TxAgfisher
Registered User
East Texas
What is everyone using to touch up the leather cable rub pieces and/or trim?
I use the Stewarts glue for everything including leather. Amazing stuff.
View attachment 66653 https://stewartsystems.aero/product-category/fabric-covering/wet-goods/
For what paint? I’d use contact cement.
That was a bad picture. This is it. EkobondWhen I go to there site it doesn't have that product - you think it is the same as this?
https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/cspages/cecobond.php?clickkey=777833
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They tell me Stewarts is 3M-30 N water-base contact cement. Clean-up is quite easy; Stewarts even sells an eraser for dried cement. Try that first. I am also finding that Bargs is quite good for attaching leather to things - I did the pillar posts on a 180 in grey deerskin that way, and they turned out really well.
The best way to do those leather patches is to use canvas instead, and encapsulate them with a doily of Ceconite prior to the final clear coats. Then they never peel, and you do not have that unsightly patch of different color leather to look at. But to do that, you need to pull the cables, and get the slot exactly where it is supposed to be. I can probably get a photo of a fifty-year-old rudder patch with maybe 5000 hours on it. If I remember . . .
You can easily buy a quart of Stewart’s and a quart of 3M. Compare them. If there is anything other than the place of mixing that is different between the two, you will be hard-pressed to figure it out.
Leather exit patch glued and stitched to a piece of fabric then glued to the covering. View attachment 66673
When making a repair, you can glue directly onto our paint by just scuffing the surface and applying the Ekobond to both surfaces and then applying it to the surface. I'm not sure how that would work on a solvent surface. To repair a solvent painted surface, our STC calls for sanding the topcoat to silver then gluing the patch with EkoBond followed by EkoFill and either our top coat or whatever is on the aircraft (for a minor repair). A leather patch would be very similar. The key after the repair is to paint the surface; encapsulating the edge of the fabric. Otherwise, it would be too easy to peel back the patch. I thinking painting the leather past it's the edge would help keep it inplace.tried bargs, dont waste your time. marty what would you recommend, pliobonds not the greatest either.
I did a couple examples; pictures below. I did one on a painted surface and one on EkoFill (the UV coating). I scuffed the paint and the Ekofill and traced my leather. I coated the leather once, let tack up and than did it again. I coated the fabric, also letting it tack up. When no transfer, I stuck the leather to the fabric and used the tip of my iron to help set the glue; iron was at 250 degrees. The bond is really good but, by itself, not permanent. Bare leather will absorb water and shrink and expand, especially in cold, freezing environments. From this point on my samples, the one on EkoBond can be painted as the rest of the surface is painted. If gluing on to a painted surface, it's treated like any patch. Catalyze (mix) some paint and apply with a brush about 1/4" past the edge of the leather. Make sure the paint is scuffed where the new paint will be applied. Since Stewart Systems is STC'd to repair all other systems, this should work. On a solvent based top coat sand the topcoat down to the silver before applying a patch or leather. Here's a few pictures. The first is on a painted surface, second is on EkoFill.heres a idea. but how will the glue stick to something painted?
The ones I did with Stewarts glue started coming off a year or so later.I did a couple examples; pictures below. I did one on a painted surface and one on EkoFill (the UV coating). I scuffed the paint and the Ekofill and traced my leather. I coated the leather once, let tack up and than did it again. I coated the fabric, also letting it tack up. When no transfer, I stuck the leather to the fabric and used the tip of my iron to help set the glue; iron was at 250 degrees. The bond is really good but, by itself, not permanent. Bare leather will absorb water and shrink and expand, especially in cold, freezing environments. From this point on my samples, the one on EkoBond can be painted as the rest of the surface is painted. If gluing on to a painted surface, it's treated like any patch. Catalyze (mix) some paint and apply with a brush about 1/4" past the edge of the leather. Make sure the paint is scuffed where the new paint will be applied. Since Stewart Systems is STC'd to repair all other systems, this should work. On a solvent based top coat sand the topcoat down to the silver before applying a patch or leather. Here's a few pictures. The first is on a painted surface, second is on EkoFill.
Marty57
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Did you topcoat the leather? That would be the best; than it's just like any patch. Without a top coat I think it will come off. I can peel off this piece of leather but it tears the leather, leaving some of it still stuck to the surface. Topcoating and encapsulating the edge should hold. On the test I did yesterday, the hold on EkoFill was stronger than on the painted surface. Best application would be to glue it on bare fabric like fabric over an inspection ring, than paint over it. I'll tear off the pieces from yesterday and see how it held up.The ones I did with Stewarts glue started coming off a year or so later.
Here’s a solution.
marty, curious as what you use to wipe the plane fabric with first before the glue in the leather grommet spot? i did 3 of them about a year ago and so far the stewarts is holding. outlined the grommet with a pencil then scuffed the fabric up with a small piece of scotchbrite pad then put a coat on each and let it dry and then put another coat on and let that dry and then used my modeling iron to warm everything up. tried pliobond and barge, they didnt work. don jones on ebay has some nice grommets for a little over a buck and a half each. and offers all different shapes and sizes. https://www.ebay.com/itm/1767504242...G5P73V&hash=item29272570c0:g:NwAAAOSwdf9nZuD-Did you topcoat the leather? That would be the best; than it's just like any patch. Without a top coat I think it will come off. I can peel off this piece of leather but it tears the leather, leaving some of it still stuck to the surface. Topcoating and encapsulating the edge should hold. On the test I did yesterday, the hold on EkoFill was stronger than on the painted surface. Best application would be to glue it on bare fabric like fabric over an inspection ring, than paint over it. I'll tear off the pieces from yesterday and see how it held up.
Marty