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Kydex Forming Interior Panels

iv spent quite some time studying the web album pics of the window trim forming and am hoping you can answer a few Qs..
1. why is the wooden d window former edge tapered and not square?
2. why the brown tape? heat protection?
3. would you have a go with .060 or too difficult?

i have tried contacting kydex but they tell me they ship in bulk not small quantities and were generally unhelpfull. id like to try and buy a few sheets in the Los Angeles area.... any ideas who could supply it? sheets



  1. Just for looks, and thought it might be easier, next I'm gonna try one with a round edge.. Like a 3/4" round over with the rorouter
  2. yes.
  3. normally I use .060, but .040 is what customer had.... Seemed to form easier with .040 but shows flaws more....

check with plastic distributors by you... They rool this stuff and send it
 
For international supply I'd call these guys. I've peeked at their site several times looking at the 16 different varieties of kydex sheet in their catalog. I can't say for sure which type we get locally in Alaska. I should look at a spare sheet I have and see if it's marked. I'd like to try some other Kydex types to see how they differ.

http://www.professionalplastics.com
 
Mike's D window forming is more difficult than he lets on. Imagine bending a semi-circle in a piece of aluminum angle. Not easy. Doing an inside radius with a 90* flange is tough in Kydex. I tried doing Cessna door pillar covers and couldn't make the bends look good enough to display so I took a different path. I'd like to play with vacuum forming. That would be fun. I never fail to notice all the interior parts in airliners and how perfectly they're formed. All a guy needs is lots of time and an abundance of money. :-)
 
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Mike's D window forming is more difficult than he lets on. Imagine bending a semi-circle in a piece of aluminum angle. Not easy. Doing an inside radius with a 90* flange is tough in Kydex. I tried doing Cessna door pillar covers and couldn't make the bends look good enough to display so I took a different path. I'd like to play with vacuum forming. That would be fun. I never fail to notice all the interior parts in airliners and how perfectly they're formed. All a guy needs is lots of time and an abundance of money. :-)

I have a big vacuum pump just for that.... Just have never built the big perforated table yet...
 
Mike, that last interior is really outstanding, your craft is just amazing, not to mention the way you share!!! thank you!!!
Can´t wait to see the top glass and fabric on that bird...
 
figured I'd take time to add some of the making it pics... rest of them at https://picasaweb.google.com/101445937433180427570/KydexInteriorForming

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I visited Mikes shop as he was working on the PA12 in Alaska, and he does fantastic work. Looks great. Kydex is the way to go. But you don't need to go to the extreme like Mike does. He has a ton of shop tools he has developed to do the job. He cut off some kydex and let me run it through a roller and I was hooked.
I have a PA12 with only a slightly extended baggage, top shelf only, and right door only. I ordered three sheets of Kydex in grey, and finished a simple interior with a sheet left over still in my kids bedroom where I did all the measuring and cutting. I bought a roller kit from Harbour Freight and it worked great with no modified rollers, but Mike's are wider and do look better. They mostly add rigidity to the sheet and narrow beads work fine. after making and installing the side panels I had enough left from the two sheets to play around and made a formed panel to replace the stock throttle cover on the left side, some holders for my headphone volume inline gizmo things, and new fuel and trim cover plates, as well as a cover for the rear of the baggage area. All simple, fun, easy to do using a propane torch, metal snippers, and your wifes oven at 220 degrees. no mess. Let her help and she will do a better job to please you. Or maybe not.
As an example I used a simple length of 1x6 and two clamps on the dinning room table to make the throttle cover and had it done well before my wife made it home from book club. See? Simple. I still have the patterns for the side panels, for a PA12,interior 006.webpinterior 007.webpinterior 009.webpinterior panels 001.webp if anyone would use them then pass them on.
 

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I visited Mikes shop as he was working on the PA12 in Alaska, and he does fantastic work. Looks great. Kydex is the way to go. But you don't need to go to the extreme like Mike does. He has a ton of shop tools he has developed to do the job. He cut off some kydex and let me run it through a roller and I was hooked.
I have a PA12 with only a slightly extended baggage, top shelf only, and right door only. I ordered three sheets of Kydex in grey, and finished a simple interior with a sheet left over still in my kids bedroom where I did all the measuring and cutting. I bought a roller kit from Harbour Freight and it worked great with no modified rollers, but Mike's are wider and do look better. They mostly add rigidity to the sheet and narrow beads work fine. after making and installing the side panels I had enough left from the two sheets to play around and made a formed panel to replace the stock throttle cover on the left side, some holders for my headphone volume inline gizmo things, and new fuel and trim cover plates, as well as a cover for the rear of the baggage area. All simple, fun, easy to do using a propane torch, metal snippers, and your wifes oven at 220 degrees. no mess. Let her help and she will do a better job to please you. Or maybe not.
As an example I used a simple length of 1x6 and two clamps on the dinning room table to make the throttle cover and had it done well before my wife made it home from book club. See? Simple. I still have the patterns for the side panels, for a PA12,View attachment 10652View attachment 10653View attachment 10654View attachment 10655 if anyone would use them then pass them on.

Looks great!
 
so, had FUN doing another interior for an UGLY -12 with no interior.. not a fancy no-budget job, just a make it better job(with a budget)...

pictures start here https://picasaweb.google.com/101445937433180427570/KydexInteriorForming#5867873997023092498 before and afters....

amazing stuff, he got it for $69 a sheet, used 2 sheets to do all the lower panels and what a difference it made...

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WTF up the handles? I made the new placards from the old ones?????
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zillion more pictures at https://picasaweb.google.com/101445937433180427570/KydexInteriorForming#
 

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add picSo i have recently gotten into the hydrographics biz.. they had always said that we can apply direct to kydex and tues was the first shot... this is a very ink intensive print and was put on a med tan color kydex... no basecoat paint or clear coat... we tried scratching it off but it burned into the plastic well just as if it were abs. these holsters seem to becoming very popular with the ease of forming kydex. talking to the holster maker there are several other pre printed kydex out there but some are silk screened and scratched off easily... I didnt have any wood grains on hand but we dipped several patterns of camo and worked well


cant get pic to upload from pc.. it lets me browse but not complete

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so I took a couple days off the paying project to play with making some shop tools for forming the kydex.... well, this is just a practice one as i will not use this size for my fuel valve plate/cutout....

look on my face book for all the failures along the way... I only added the stuff that worked pictures to my picasa... I am very happy with this experiment...

so this is also my first time shaping MDF, and it is way more than adequate for forming kydex molds.... I used my mill, but i bet if you are good with a wood router you can duplicate this easily..

did I mention I am happy with the results?, I am NEVER happy with such ! :-)

next post will contain pictures of it.... more at my picasa below in kydex album,
 
small practice piece, this is for a normal size fuel valve panel 5 1/2 by 7 1/2".. the panel will have lips on it to fit in grove, its hard to tell in photo but panel will also be flush with surroundings.. I might even do flush screws while I am at it....
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this is a top mold I finally had to make to press into the kydex to get the shape and detail i wanted... at first i made the lower mold to try to just vacuum form it, but that would not give the detail I needed around edges... this piece is MDF
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kinda shows bottom mold... that is the failed vac forming mold, it does NOT need to be so complex as this.... just needs to be a mirro image with allowance for the kydex thickness
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i did this small test in my press(heated plastic with heat gun) then just used this to clamp it, no real pressure from press.. A couple pairs of long reach C vise grips could do the job of holding plates together till the kydex cools....
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BUT!!! since I have THIS massive 3" solid steel thing in my shop I am working on adding a table to it, and will just have a Lever/broom stick on top to press the plunger down..(not gonna use the big pneumatic cylinders on top..)
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now i just need to make the real molds for the shapes I really need, this was just a test.... proof of concept... be a good job for a cmc router...
 
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Nice looking work Mike. I hate "carpenter" work. What was the C frame for and what's it weigh?
 
What was the C frame for and what's it weigh?

it was military surplus....

built in 1955 to "hot" dimple aircraft skins for rivets.. it cost the gov $9542.00 in back then dollars $$$ the de-mil sticker on it says..

it 3" solid steel.. 36" throat depth.. I wanted to adapt to projects like this and many others(I use it in the 3/8" piper channel forming)...

I doubt I'll bend it easy :-) It made the building/slab creak when i brought it in.....
 
Fantastic work on the Kydex things. Really nice finish product you are doing!

You have too much time and nice tools to play with... ;-)


Thanks for sharing.
 
worked some more on the prototype from a month ago... turned out ok, taught me what i need to know to build the real molds... more pictures in my picasa or Facebook.. below

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just had a heck of an idea..(I think..)

instead of screwing around with the presses....

a few well placed TEE nuts, bolts and my impact air gun would clamp this up nice after heating the plastic.....
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/T-nut

or so I will test.... but i think this will be much less work and doable by any one.....

just started making full size molds on my day "off" today... pictures on my Facebook.....
 
Ah. It would make sense that you wouldn't want the entire area heated. Once it is heated, how much time do you have to form it?
 
Ah. It would make sense that you wouldn't want the entire area heated. Once it is heated, how much time do you have to form it?

as quick as you can it cools off pretty quick... I think I have a plan, just need to order another form of heating element from http://www.briskheat.com

(edit just ordered [FONT=Arial, Tahoma, verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif] HWC High Temperature Heating Cords-6ft (1.8m) length; 355 watts; 120VAC; PN: HWC1060 ... will see if that works hooked up to a temp controller I already own..)[/FONT]
 
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