• If You Are Having Trouble Logging In with Your Old Username and Password, Please use this Forgot Your Password link to get re-established.
  • Hey! Be sure to login or register!

How to rebuild a tailwheel

Bill Rusk

BENEFACTOR
Sandpoint, Idaho
Folks

This may have been posted here before but here goes anyway. Here are some links to some GREAT short videos by Steve Pierce on how to rebuild a Scott/Alaska Bushwheel 3200 tailwheel. Thanks to Steve for putting these together and for sharing them.

Bill

Scott T/W
Disassembly
Inspection


Assembly







Setup

 
Last edited:
Bill-

If you click this:video.webp, you can put the link to the video in and it will look like this:

 

Attachments

  • video.webp
    video.webp
    312 bytes · Views: 4,659
I do it the easier way. Box it up, send it to Wup, wait a few days and get the box back with a rebuilt tailwheel. It even works when a casting is cracked. Pretty slick. AK Bushwheel is a great resource for general aviation.

SB
 
Mrs. Torch and I watched the vid and even enjoyed watching Steve's cat get into the act.
 
Thanks for the vidio, I am just getting my Baby Bushwheel together and this film of Steve explaining how to assemble ect. Really helped. Can't stress enough how everyone should learn how to do this, It could really get you out of a mess out in the bush someday. Just knowing how the assembly works and what to do. Thanks Bill Rusk

Bill
 
How much play should there be on the steering arm before it makes contact with the spring or is there a known distance between the ledges of the steering arm and the spring. my wheel seems as though it is very slow reacting to my pedals
 
Just put my tail wheel back on and it works like a champ. Turns good and no vibration. I like the Baby bush wheel

Bill
 
still need some hell

I have the correct play in the springs connected to the arm. The play that i have in question is when the tailwheel is completely off the plane. You are holding the wheel in the left hand and grab the steering arm with your right. How much play is there supposed to be rotationally before the steering arm starts to rotate the wheel. When the top is off the mechanism how much space is between the locking spring and the shelf that it engages.

Thank you
eric
 
There is a little play. Hard to tell you how much. Take a picture of the parts assembled and post. Might give a better idea of what you have. They do wear out the grooves in the steering arms.
 
Take it apart, clean it, inspect and replace what's worn out. You probably need to install the "long pawl" so that it will break free sooner. Then you should rig it properly so that there is not much tension on the chain. Too much tension on the chain and it's fighting its self when trying to get the tail wheel to caster. If your tailwheel leaf springs are flattening out and you don't have the proper castor angle on the tailwheel that can add to the problems you're having. If you don't want to mess with taking the tailwheel apart you can ship it to AK bushwheels and they will rebuild it and set it up properly.


Jason
 
The compression spring (22) is probably getting hung up in the notch in the steering arm (10). Take the nut (20) off of the pivot shaft and pull the head off of the fork but leave everything else installed. Look straight down on the top of the fork and you will see the compression spring and the grooves that they lock into. The pawl (11) that Jason mentions is what pushes the compression spring out of the notches to unlock the tailwheel.
Tailwheel Parts Breakdown

Tailwheel disassembly, inspection and reassembly videos.
 
My Scott 3200 T/W will break and castor one way but not the other way?
Same problem here, so I finally ordered the ABW rebuild kit. It came the other day in a very nicely organized package, and with a free bag of nuts. The directions were microscopic though, so will look through the video Steve posted and if I feel capable I might give it a try myself, otherwise I'll wait for our New England celebrity pilot/IA Tom Ford to return from Texas and just add this to his growing to-do pile.
 
I had the same symptoms. In my case, the notches in the steering arm assembly were rounded on one side such that the compression spring would roll right over. Planning to replace the original 3214 with a surplus 3214T. You will also need the heavy duty dust caps if you go this route. I believe the notches can be dressed, but the more material you remove, the sloppier things will get. I also found this nice crack in the fork... Replacement will be coming from ABW.

tw1.webp
 

Attachments

  • tw1.webp
    tw1.webp
    394.9 KB · Views: 580
Mike, I hadn't seen them cracked there before. Thanks for the picture.

Posted Using the Free SuperCub.Org Android App!
 
Was rebuilding a Scott 3200 tail wheel this morning and found something I hadn't seen before. Thought I would merge some other threads and try to get a lot of this information together. Here is the geometry picture.
Geometry.webp
 

Attachments

  • Geometry.webp
    Geometry.webp
    29.7 KB · Views: 6,009
A crack I have never seen before.
Cracked Fork aft view.webp

Cracked Fork top view.webp

Cracked Fork inside view.webp
 

Attachments

  • Cracked Fork aft view.webp
    Cracked Fork aft view.webp
    106.3 KB · Views: 4,804
  • Cracked Fork top view.webp
    Cracked Fork top view.webp
    104.6 KB · Views: 4,741
  • Cracked Fork inside view.webp
    Cracked Fork inside view.webp
    121.3 KB · Views: 4,560
Back
Top