Fabric System
- Thread starter gli77
- Start date
Mi. ( Yooper)
Poly Fiber! I find to be easy to work with IMHO, poly tone paint for ease of repair, Ranthane polyurethane if you are going to be entering it in a show, www.polyfiber.com longevity would depend on how you keep and store your airplane, inside or outside and where you are located geographically, other opinions will vary as they always do!?!?!?
Rick
Rick
Bill Rusk
BENEFACTOR
Sandpoint, Idaho
Here is a link to a post that might help, or at least give you some things to consider. This goes directly to the post on fabric systems so you don't have to wade through the whole thread.
http://www.supercub.org/forum/showt...g-a-Javron-Cub&p=580725&viewfull=1#post580725
Hope it helps
Bill
http://www.supercub.org/forum/showt...g-a-Javron-Cub&p=580725&viewfull=1#post580725
Hope it helps
Bill
mike mcs repair
Registered User
chugiak AK
dope thru white, then some flavor of polyurethane for stripe colors
bob turner
Registered User
Plus 1. But if Stewarts comes out with a less finicky finish coat I may change my mind.
jr.hammack
Registered User
north of willow ak.
bob,
jason told me they had a new-better top coat,maybe he'll comment!! i'd do stewarts again even if was still the old finish!!!!
opinion and my limited experiance
jason told me they had a new-better top coat,maybe he'll comment!! i'd do stewarts again even if was still the old finish!!!!
opinion and my limited experiance
Hardtailjohn
Registered User
Marion, MT
Stewarts!!!
skywagon8a
MEMBER
SE Mass MA6
Stewarts!!! If experimental I would be tempted to try Oratex. Based only on other's comments, it seems that it would depend on the color preferences.
Cubman60
Registered User
North Texas
gbflyer
Registered User
PAGS
The primer and paint part. Takes a lot of material and is very shiny. Pretty smelly. Quite forgiving. Excellent tech support.
Cub Builder
MEMBER
North Central AR
I've done dopes, Polyfiber and Stewarts. My preference is for the nitrate butyrate dopes with a polyurethane finish, but with the low toxicity of Stewarts, that's probably what I'll be doing from now on. As previously mentioned, Stewarts came out with a new formula for their finish coat a couple of years ago that is much less finicky. One plane that we did was finished with their old finish coat, then refinished with their new finish coat following hail damage. Night and day difference.
Hardtailjohn
Registered User
Marion, MT
mike mcs repair
Registered User
chugiak AK
yup... thick and pretty.... :-( and all the MEK used about killed me....
So from what I'm seeing it seems like Stewarts is the most popular followed by Stits and Air Tech, with Superflite getting a couple negatives for it.
I'm looking for a gloss "wet look" finish, and keep my airplanes inside. Im thinking of going with the White with a Red stripe, and leading edges with a thin silver stripe worked in. I will have to do some reading. Its my first fabric job and its on a SuperCub so I want to be sure I go the right way.
Thanks,
I'm looking for a gloss "wet look" finish, and keep my airplanes inside. Im thinking of going with the White with a Red stripe, and leading edges with a thin silver stripe worked in. I will have to do some reading. Its my first fabric job and its on a SuperCub so I want to be sure I go the right way.
Thanks,
flylowslow
Registered User
STL
Just finished my sixth float season with Superflite polyurethane.......sits on the water six months out of the year and everyone still gawks at the finish. Won "Outstanding Fabric Seaplane" OSH 2012. The new System 7 has more flex agent in it I understand. Using a little more MEK isn't that bad, just don't stick your nose in it.
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skywagon8a
MEMBER
SE Mass MA6
Since you are planning to do this job yourself, consider your health. The Stewarts system is safest.
nanook
MEMBER
northern alaska
Not using an MEK based system, would be the preferable way to go.
Stewart's glue is really easy to use.Filler is easy to apply and sands nice. The water based topcoat has cyanides in it like other 2k topcoats. IT IS TOXIC. It's a well documented process (dvd, online videos, websites printed manual). Their material estimation was at least 30% too low. The company is great to work with, very helpful and nice people.
MainlandCub
Registered User
New Zealand
Stewarts claim the isocyanates in their paint are safe because of it being water borne. Would be good to know what the truth actually is………..
QUOTE=MainlandCub;595636]Stewarts claim the isocyanates in their paint are safe because of it being water borne. Would be good to know what the truth actually is………..[/QUOTE]
Not completely safe, you will still need a good charcoal filter mask and should have some ventilation from wherever you are applying the top coat. I've been painting off and on this winter using some simple precautions and haven't encountered any problems, other than a hand growing out the back of my head.
Not completely safe, you will still need a good charcoal filter mask and should have some ventilation from wherever you are applying the top coat. I've been painting off and on this winter using some simple precautions and haven't encountered any problems, other than a hand growing out the back of my head.
I vote for stewarts. Here is my cover lasr winter. 1st time cover, 1st time painting. Had a little trouble on one wing, waited too long in between 2nd and 3rd coats, paint orange peeled. Sanded and repainted came out pretty good.
Posted Using the Free SuperCub.Org Android App!
Posted Using the Free SuperCub.Org Android App!
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amen.....probably safe for the one project guy but repeatd use I would invesr in at least a cheap fresh air mask.I was told by ppg once charcoal didn't get out all of the isocyniates.one product I use to use warning on the hardener read...delayed organ failure....I don't even like typing that.
Hardtailjohn
Registered User
Marion, MT
It's not that tough to figure out, if you understand how Isocyanides work. Isocyanides react to moisture. Any polyurethane will be catalyzed with an isocyanide, and the percentage will depend on the particular paint formula....some require a high percentage of isocyanides and some (especially waterbornes) require a low percentage in the catalyst, because of reasons I'll explain next. In a sense, the Isocyanides behave somewhat like electricity, in that they follow the path of least resistance. This means that in a non-waterborne paint, the isocyanides are seeking moisture, and our bodies are made up primarily of water, thus they are mostly attracted to us, and tend to enter through the soft tissue (eyes, nose, ears,etc.). If they are already happily reacting in a waterborne solution, they tend to stay there (remember, path of least resistance). Any catalyzed paint is most dangerous when the catalyst is being mixed in, as the catalyst is a "free radical" at that time, and is seeking moisture to react with. Thus, a waterborne is the safest of all catalyzed polyurethanes.
Bearhawk Builder
FRIEND
In the woods
Thanks for that explanation, I've always tried to explain that and only came up with something dumb like 'it better'. I've been using Stewarts for some time and although the learning curve was steep, I find it a great product all the way around. Especially for homebuilders, many of whom are covering in the home environment, it's a much safer alternative to the harsh VOC's of the older systems. This point is not insignificant if you've ever looked into the long term effects of solvent based products.
