• If You Are Having Trouble Logging In with Your Old Username and Password, Please use this Forgot Your Password link to get re-established.
  • There is no better time to show your support for SuperCub.Org than during our annual calendar campaign! All the details are HERE

Kydex interior panels

bamendala

MEMBER
Hi guys I'm thinking about using kydex interior panels on my javron. Originally I was planning on sheet metal but kydex has me intrigued. I think it will be quieter and warmer and looks better but I've never worked with it. For those of you who have what's your take? Advantages and disadvantages?Also what thickness are you using? Any input is appreciated.

Thanks Brian
 
Hi guys I'm thinking about using kydex interior panels on my javron. Originally I was planning on sheet metal but kydex has me intrigued. I think it will be quieter and warmer and looks better but I've never worked with it. For those of you who have what's your take? Advantages and disadvantages?Also what thickness are you using? Any input is appreciated.

Thanks Brian

Not positive, but pretty sure the aluminum in a thin gauge will be lighter and more durable. As for quiet, good headphones.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
It's flimsy, very little rigidity in any span. So for small panels, kick panels, wing root covers etc it's pretty nice if you can put some structure in it. A bend line or bead will stiffen it up. I don't have the numbers in front of me but I use .040 and I think it's heavier per s/f than .020 alum. It bends easy, forms nicely and has a nice finish.IMG_2053.jpgIMG_2058.jpg
 

Attachments

  • IMG_2053.jpg
    IMG_2053.jpg
    125.3 KB · Views: 78
  • IMG_2058.jpg
    IMG_2058.jpg
    203.4 KB · Views: 73
I would love the carbon concept panels in a Kevlar to avoid the electric corrosion issues and abrasion from Carbon fibre. None of that with Kydex at all In general I preffere it above all others . If you feel you need stiffeners that is easily done by gluing a small 90 degree angle on the backside.
 
Doesn’t Jay send .020 aluminum interior panels with the kit? If he did, I would use them. Light and precut. If not, Kydex is a good alternative. I’ve done two cubs using Kydex T. Make sure you get the Kydex T and not some other Kydex product. I think I used .040. The last one I did I used a product called Bolteron. It’s very similar to Kydex and I think it might be the same stuff Boeing uses on the 737. It’s ok but I like Kydex better. It’s hard to find Kydex in any other color besides black.

It cuts easily in a shear or with snips. It’s forgiving enough to bend 90 degree plus angles without cracking and I have even unbent pieces and re bent them. I think it’s a little heavier than .020 aluminum but I bet you’re talking less than a pound.

There are lots of threads on this sight regarding Kydex.

IMG_0515.jpg
IMG_1095.jpegIMG_0270.jpeg
 

Attachments

  • IMG_0515.jpg
    IMG_0515.jpg
    59.2 KB · Views: 78
  • IMG_1095.jpeg
    IMG_1095.jpeg
    121.2 KB · Views: 73
  • IMG_0270.jpeg
    IMG_0270.jpeg
    300.2 KB · Views: 79
Do a search, Mike Skup (Mikes repair)was a wizard with Kydex. It vacuum forms easily to add rigidity

Glenn
 
Thanks guys I'll look around more on the site. Probably should have done that first. KJC I didn't order the interior panels from Jay, just making them myself. Still leaning towards aluminum since that's what I'm comfortable with but I do really like the look of kydex. Those interiors look great!
 
Thanks for the compliment. Just remember if you make a phone call to Jay, they show up and all you have to do is some trimming and fitting. If you make them from Kydex, it’s an awful lot of time and work making patters out of cardboard and fitting them. Also you will need a sheet metal brake for the bends.
 
I would love the carbon concept panels in a Kevlar to avoid the electric corrosion issues and abrasion from Carbon fibre. None of that with Kydex at all In general I preffere it above all others . If you feel you need stiffeners that is easily done by gluing a small 90 degree angle on the backside.

The Kevlar would also provide the benefit of being quieter than aluminum or carbon.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
IMG_3848.jpg
I used Kydex .040. This is looking forward from back in the tail. I have a friend that used thinner Kydex. The thin stuff oil cans but I think using a bead roller to make a few ridges would solve that problem. Since I would have had to make patterns for anything I used it wasn’t a factor for me. I used light grey for the lower half and white on the upper plus the headliner. It does come in several different colors, not just black but it takes some searching. Mine shipped out of Denver. I don’t have figures for weight but it’s probably comparable to aluminum with a cloth cover. I weighed all the panels and have that information somewhere but I’d have to search. You can mold it with heat if you have an irregular shape to go around. Put on some insulated gloves, hit it with a heat gun and then just press and hold with your gloved hands for a couple minutes.

Added bonus is that you can use the scraps and a simple vacuum press to make holsters for your sidearms.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_3848.jpg
    IMG_3848.jpg
    57 KB · Views: 70
I like .040” for interior panels. Weight is equal to bare .020” aluminum.

Curbell plastics is were I bought my last sheets. They had black and white. I wanted gray but they only had it in .060”.
 
Thanks for the info and pics fellas. I'm gonna mess around with it a little bit. Curbell plastics is only a half hour away from where I live so I can run up there and grab a sheet. Thanks for throwing that name out there spinner2
 
My info is the same but I’ll add it anyhow.
I am using it, I like it, easy to use and with practice easy to form.

Will form cold but will take a better “set” formed hot, aka thermoformed.
Bend it in a brake, hot press it, vacuum form it, etc.
I bought a cheap bead roller and that works good too. Perhaps not as a good as thermo forming as I think the heat process does help retaining the shape.

I used .028 in black and I would have used 035-040 in grey but was only able to find the gray in 060. Added thickness isn’t much weight difference and is more rigid. Still like the option and would do it again.



Sent from my iPhone using SuperCub.Org
 
What's your take on the .028 for oil canning? Did you put beads in the panels? Or anything to stiffen them? Or is the oil canning not that bad? .028 would only be for the side panels floor will be thicker or aluminum
 
What's your take on the .028 for oil canning? Did you put beads in the panels? Or anything to stiffen them? Or is the oil canning not that bad? .028 would only be for the side panels floor will be thicker or aluminum

With suitable fastener spacing and edges bent, a bread roll or an inset formed I think it works great.

This was my first attempt with a bead roller where I discovered you can’t just “wing it” but it added plenty of structure.

Peter
IMG_5903.JPG


Transmitted from my FlightPhone on fingers… [emoji849]
 

Attachments

  • IMG_5903.JPG
    IMG_5903.JPG
    731.2 KB · Views: 87
There are some photos in a thread someplace showing it but here’s a couple not yet fastened, just placed in for fit up.

IMG_5510.JPG
IMG_6275.JPG
IMG_5904.JPG




Transmitted from my FlightPhone on fingers… [emoji849]
 

Attachments

  • IMG_5510.JPG
    IMG_5510.JPG
    451.5 KB · Views: 64
  • IMG_6275.JPG
    IMG_6275.JPG
    87 KB · Views: 62
  • IMG_5904.JPG
    IMG_5904.JPG
    671.6 KB · Views: 67
Does anyone have a source for Kydex

Thanks
Gary
Hey Gary, I got mine from interstate plastics. Not sure about the color selection but I did black and they had it in stock. .040 and .060. They also cut it for you if you want. I had them cut it to 2ft x 4ft sections and it saves from paying freight for shipping.

Brian
 
yes, easy to form, the non textured side releases well, both epoxy and polyester resins.
With a well waxed mold or using pva or both, the textured side would release well too I think. Given the mold probably won’t be too complex/generally a flat panel. I’ve run a very small test and the results seemed promising. Could be useful for finished composites when you don’t want a gloss finish, but more of a matte one.

I’ve been on the hunt to find a method to produce matte panels. I’ve never asked carbon concepts guy how he subdues the glossy on his panels. Anyone know how that might be done?
 
With a well waxed mold or using pva or both, the textured side would release well too I think. Given the mold probably won’t be too complex/generally a flat panel. I’ve run a very small test and the results seemed promising. Could be useful for finished composites when you don’t want a gloss finish, but more of a matte one.

I’ve been on the hunt to find a method to produce matte panels. I’ve never asked carbon concepts guy how he subdues the glossy on his panels. Anyone know how that might be done?
Clear coat with a “flattening” additive in the paint.
 
Back
Top