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Lycoming O-235 will not run above 1500RPM

txfirefighter628

Registered User
Brownwood, TX
Okay guys need some help/ideas to try to figure this one out. I'm a new A&P and have tried everything I can think off except getting the carb overhauled which is about $800 and I'm not 100% sure its the problem so that's the last resort If nobody else has any other suggestions.

I went to fly my PA-12 with a O-235-C with about 200hrs SMOH in 2011(that I've owned about 1 1/2yrs and put about 100 hrs on it with no issues) the other day and it started and ran fine. While I was taxing from the hanger to take off it died. I thought it may just be a little cold so I primed it again and it started fine. Taxied to the runway and did a run up a mag check, every thing checked out good. Pulled on to the runway and throttled up, ran up to 1500 RPM and tried to die. Pulled back the throttle and it smoothed out. Did this 3 times and Pulled off the runway and tried it again a couple of times, same thing. It acts like its not getting enough fuel at the higher RPMs. If I slowly advance the throttle it will get up to 1700 RPM before it starts to stumble.

I pulled all the plugs and they were a little sooty but not fouled. Cleaned them, and checked the gaps, ohm tested and all were good. These are fairly low time plugs, autolites (which are now owned and built by tempest).

Checked the mag timing and tested the ignition leads, all good. The right Mag is a fresh overhauled that I put on in January. So I'm 99% certain that my ignition system is good. It runs the same way on both mags and runs fine at low RPM. So I'm now thinking fuel system.

I pulled the strainer bowl on the firewall and it was clean. Turned the fuel on and it flowed out fine from both tanks. Pulled the inlet screen out of the carb and checked it, was clean. Turned the fuel on and let it run through the hose from the strainer to the carb, flowed good. Did a compression test and all cylinders were 78 or higher. Pulled all the rocker box covers and checked for a sticking valve and they are all moving fine. Went and ran the plane again and still wont run above 1500 RPM.

So now I think I have it narrowed to the carb so I pulled it off and split it apart. The carb is a MA-3A and is a really simple carb. There is no accelerater pump and the only thing that really moves in the carb is the float and needle. The float seems to be floating with no leaks and the needle looks good too. I blew out all the holes and passages I could and never saw any trash come out. The bowl was clean. The bowl gasket looked good and the engine mounting gasket looked good so I put it back together. I would not return it to service without new gaskets, just put it back together to see if maybe there was some trash that may have cleaned out. Test ran and same thing, wont get above 1500 RPM. I called Marvel-Schebler tech support and talked to Mark and he said it didn't sound like a carb problem to him after telling him about all the trouble shooting I did.

Not sure if its related but I ran some 87 octane ethanol free auto gas in it the flight before this happened and it ran fine then. The plane is STC'ed for it. The first time I ran auto gas in it was about a month ago and I got 5 gallons of it from Steve Pierce in Graham and burned it all coming home and it ran fine. A new gas station in town is carrying the ethanol free fuel so I thought I'd try it. The first flight with it was last week and I flew for about 45 minutes and did several take offs and landing and the plane ran great. The next time I went to fly which was this Wednesday is when the issue started. I have the autogas in one tank and 100LL in the other and have tried running back on just 100LL with the same problem. I have a Dakota Cub fuel selector that I installed last year.

So any ideas/suggestions to try would be greatly appreacated, Thanks, Ron.
 
Did you pull the drain plug out of the bottom of the carb and let the fuel flow thru the whole system?

Glenn
 
chunk of crap under one intake valve/seat or bent intake valve... stake intake valves.... but you should be able to fell this just pulling prop through carefully..
 
Had a four wheeler acting the same way, air filter was the culprit. It was one of those smack your forehead moments.
 
Had a four wheeler acting the same way, air filter was the culprit. It was one of those smack your forehead moments.

I've had those moments too but not this time. After I pulled the carb when I put it back on I left the air filter off to test run and same results.
 
Does carb heat affect it when it's near quitting? Did you try feeding some primer? Can you repeat it in 3-point the same as in flight?
 
Does carb heat affect it when it's near quitting? Did you try feeding some primer? Can you repeat it in 3-point the same as in flight?

1. I pulled Carb heat the first time it did it but it did not seem to affect it, will try it again
2. Have not tried feeding primer while trying to run it up, will try that
3. Cant get it flying, wont make full power to take off
 
How's the mixture control feel? How does the engine react to it?

How about 1500RPM mag checks? Normal?

Mixture control is good, verified at carb. Engine reacts normally to mixture changes. Will die when full lean as normal.
1500Rpm mag checks good, 75-100 rpm drop on each
 
Was not unlocked, how do you check and see if its leaking?
Disconnect the primer from the engine and block the lines. If no change, not the trouble. If the engine end of the line is left open it will allow a leaner mixture perhaps allowing the engine to accelerate. If so it is somewhere in the primer system. The sooty plugs indicate too much fuel.
 
Seeing if you can pump fuel with the primer will be interesting. It sounds more like fuel starvation that flooding.

IF the last mogas had alcohol in it.... what might that do to seals, valves, etc?
 
oh, step one....

check oil screen/filter.... don't ask how i know this, but they are a bitch to get out once packed full of metal, as you diagnose an issue :-)(we had a cracked crankshaft that tore up everything in the 3 test flights as we tried to figure out why 185 would go flat pitch...)
 
Disconnect the primer from the engine and block the lines. If no change, not the trouble. If the engine end of the line is left open it will allow a leaner mixture perhaps allowing the engine to accelerate. If so it is somewhere in the primer system. The sooty plugs indicate too much fuel.

Will try that
 
Seeing if you can pump fuel with the primer will be interesting. It sounds more like fuel starvation that flooding.

IF the last mogas had alcohol in it.... what might that do to seals, valves, etc?

I'm wondering about the fuel too, been studying up on how to test it and looks really easy to do, will test it and try all these ideas tomorrow afternoon or Sunday, thanks for all the suggestions everybody.
 
oh, step one....

check oil screen/filter.... don't ask how i know this, but they are a bitch to get out once packed full of metal, as you diagnose an issue :-)(we had a cracked crankshaft that tore up everything in the 3 test flights as we tried to figure out why 185 would go flat pitch...)

I really don't think its that bad of an issue but will check.
 
I'm wondering about the fuel too, been studying up on how to test it and looks really easy to do, will test it and try all these ideas tomorrow afternoon or Sunday, thanks for all the suggestions everybody.

Draw a line with a sharpie an inch or so up from the bottom of a clear plastic bottle or some such vessel....fill to line with water.....add gas on top and shake it up. if separation line is above the line you drew....gas has ethanol....it mixes with water.
 
I'd really check Mike's first suggestion. A plugged exhaust acts like a choke is on. Runs rich and won't rev. New or not that is where I would check first.
 
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If you had ethanol gas in it it will suck all the moisture out of the air diluting the BTUs in the gas. I had same thing happen to my J4 after is sat for a few weeks with ethanol gas in it. 1400 RPM max at WOT. Drained gas and replaced with new and ran fine. You said you had 100LL in one tank, try switching to that tank and then drain the gas at the carb till the 100LL runs out. Just switching tanks does not mean your using whats in that tank, takes awhile to get that gas thru the whole system.
You have a header tank?

Glenn
 
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If you had ethanol gas in it it will suck all the moisture out of the air diluting the BTUs in the gas. I had same thing happen to my J4 after is sat for a few weeks with ethanol gas in it. 1400 RPM max at WOT. Drained gas and replaced with new and ran fine. You said you had 100LL in one tank, try switching to that tank and then drain the gas at the carb till the 100LL runs out. Just switching tanks does not mean your using whats in that tank, takes awhile to get that gas thru the whole system.
You have a header tank?

Glenn

No header tanks, I will drain the whole fuel system though the bottom of the carb till 100LL runs out and see if that's it.
 
Its almost certainly fuel starvation. Check the gascolator screen. If its full of debris you're going to have to pull the finger screens out of the tanks too. Disconnect the fuel line from the carb. How fast does the gas run out ?
 
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