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Favorite fabric safe adhesive?

I use the Stewarts glue for everything including leather. Amazing stuff.

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3M 1300 works great, but be careful, as it’s yellow and sticks to everything.


Sent from my iPhone using SuperCub.Org
 
They tell me Stewarts is 3M-30 N water-base contact cement. Clean-up is quite easy; Stewarts even sells an eraser for dried cement. Try that first. I am also finding that Bargs is quite good for attaching leather to things - I did the pillar posts on a 180 in grey deerskin that way, and they turned out really well.

The best way to do those leather patches is to use canvas instead, and encapsulate them with a doily of Ceconite prior to the final clear coats. Then they never peel, and you do not have that unsightly patch of different color leather to look at. But to do that, you need to pull the cables, and get the slot exactly where it is supposed to be. I can probably get a photo of a fifty-year-old rudder patch with maybe 5000 hours on it. If I remember . . .
 
They tell me Stewarts is 3M-30 N water-base contact cement. Clean-up is quite easy; Stewarts even sells an eraser for dried cement. Try that first. I am also finding that Bargs is quite good for attaching leather to things - I did the pillar posts on a 180 in grey deerskin that way, and they turned out really well.

The best way to do those leather patches is to use canvas instead, and encapsulate them with a doily of Ceconite prior to the final clear coats. Then they never peel, and you do not have that unsightly patch of different color leather to look at. But to do that, you need to pull the cables, and get the slot exactly where it is supposed to be. I can probably get a photo of a fifty-year-old rudder patch with maybe 5000 hours on it. If I remember . . .

Bob,
I don't know who "they"are that you are referring to but our glue is not 3m glue. Our Stewarts System EkoBond is made entirely in house in Ohio and meets the requirements of the STC. I'm not sure what the glue is marked CECObond; it's not Ekobond glue. E610 comes in green, and E610L is a cream colored for the look of old linen. The L610 is without the green dye; obviously not the 3-M glue.

Marty57

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I used Pliobond before I stumbled on to Bargs. But Bargs seems better - used by shoemakers.

Marty is correct, of course. You cannot use 3M-30N for a certificated repair. But gluing these patches on is probably really low on the list of minor repairs. You can easily buy a quart of Stewart’s and a quart of 3M. Compare them. If there is anything other than the place of mixing that is different between the two, you will be hard-pressed to figure it out.
 
I have used Stewarts glue and 3M all purpose weather-strip adhesive on my leather cable exit patches and they keep coming off. I think I will try Pliobond since I have it. Bargs if that doesn't work.
 
I have used Stewarts glue and 3M all purpose weather-strip adhesive on my leather cable exit patches and they keep coming off. I think I will try Pliobond since I have it. Bargs if that doesn't work.
Leather exit patch glued and stitched to a piece of fabric then glued to the covering. 20230815_105147.webp
 

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Pliobond used to be the standard. I think they changed it about two decades ago. "Top and Landau" is what the pros now use. Bargs is used by shoemakers.

If you just look at Bargs and Pliobond, you would be hard-pressed to tell the difference. But apparently there is a difference.
 
You can easily buy a quart of Stewart’s and a quart of 3M. Compare them. If there is anything other than the place of mixing that is different between the two, you will be hard-pressed to figure it out.

Again, Bob knows nothing about our products or how they are produced. EkoBond and 3m glues are both green and that's the only similarity between the two. One is a contact cement (3m) and one is designed to attach aircraft fabric, EkoBond. They are not the same product. I'm not sure what else I can say to convince Bob Turner otherwise, but he is incorrect in his evaluation of EkoBond.
Marty57
 
tried bargs, dont waste your time. marty what would you recommend, pliobonds not the greatest either.
When making a repair, you can glue directly onto our paint by just scuffing the surface and applying the Ekobond to both surfaces and then applying it to the surface. I'm not sure how that would work on a solvent surface. To repair a solvent painted surface, our STC calls for sanding the topcoat to silver then gluing the patch with EkoBond followed by EkoFill and either our top coat or whatever is on the aircraft (for a minor repair). A leather patch would be very similar. The key after the repair is to paint the surface; encapsulating the edge of the fabric. Otherwise, it would be too easy to peel back the patch. I thinking painting the leather past it's the edge would help keep it inplace.

Your picture with the patch stitched to fabric and glued in place looks like a really good idea. The leather is is similar to an inspection ring in that case.

I have some leather and some panels from my last seminar; let me try a couple different approaches and report back. I'll have to do the same on my wing when I cover it.

Marty
 
heres a idea. but how will the glue stick to something painted?
I did a couple examples; pictures below. I did one on a painted surface and one on EkoFill (the UV coating). I scuffed the paint and the Ekofill and traced my leather. I coated the leather once, let tack up and than did it again. I coated the fabric, also letting it tack up. When no transfer, I stuck the leather to the fabric and used the tip of my iron to help set the glue; iron was at 250 degrees. The bond is really good but, by itself, not permanent. Bare leather will absorb water and shrink and expand, especially in cold, freezing environments. From this point on my samples, the one on EkoBond can be painted as the rest of the surface is painted. If gluing on to a painted surface, it's treated like any patch. Catalyze (mix) some paint and apply with a brush about 1/4" past the edge of the leather. Make sure the paint is scuffed where the new paint will be applied. Since Stewart Systems is STC'd to repair all other systems, this should work. On a solvent based top coat sand the topcoat down to the silver before applying a patch or leather. Here's a few pictures. The first is on a painted surface, second is on EkoFill.
Marty57

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I did a couple examples; pictures below. I did one on a painted surface and one on EkoFill (the UV coating). I scuffed the paint and the Ekofill and traced my leather. I coated the leather once, let tack up and than did it again. I coated the fabric, also letting it tack up. When no transfer, I stuck the leather to the fabric and used the tip of my iron to help set the glue; iron was at 250 degrees. The bond is really good but, by itself, not permanent. Bare leather will absorb water and shrink and expand, especially in cold, freezing environments. From this point on my samples, the one on EkoBond can be painted as the rest of the surface is painted. If gluing on to a painted surface, it's treated like any patch. Catalyze (mix) some paint and apply with a brush about 1/4" past the edge of the leather. Make sure the paint is scuffed where the new paint will be applied. Since Stewart Systems is STC'd to repair all other systems, this should work. On a solvent based top coat sand the topcoat down to the silver before applying a patch or leather. Here's a few pictures. The first is on a painted surface, second is on EkoFill.
Marty57

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The ones I did with Stewarts glue started coming off a year or so later.
 
The ones I did with Stewarts glue started coming off a year or so later.
Did you topcoat the leather? That would be the best; than it's just like any patch. Without a top coat I think it will come off. I can peel off this piece of leather but it tears the leather, leaving some of it still stuck to the surface. Topcoating and encapsulating the edge should hold. On the test I did yesterday, the hold on EkoFill was stronger than on the painted surface. Best application would be to glue it on bare fabric like fabric over an inspection ring, than paint over it. I'll tear off the pieces from yesterday and see how it held up.
Marty
 
I pulled off the two pieces of leather I glued yesterday with EkoBond. The piece glued to the paint pulled off the paint and EkoFill attached to the leather; the glue did not come loose. The piece bonded directly to the EkoFill tore the leather and did not break the Ekobond at all. Best application from this test would be the leather glued directly to EkoFill. Direct to the EkoFill would be more like application of fabric tapes or doilies.
Marty57

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"Cecobond" is what "Ekobond" used to be called. When we bought the rights and developed the system, all the products had the "Ceco" prefix. "Eco" came about when Stewarts purchased the system.
John
 
Dusting this one off. I am also not impressed by pliobond. I've used 3m 1357 to install a scout headliner. It grips tenaciously and is what aca uses.
Here's the rub, I'm installing a yellow wool headliner in a yellow-12. The 1357 is green and if I end up with a couple soak through spots it'll be a nasty green... so I'd rather use the 1300, as it's yellow. It's actually what has been used to install de ice boots on other certed ac.
Has anyone been using it?
 
3m make a high tack contact adhesive specifically for headliners. It is transparent.

I just used it to install my off-white wool headliner and it works well. For detail areas I spray it into a dixie cup and then use a small brush.
S
 

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Did you topcoat the leather? That would be the best; than it's just like any patch. Without a top coat I think it will come off. I can peel off this piece of leather but it tears the leather, leaving some of it still stuck to the surface. Topcoating and encapsulating the edge should hold. On the test I did yesterday, the hold on EkoFill was stronger than on the painted surface. Best application would be to glue it on bare fabric like fabric over an inspection ring, than paint over it. I'll tear off the pieces from yesterday and see how it held up.
Marty
marty, curious as what you use to wipe the plane fabric with first before the glue in the leather grommet spot? i did 3 of them about a year ago and so far the stewarts is holding. outlined the grommet with a pencil then scuffed the fabric up with a small piece of scotchbrite pad then put a coat on each and let it dry and then put another coat on and let that dry and then used my modeling iron to warm everything up. tried pliobond and barge, they didnt work. don jones on ebay has some nice grommets for a little over a buck and a half each. and offers all different shapes and sizes. https://www.ebay.com/itm/1767504242...G5P73V&hash=item29272570c0:g:NwAAAOSwdf9nZuD-
 
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