thanks for posting all these details on your build. This information is really helpful (I'm building a Smith/Back Country Cub in Anchorage). Question: Have you checked for any interference between the forward end of your control stick torque tube and the wood flooring / carpet? The front end of my tube rubs on the wood floor panels so I'm going to have to do a little modification to the flooring.

 

[Buzzcola777]

Chris,
I had the same problem.
Instead of digging into the floor, I rounded the forward end of the torque tube as well as the torque tube connector.


Square end hitting the floor


Once the end is rounded,you now have enough clearance between the connector and the floor / carpet.
I hope that this is what you where refering to...
Dan

 

[Chris Gill]

Ooooh. I like that solution Dan. Thanks for the photos. I’ll look at this and get out the grinder when I get back to Anchorage. I also have to do a little grinding where the elevator control cable passes through a fitting on the back of the control tube and rubs..
Chris

 

[Buzzcola777]

Recap

Well, it has been a while since my last post…Lots of things happened since:

Hangar:

Bought a hangar @ St-Hubert Airport near Montreal and took about two months to get rid of all the junks / mice and be able to move my stuff in it.

Pretty amazing that the former owner took the time to paint all the wooden boards in blue...Ouf!!


Mice... Replace all ceiling lights with LED.

Next Project...

My oldest son really wanted something different to build and ask me if I would partake with him in this adventure…Hey, why not I said! So, I convince my wife to fly with me to Calgary to pick up our next project…a Titan T-51 D Mustang.7-Day drive in a rental truck to return home…Just Lovely!


Pick up in Calgary


Back Home Center section. Also the 80 gallons compressor


Hanging from the ceiling and all the boxes on left are part of the kit.

Paint Booth:
First, I tried to build a paint booth at home but it was a disaster…What a mess!



So ordered an inflatable Paint Booth and installed it at the hangar with an internal wooden structure. In case of a blackout, at least it won’t crash on the parts I just painted.


28' L x 15' W x 12' H

All lights are sealed.

1/2'' hose to the filter. One fan for the structure and the other one for fresh air.

Ready for primer!!

- I also nstalled an 80 gallons compressor with all the hoses (1/2 inch) / Couplers / Filters etc…
- Then I built a couple wing rotators.

Ekobond + Ekofill:
While fixing the hangar, I was able to do the Stewart System process to seal the weave as follow:
1) First the fabric was cleaned with EkoClean diluted at a 15:1 ratio applied with a spray bottle and a sponge.
2) The fabric should then be rinsed.with clean water. Allow the fabric to dry completely.
3) Next the Ekobond application. You need to dilute the EkoBond with distilled water at a ratio of exactly 3 parts EkoBond to 1 part. It is applied to the fabric with
a foam brush.
4) Once the fabric is sealed with EkoBond and dry, you apply the EkoFill.
5) Ekofill provides excellent ultraviolet light protection and gives an excellent base for finish coat colors. I applied 3 cross coats. Need to sand between coats ( I
used a Scotch Brite Red Pad)












More to follow...
Dan

 

[hotrod180]

View attachment 65522

Looks to me like it has two roll-up doors, with a removable partition between them?
Seems like a good way to avoid having to install an extremely expensive "hangar door".
How do you like it?

 

[skywagon8a]

Looks to me like it has two roll-up doors, with a removable partition between them?
Seems like a good way to avoid having to install an extremely expensive "hangar door".

The Twin Bee factory had the same type of doors with three panels and two moveable posts. There were no issues as I recall.

 

[supercrow]

I have that same paint booth and it works very well for me.

 

[5191H]

What brand is the portable booth?


Sent from my iPhone using SuperCub.Org

 

[tempdoug]

What brand is the portable booth?


Sent from my iPhone using SuperCub.Org

anyone use Vevor brand? lowes has those pretty reasonable.

 

[supercrow]

I have the paperwork here somewhere, I will find it and post.

 

[bcone1381]

Paint Booth: I'm curious if the air exchange rate is sufficient to keep hair and skin safety glasses clear from overspray when painting a large surface like a wing or a fuselage. I've not tried an inflatable. My DIY was had insufficient filter capacity which resulted in the filters clogging with overspray when painting large parts. Large Parts will place a high demand on a booth. Painting can kill. It would be life saving I'm sure for an Industry Best Standard DIY paint booth with a capacity for a wing/fuselage.

I hope these are the way forward, but we need real data to make informed decisions. I don't even know what data to look for....air exchange rate is one point, but filter clogging diminishes that data point.

Set up outside in the sun can take the inside temp +25 degrees F above ambient.

 

[Buzzcola777]

Looks to me like it has two roll-up doors, with a removable partition between them?
Seems like a good way to avoid having to install an extremely expensive "hangar door".
How do you like it?

Hotrod180: I really like the 2 door option compare to the folding door. Especially during winter time when you only need to bring small stuff inside...And as you mentionned, it is way less expensive.

 

[supercrow]

When I am using my booth I set it up inside a large hangar and have a large fan and duct work exiting through the man door. Plenty of air exchange to prevent overspray but I wear full suit setup with hood and outside air respirator. I may open a window or door on the other side of the hangar to allow plenty of air for exchange depending on outside air temp. We installed hooks with fabric cement to several areas in the top of the booth and hang it from the ceiling so that if you loose power the booth will not collapse. Also it allows you to shut all the pumps and fans off when done spraying so you can walk away an let it dry. We cut a round hole in the man door to put the exit air hose out through (large duct maybe 15 or so inches). Have only set it up to do large parts, wings etc.. Not a ten minute setup to do it right but you cut down on a lot of dust and other contaminants in the paint. Haven't used it enough yet to need to change filters but don't see it as a big deal. You don't need a really fine exit filter with the exit fan and are drawing air IN through the wall filters so they stay clean. It is designed to use without the large exit fan but I didn't even want to try that. I thing the fan is the key to keeping the building somewhat clear while you paint. I shine led light through the big windows from the outside and it worked well. I used a leaf blower inside after painting silver and with the outside fan blowing outdoors you can broom and blow the dust out for the next session. Your results may vary but I like it. Not a quick set up for a small job but for wings, fuselage and tail feathers it is worth the effort to try to get a good job. I bought it a year and a half ago and have not used it for a long period of time but so far it is the closest I have come to a professional booth without spending thousands of dollars. I bought it on Amazon and I will look up the name and model in the next day or to in case someone is interested. They make smaller ones but I can put a wing in this one in a rotator and have room to walk my hoses around it. And a fuselage will fit easily. I think I have around $2000 in the entire unit the way I wanted it and that's a bit more that I wanted in it but the results have been worth it.

 

[Buzzcola777]

Bcone1381
This Paint Booth from Sewinfla. It is equipped with an Elephant trunk (Air Draft Device) installed on the side and with a Vevor high velocity blower fan with a 12 inches duct hose, 16 ft long. Also i bought the Hobbyair with the paint hood so that you have continous fresh air while painting. I also installed 2 x 18'' fan at the rear of the paint booth making sure that fumes are eject outside. It works perfectly so far, no residual fumes that stays inside. I have tested the air movement inside the paint booth with an handheld anemometer (portable) and air travels @ 80 feet/sec which is what I beleive is recommanded for a downdraft (between 50 - 100 ft/sec) in real paint shop.




[h=1][/h][h=1][/h]

 

[supercrow]

That’s the same booth that I have.

 

[bcone1381]

This is video I am providing a link to is a good data point on how not to build a paint booth. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=29JZKQ1f278

Because I painted like him (sustion booth made of plastic sheething) and because I had similar results with filter clogging and airflow exchange rates, I suspect this is common amongst our EAB DIY industry. So, these posts above of additional airflow and consciously addressing the issue will save folks. I was saved becuase I used Stewarts.

Most videos are of a booth built by a first timer. They show it off before it is used. Sharing a disappointing result is uncommon and the video I share is a rare insight on common paint booth errors to avoid.

He talks in the video about feeling sick after painting and mentions Isocyanides. I did not have any issues feeling sick, but Waterborne like Stewarts System is different than Solvent Borne. My Stewarts Instructor taught me that Isocyanides are attracted to water. Stewarts thinner is water. Stewarts is far safer after mixing in the water because the isocyanides are happily bonded to it. But because a solvent born paint does not have water, the user becomes the water that the isocyanides seeks out through his/her skin, eyes and lungs. Buzzcola's pressurized Fresh Air supply into a hood (like the Hobby air in post 355) is the painter's savior along with a tyvek suite. An organic mask in the video is what Stewarts teaches was required. We had to bring our own to class.

Let be careful out there. I highjacked this Member-Projects thread with my Paint booth Q. Maybe the moderator can split this off into a "Tips and Tricks" or "Products" post.

 

[Buzzcola777]

This is video I am providing a link to is a good data point on how not to build a paint booth. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=29JZKQ1f278

Bcone 1381,

Thank you very much for your comment!
I have watched the video and the video from the same guy about ‘’Building a spray booth’’. He is all enthusiastic and cannot wait to use it but as you mentioned, the result was not what he anticipated. I was also enthused at first building my own paint booth in may garage but it quickly turned into a nightmare for me…

Your explanation concerning isocyanides is bang on. I realised (following the DIY Paint Booth disastrous experience at home) that if I wanted to paint my plane, I needed to put the money down and invest in the right equipment. It paid off…No toxic fumes floating around while painting, no headaches or shortness of breath after painting…So far so good.

About $4,000 invested in this project (Paint Booth / Hobbyair / Painting Hood), better than the $25,000 charged by a professional paint shop and the best of all is that once you are done with it, you deflate it, roll it and in the bag it goes.

Dan

 

[Hubbert41]

Any update on the cub??

 

[Buzzcola777]

Coming soon!!