• If You Are Having Trouble Logging In with Your Old Username and Password, Please use this Forgot Your Password link to get re-established.
  • Hey! Be sure to login or register!

Elevator and rudder bushings


Hempstead, Texas
I need to replace the brass bushings in my elevator hinge, rudder hinge, and flaps. The only proplem is I can't get them out. Tried to drive them out with a srew driver and a little tapping but they did not move. I thought about using an easy-out and then twisting them. Any advise???
Yea, for one thing you should use the proper tool. A drift of the proper diameter (slightly smaller than the O.D. of the bushing) should work. If they still won't come out, then drill them out but with a smaller bit than the O.D. of the bushing. Then drive the remaining shell out with the drift.
I replaced the bushings on my SC empennage a couple of years ago and did pretty much what Steve P. did. I ground a "pilot" on a straight shank punch. Loaded on a new bushing and used it to drive the old one out. I didn't have any trouble with frozen bushings but drilling one out would be the best approach I would think.
Replaced mine today.... Take an old pin and grind the head so its diameter is smaller than the bushing..... leave enough material so that the head will support the bushing than tap it through... I changed all of mine today in about 20 min....
Youse needs a "bushing pushing" kit. I have never seen one advertised, but that's probably because they are so easy to make. I'll go find mine, and give you a better description if you want, but the idea is to apply pressure to the bushing with a machine screw and a cylinder that is a loose fit in the steel part welded to the airframe. You also need a receptacle, which can be little more than a hunk of 4130 tubing with ID just slightly larger than the bushing to be pushed. Inserting the new one is done with the same idea, except all you need really is the machine screw, and a few A-N washers.

Pounding on airplane parts is something I try not to do - even pounding with the palm of your hand can damage some stuff, like the ribs in the horizontal stabilizer. And this trick works every single time, without fail. I believe we used A-N 4 machine screws and lots of washers, but I bet coarse threaded rod would do just fine. I guess you have to pound out the pins themselves, but if you put some SAE 30 on them once a month, even they slip out with a gentle tap.
Use a steel bushing or a small short rod slightly smaller in diameter than the bushing you want out. Works best if it has a centering guide to go inside old bushing. Push it out using a C-clamp with a socket or small tube (thin enough wall to fit behind bushing next to tube the hinges are welded on) on the end bushing comes out of.
They are aluminum blocks riveted to the flap hinges with steel rivets. I know some people have drilled and bushed with oil lite bushings.
Drill the head and bucktail of the rivets off and install new blocks. Univair has the blocks and the rivets.
Reviving an old thread to ask a bushing related question. I have removed all of my elevator and rudder bushings with Steve’s tool. I ordered new bushings and clevis pins from Aircraft Spruce and I am finding that the clevis pins will not fit into the bushings. It looks like the bushings are a little undersized, especially the short ones. The bushings are advertised as being the correct Piper part number.

Is it normal or expected that the bushings and pins will be such a tight fit that they cannot be assembled by hand? Is there a better source for these parts?
Interesting timing - I just installed all my bushings last night using Steve's tool (very nice, made this a 30-minute job for all tail bushings). My bushings came with the Javron kit. But I also had a certified cub at one point and don't recall them being hard to push in. My opinion is that the pins should slip right into the bushings. We can see what the experts on here say.
Are the bushings too tight prior to or after installation. I can usually push the clevis pin in by hand. Have had a few that needed a tap and have had some tulip the end when installed where I tapped a 1/4" ball bearing through.
Are the bushings too tight prior to or after installation. I can usually push the clevis pin in by hand. Have had a few that needed a tap and have had some tulip the end when installed where I tapped a 1/4" ball bearing through.
They are too tight prior to installation. Taking one of the clevis pins and one of the bushings I cannot put the clevis pin through by hand. It is way too tight. I put a caliper on the clevis pin and it looks like its diameter is in spec. As a quick test, I took a quarter inch drill bit and tried to put the shank through the bushing but could not get it to fit. I think it is an issue with the ID of the bushings. I haven’t looked at the Piper drawing yet but will today. I’m also going to call Univar and discuss this with them once I have the bushing spec in front of me.
Never had any not require reaming to fit. Perfectly normal.
I talked to Univair today. They said they never had anyone complain about the fit of the bushings. They did offer to test fit the bushings with the pins for me before they ship them. I'm going to take them up on it. Making bushings that fit a hinge pin should not be rocket science.
They are standard bushings. Probably a vendor issue. I doubt Univair makes their own. I buy them in bulk.