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Micro AeroDynamics VG Installation

phdigger123

FRIEND
Cottage Grove, Mn
I am probably just about the last person on this site to install a set of VG's on my Super Cub, but I learned a couple of things during the installation that I would like to share. First of all, I was extremely impressed with the quality of the VG kit. It contained just about everything needed to install the VG's. It is a high quality kit.

The first thing I learned was that the templates are quite floppy and stretchy when they are pulled off of the backing sheet. The floppiness makes it difficult to get the template into position without a few wrinkles and some minor re-positioning to get things right. I found that if you placed a strip of wide masking tape across the template it was much easier to get into position without wrinkles on the first try, and it saved a lot of time.
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The second thing I discovered was that when the activator was sprayed on, a lot of overspray went onto the fabric. To eliminate this I ran a wide strip of masking tape along both sides of the template before applying the activator. This eliminated the cleanup of activator on the fabric.
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The next thing I discovered is "The bigger the glob, the better the job" does not apply to the adhesive application! Excess adhesive that squeezes out around the VG only makes a bigger mess to clean up. Also, the stick end of the clean up swabs works very well to spread the adhesive evenly on the bottom of the VG.

The final thing I would suggest is to apply 6 VG's and remove the templates from the first 4. Add 4 more VG's and remove the template from 4. This allows the glue to set adequately to hold the VG's in place, but still allows the templates to be removed easily.

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Now, if my head cold will go away and the skies clear up, I can go see how well they work!
 

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Yep easy to install

my only problem is after I took the template off-it left a residue of the template on the wing--they gave me a suggestion of cleaner but that just removed the paint--now after a couple years it looks like a faded dirty residue of a template---bummer on a new wing

i know it's not common but I did my tail feathers first and no issues--just my one experience
 
Good info. I use a piece of masking paper with holes cut in it to block the overspray from getting on the fabric. I use the xacto knife to cut around the VG prior to removing the template because sometimes I don't get them perfectly placed. I try and clean the glue around the base of the VG with the Q tips and alcohol after I have glued several on so i don't end up with a yellow edge.
 
Its worth the extra money to purchase the VG's already painted to the color you want and to avoid the activator over spray mess I spray the activator into a small cup and apply the activator to the wing with a cotton swab.
 
What I remember about my installation is that the directions were the best I have seen on anything I have worked with lately.
 
I have always sent the vg's out for anodize, I like the look and no painting required. The kit has always worked well for me right out of the box with no issues. Great kit!
 
Thanks for the timely post, I will be starting the install on my 14 this week and appreciate the tips.
 
I finally had some time to get up and explore the difference the VGs made in flight characteristics. I found it very difficult to get a spin entry to the right. I could get a spin entry to the left, but it was quite aggressive, not something that a person would accidently do.

I tried to get a moose stall. I don't know if I did it right. I used about 1800 RPM, decent bank to the left, and full left rudder. The airspeed was down below the white arc and the plane felt solid. It did not stall.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TKy2ZEoRSZg&feature=em-upload_owner

Opinion only on how my Cub performed. Don't try this stuff close to the ground!
 
Mine only took a few minutes to paint. All I did was stick them to some double sided tape, stuck to the top of a box I had cut off and I set in the same box which I had turned on its side. Sprayed, turned the cardboard around did the other side, waited, sprayed one more time and was done once it dried.
 
Most stock cubs I've flown without VGs won't spin from a stall with a low power setting, unless I help it with rudder. Did anybody ask Bob Barrows why he decided not to put VGs on his LSA hotrod?

Glenn
 
Most stock cubs I've flown without VGs won't spin from a stall with a low power setting, unless I help it with rudder. Did anybody ask Bob Barrows why he decided not to put VGs on his LSA hotrod?

Glenn

I did. He said they didn't make any difference in stall speed, but cut 2 or 3 mph in cruise speed. He said it was the airfoil.
 
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I guess Bob and I are just about the only people who do not think VGs reduce stall speed significantly. One of my buddies claimed a 15 knot stall speed reduction on a P210 the other day.

I can buy two or three knots, but I have not seen dramatic performance changes in Cubs from mods other than Borer Props and big engines. When CC restricts flaps to 35 degrees, I see a change, but I always reset them to 50 degrees.

On the spin - a good Cub ought not to spin with the ball in the center. I have found they will fly just fine fully stalled - they just shudder q bit.
 
I guess Bob and I are just about the only people who do not think VGs reduce stall speed significantly. One of my buddies claimed a 15 knot stall speed reduction on a P210 the other day.

I can buy two or three knots, but I have not seen dramatic performance changes in Cubs from mods other than Borer Props and big engines. When CC restricts flaps to 35 degrees, I see a change, but I always reset them to 50 degrees.

On the spin - a good Cub ought not to spin with the ball in the center. I have found they will fly just fine fully stalled - they just shudder q bit.
Me three.

My Cub will not spin unless the CG is near the aft limit.
 
The only guys I know of who don't sing the praises of VGs are guys who don't fly their airplanes slow enough often enough to recognize the advantages. It isn't about going to altitude and measuring stall speed, it's about slow loitering and slow approaches where any small improvement is a big deal.
 
I shoot several approaches a day at speeds where further aft movement of the stick produces a down movement of the nose. Cannot fly any slower than that. When we put Micros on the Sportsman cuff, I actually felt less comfortable at very slow speeds.
 
The only guys I know of who don't sing the praises of VGs are guys who don't fly their airplanes slow enough often enough to recognize the advantages. It isn't about going to altitude and measuring stall speed, it's about slow loitering and slow approaches where any small improvement is a big deal.

Stewart

I am in agreement with you on this one. It made a positive difference in the low speed control ability of my cub when installed.
 
Anything wrong with applying before last coat (aero thane) Kit says the vg's are already alodined? Also, what was the consistency of the glue? Mine looked like half cured silicone, but seemed to bond well.
 
The only guys I know of who don't sing the praises of VGs are guys who don't fly their airplanes slow enough often enough to recognize the advantages. ...

exactly!!! or the guys who don't know how to slow the plane & yet try to spot land before they slowed it down...
 
Easy way to paint VGs with double stick tape on paint paddles. Easy to hang onto the free end and wave around to paint all sides then just set the paddles down to dry.
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There are lots of ways to stick them down to paint them. I wouldn't like painting the wings with VGs attached. That's like having 40 little run makers and there's no advantage to warrant the risk. Maybe the good painters disagree. How much time are you allowing between coats? I don't think the first coat could be cured enough to apply VGs.

Bob, when you're slow enough that the plane drops when you pull on the yoke, add some power and raise the nose some more. The VGs will help you stay in control and you'll find your speed will be reduced. Jerry Burr and Denny Martel opened my eyes to that technique. The slat guys have taken it a few steps further but for those of us without slats, VGs serve us well. If the winds are squirrelly and you prefer to keep the nose down, no problem. They don't interfere but when conditions favor slower flight with power on they sure seem to help.
 
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I think that VGs work but I'm too cheap to find out. And I'm EX so it would only be a couple hundred to find out. I've flown a couple Top Cubs with both std and extended wings and I'm still on the fence. I come over 60 ' trees and no flaps and can do 3 to 400' with out brakes so how are VGs going to help? And then theres the whole snow on the wing thing, how do I throw a blanket over the wing tip and saw the snow off of the top of the wing?

Glenn
 
The VGs seem to make the ailerons retain a 'crisp' feeling at much slower speeds. In the PA-12, with full flaps, it feels comfortable to fly at 35 knots on the approach to short strips.
The Loctite 303 adhesive activator is available in small glass bottles with a brush attached to the lid, like nail polish bottles. It is much easier to use than the sprays in that the activator only goes where you want it to go.
It has been a nice experience to install the VGs. The kit is the most complete and with the best instructions I have ever come across.
 
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