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Horizontal stabs are stuck, can't budge them for removal

I don't have a part number handy, but a single or double bolt steel clamp for the correct diameter tube. Drill a small hole and tig weld a nut, install a grease fitting. Then install the clamp around the tube aligning with the oil hole. Would be a easy job.

Sharp

good idea!
probably 7/8 which is a 7p
 
Glad you got it done Alex. This will be a good lesson for others who will see that this is not an impossible task.

Hacksaw off flush, then cut slot in inner tube long way with hacksaw blade since Plane is covered

Normal way is heat but you have fabric on

Once the 'slot' is cut, it is pretty simple to collapse the rear inner tube ("liner" tube, per Piper nomenclature) into itself and remove it. You will likely need to replace the rusty "liner" by this stage anyway.

This is usually the quickest and easiest method, though seemingly, the most extreme measure, but will work every time, and you wont need to damage the fuselage with beating on the rusty tube or take time for KROIL< OIL< BLASTER, or a torch, nor will you damage the stabilizer inboard rib by
"rotating the stabilizer" as a lever on the rusty rear tube. (been there!)

I think much of "Sharp"'s idea to weld a grease zerk onto a clamp to go over the rear fuselage mount. I'd think you'd need to epoxy it in place as well to alleviate chances of grease leakage where the clamp lays.

DAVE
 
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Mike ive seen zercs welded to tubes, can a tig welder work with that fine of stuff? Ive heard they can weld a crack in a pop can? Never seen it done though.
 
Use a little common sense ...P..lease :)

I think we all understand it'd be a welded nut or threaded boss for the zerk to thread into.
 
Nope, it did not stay there long... I was all happy with myself and was screwing the zerk into the epoxied nut..... It was actually pretty tight and I decided to see if I could get another quarter wrench-turn so the 45 degree angle zerk would be facing to one side... that was when the epoxy said it had more than it could handle...
 
Alex, in our Farmers Union i seen a fitting that was punch shaped that you take the regular end of the grease gun hose and put this on. Its not the needle type more v shaped, but something that looked like it could be pushed and held on to the small grease hole and you could get grease in the tube. Then when done put a small piece of tape over the hole so moisture dosent get in? Working through the inspection plate theres not a lot of room but i think it would work especially with a electric grease gun. maybe google a search on grease gun fittings?
 
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Whatever you weld/clamp/glue back there, make sure it doesn't restrict the elevator bellcrank movement, I have seen this problem.
 
Whatever you weld/clamp/glue back there, make sure it doesn't restrict the elevator bellcrank movement, I have seen this problem.

I was wondering about that too with clamp version.... Didn't have one with tail on to see....

Welded on nut is fine, do it to every one...
 
The nut is now welded in place. I could not reach the back area with the MIG, so I used epoxy around the back side area to keep the grease from squirting out around the nut.
 
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