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Hot Running O-200A TCM engine help?

Pokette

Registered User
Chesterfield, Missouri
My engine consistently runs hot - 220 and above. I have only the oil temperature gauge.
It takes about 15 minutes - regardless of ambient temperature to reach 220, and then continues up to 220 and sometimes 230 if i'm not careful.

I have the new oil cooler plenum installed. I did not notice an oil temperature drop.

I have run with aeroshell, Phillips and now exon extreme - none made a difference.

I was wondering if anyone else is experiencing the same problem?
Is there anyone out there with a dynon or more instrumentation that has an idea about cylinder head temps or exhaust temps possibly in a S2?

Anyone with some ideas (on how to cool it down)?

I know I can mess around with baffeling (more air through the cylinders to cool the oil, and more air to the cooler), new oil cooler (have to adjust the plenum myself), and air egress (lip extension etc.). I do not have any instrumentation other than oil temp so i'm hoping someone out there have more information or CubCrafters has tested some of these ideas.

Did you all know that TCM recommends an "ideal" temperature range of 175-195?
They also quote a max temperature of 225?

Also can anyone tell me what consistently running hot will do to my engine? Excessive wear? Shorter TBO? - what are the effects?

Thanks for any help.
Diana
 
10* to 20* less than the max allowable of 240*? Are you sure you actually have aproblem or is it a perception issue? Where is the green arc on the gauge - centered or over towards full scale giving an impression of temps about to go "off the scale"?

Is your temp gauge really accurate?

If you call TCM or Mattituck or CC what do they say about your temps? I'd think you need CC's blessing to modify anything on an LSA.

Maybe I'm being pedantic about this, but I have seen over and over people expending money and effort trying to fix problems that really aren't there.

John Scott
 
Diana, a friend of mine with a plane just like yours is coming to New Holstien, you can compare notes with him. I'd ask him now, but he's in Alaska.

Tim
 
I think I said in my original post that TCM recommends 225 max and ideal 175-195 and I run 220. As far as I know the gauge is accurate. That is why I posted to see if I will get excessive wear or what others have encountered before I spend any money trying to fix something. I got the numbers talking to TCM.
 
TCM says the max temperature is 225 and I am above that so I think it is a problem. My POH says max temperature is 240 and so far I have not heard why my POH is different than what TCM says.

No worries John :D
 
My Continental 0200 operators manual dated 12/80 says 225 max oil temp for what its worth. Ck your PM's and see the discussion on C90 oil temps. Jim
 
Oil temp.

Diana, just a question. I know you mentioned the bottom cowl lip, but I'm not familiar with the size, angle, etc.. on the one on your machine. I do know however that I personally have lowered oil temp on cubs and champs over the years by just making changes (generally larger) to the bottom cowl lip. Most of the more successfull changes gave as much as 20 to 30 degrees difference which is everything at the numbers you are talking. How does the bottom cowl configuration on yours compare with say a PA-11 or PA-18-90? I may be way off base but thought I would ask. Good luck with your issue; if your numbers are accurate I agree with you that I would like to see it at 190 or 200. How are other legend owners doing with the same setup? Reid
 
Reid, I think you are right on target. Take a look at the pictures in my gallery, there might be one there. Compared to a PA-16 and a PA-17 (I just started looking closely at cowlings) mine is tiny, and they stuck the 4 exhaust stacks in the egress area. The lip is at about 30 degrees, and on the vagabond and clipper closer to 90 - A huge difference to me, especially seeing how small the egress area is. I would love to see 20 to 30 degree drop and it seems the only way is to increase the delta p!

I am reluctant to make changes to my cowling as i'm sure the replacement if I make a mistake is sure to be very very expensive!
 
If you can get the cowling clean enough you can play around with some aluminum or lexan bent profiles and start with the blue 2'' painters tape and then a duct or gorrilla tape on top of the blue stuff for reinforcement, start with a 1/2'' lip and go from there.

Glenn
 
Yes, we have thought of that, but I think the opening is tooooo small, and I am reluctant to cut :(

We will start with the tape and see method I think after NH
 
Supercrow, I have an 0200 in a PA-18-95 cowl that runs hot. Could you explain how you changed a Cub cowl to improve cooling? Thanks, Jim
 
Cooling

Hi Jim. I have good luck with enlarging the lip (deeper by an inch or so-sometimes a little more) and bending a little more angle in the lip. I actually have seen more dramatic improvement on champ cowls, but on my own (exp. cub) I had trouble with cooling when I first put it together about l4 yrs ago and I increased the depth of the lip to about 2" and saw almost 30 degree improvement in about 30 minutes on the same day. The bottom cowl as I first fabricated it had only about 3/4" lip and it wasn't enough and I think the air just rolls around in that area instead of exiting cleanly. I'm not an engineer and don't pretend to know just what happens there but I have purposely tried it with no lip and it will run hotter as a general rule. Good luck and let me know how you make out. I'm sure some of our engineers in the group can tell us what is happening, but I know from experience that you can change the temp by playing with the bottom cowl in that area. Reid
 
I have about 3/4"-1" of lip in the center of the outlet only. It is not real smooth and I will address that. I think I will also add a little lip on the sides of the outlet which is now flat with no lip. Thanks for the advice. Jim
 
The bigger the lip the lower the pressure behind it, so by making the lip bigger the exit between the lower cowl and the boot cowl will act like a big vacuum sucking more warm air out from under the cylinders so that more cooler air entering on top of the cylinder will be sucked past the cylinders to replace the air being sucked out below the cylinders and hopefully taking more heat away from the cylinders, sump, and crankcase. At least that's what I think it does.

Glenn
 
I would first double check the gauge accuracy before I went any further.Does it run hot at all power settings?Has it been like this since new?
I second fobjob as far as cyl temps.
If the mixture is a little lean or the ignition timing incorrect it will run hot.

My 0-200 in my Legend has run up near those temps but only in very hot 90+ ambient temps and that is without an external oil cooler.It normally runs 185-190.

I remember you had some cyl problems.Was it running hot then?

Bill
 
Hey sorry to say the only engine instruments I have are oil temp and oil pressure - no CHT or EGT.

4 new cylinders from TCM put on about 40 hours ago. Working great.

It was running hot since new.
 
diana

If you go to cubcrafters forum cc11-160, I think they are working on your problem. They also are having a thermo problem.

Mark
 
How many hours did the old cylinders have on them?????? :o

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Question 2: Does your engine even have an oil cooler, or any blast tube or vent blowing on the oil reservoir? :crazyeyes:

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Question 3: Does your engine have a big open space in front that lets the high pressure air escape to the low pressure side, like the super cub does??? :drinking:
 
first cylinder went bad at 130, second at 220, TCM then gave me 4 new ones.

Yes, It has a blast tube onto the oil cooler that is mounted on the firewall.

Today a test was run with a lip extension "duck" taped and the result was 20 degrees cooler.

I think we will keep experimenting with that. Pictures tomorrow or soon :D
 
Mark,
the cc11-160 is a lycoming engine and the cowling and accessories are different - they do not translate to the S2.

With the new airplanes and the layed up carbon fiber cowlings being so tight there is an airflow issue.
 
Diana,

With our Oil Cooler STC on these small Continentals we have had reports of 20 to 35 degrees oil temp differnences and that is mainly in the size of the Scat hose going to the cooler. 2" hose results the 20 degree difference, 3" hose the 35. I do not know what size of ducting the S2 uses, but if it is a smaller hose you may want to try and up the size and see the results. We also use a 7 core cooler.

Cub Crafters tested our system on the S2 but decided to make thier own adaptor for weight reasons.

Brian.
 
Have you considered trying the 9 row oil cooler CC has been testing? I hear they have lowered oil temps by 20-30F.

Lou
 
I considered the 9 row oil cooler, but your numbers are high - they say 10-15 degrees.
 
O-200 Oil Temps

The difference in the published maximum oil temperatures for the O-200 is due to the type of oil used. Mineral oil has a maximum temp of 225 and modern (detergent) oil has a maximum temp of 240 degrees. Look at the type certificate for the engine E-252 and you can find why CC uses 240.

I had heard a rumor that Cessna had similar oil temp problems in the 150 and that their FAA blessed solution was a blast tube pointed at the screen/temp bulb housing. This was to keep the housing cooler and allow the sensor to measure oil temp and not the housing temp. I don't have easy access to a 150 here, but if you have one at your airport you might see if a cool air blast tube is directed at the oil screen housing.

Jim
O-200 powered PA18 replica under construction
 
Thanks for the oil info Jim, But with that correction for the Cessna aren't you just cooling the probe? Not a real fix to hot running engine.
 
here are a couple of pictures of the lip extension test:

DSC_2760.JPG


DSC_2761.JPG


DSC_2762.JPG
 
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