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Eddie's Mini Rebuild

Eddie Foy

Registered User
South Florida
Since I am having my engine overhauled, I decided to do a few things while Miss P was down.

I love my plane but hated the panel. It also had a pedestal between your legs that I really didnt like. I decided to put in a new panel, stainless firewall, and a three piece boot cowl.

I have read Bill Rusks Javron Cub thread twenty-seven times. I also lean on Steve Pierce for parts and advice. I am working under the supervision of a buddy IA on my field. I consult with him and others, do the work, and he inspects it and suggests any necessary changes.

I removed all the vacuum stuff like the pump, AI, and DG. It also had a VOR that went in the sell pile.

I am going back with Trig radio and Xpdr and EI CGR-30P. I will use my Ipad mini and Stratus 2 also. My panel will look very much like Kirby's.

So far, I have built a new battery platform in the tail. I nutplated everything so it can be removed if necessary without having to hold nuts from the bottom therefore requiring two people.

The Atlee Dodge extended baggage is going in too.

I am also changing from the glass fuses and two leads to the wing root to a master Contactor. I am removing the electrics like the master and ammeter from the wing root.

I have my three piece boot cowl about 2/3rds built and am stringing new wire from the battery section forward. Most all of the wiring that I can access is being replaced.

My goal is a simple panel with backup attitude info from the Stratus 2.

I will add more pics as I go.

Welcome to my rat's nest!!

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I stopped removing stuff about here.
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Boot Cowl Coming Together
Clyde's Stainless Firewall and Blank Panel
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To Be Continued.......
 

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This airplane was totally rebuilt in 92 by Cub Crafters.

I hope they are not the ones who sprayed paint with the boot cowl off and no masking.

They also got paint on the backside of the fuel valves and the fuel lines. I have already repaired that. I dissambled the valves, installed new o rings and lube. They work much better now. One was pretty stiff!

Overspray on bottom of floorboard and the elevator cables. I cant leave this so I removed the board to refinish it.


You can see the aluminum strips that I installed. (The ones held by the clamp). They keep the new metal from creasing when you bend it under the cowl. I pop riveted them on. I may just leave them there.
Notice the overspray? Sloppy work.
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Sure you don't want to put the battery under the seat? Keeps the starter/bus feed much shorter. Also, you can mount your master solenoid right on the front bend of the tray.

Web
 
Web,
I just dont like the idea of all that stuff under my butt. I know this sounds funny coming from a guy with 4000 hours sitting on a rocket powered ejection seat.

I dont routinely load this plane down so I dont need the CG shift. Also with my 215 lbs in the front seat, that would put the CG very near the front limit with me solo and light. Too easy to stand it on its nose. I know it costs me a little bit in weight for the cable but I can live with it.

Plus, I already have the new stuff installed.
 
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I was thinking about the CAD charges. lol.

What condition is the battery cable in? Does it need to be replaced? What I do in this case is install the master solenoid at the battery box and hook up the battery cable. Then, up behind the firewall, I install the starter solenoid. I install the bus feed wire from the hot side of the start solenoid, to the bus, on the instrument panel.

Web
 
The battery cable and starter lead are all fairly new and in very good to excellent condition. I am happy with that part. Your method makes sense but mine is all easily accessed in the aft position. Just another way to skin a cat.

However, there is a braided strap welded to the engine mount that grounds the engine to the mount. It is in bad shape. I am considering removing it, welding a tab to the mount, and buying a new strap.
 
You can use the existing starter cable as your lead from the new master to the start solenoid at the firewall and on to the starter.

If you're going to replace the braided ground, consider installing a new one from the crank case to one of those three screws that stick through the firewall. That way your engine is grounded directly to the fuselage tubing. You'll also bypass the bolts and hinges on the engine mount.

Web
 
Here is a shot of the underside of the front floorboard. When I sanded the paint off, I found a layer of yellow, a layer of white, and a layer of silver.

Looks like it was done when the A/C was recovered. Dissapointing. It is also low grade plywood.

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You can use the existing starter cable as your lead from the new master to the start solenoid at the firewall and on to the starter.

If you're going to replace the braided ground, consider installing a new one from the crank case to one of those three screws that stick through the firewall. That way your engine is grounded directly to the fuselage tubing. You'll also bypass the bolts and hinges on the engine mount.

Web

Great minds think alike. That was what I was thinking. The current braid has too many broken strands. I dont think I will move the solenoid but will keep that in mind for a future build.
 
If you move the start solenoid now, you wont have to string in a new bus feed wire. The bus feed will be two to three feet long at the most. Otherwise you need to string in a new bus feed wire from the master solenoid at the battery.

If you ever replace that factory ground strap on the engine mount, keep in mind that it's soldered to the tube. It's just LOADS of fun soldering in a new one.

Web
 
If you move the start solenoid now, you wont have to string in a new bus feed wire. The bus feed will be two to three feet long at the most. Otherwise you need to string in a new bus feed wire from the master solenoid at the battery.

If you ever replace that factory ground strap on the engine mount, keep in mind that it's soldered to the tube. It's just LOADS of fun soldering in a new one.

Web

Already bought the wire. At this stage, it is too much work to change it. That also would give me about 10 feet of heavy ga unfused wire that is hot with the master on.
My setup will use a 30 amp breaker in the feed line. It wiil be about three inches from the master solenoid. A short in it trips the breaker.

A short in your setup fries till you turn off the master unless I am missing something.
 
Thanks Steve. I will. I found a lack of lube and some rust on the rudder pedal saddles. Also, my brake pedals are a little twisted. I found a pen and the usual collection of gunk and spare parts.

What is the long metal rod that connects the brake pedals made of. Got to be a better way to do that.

I have to stop doing "might as wells" or this could take forever. I am hoping to bring it to the seminar but I will have to hustle.

My tailwheel skills, meager as they are, are perishable.
 
The downfall of the underseat battery is it brings the cg way forward, and sometimes past the forward limit. Espically with the borer prop.

Looking good Eddie. Glad to see you're getting rid of the radios in the center. They sucked.
 
Well the boot cowl is finished to the install nut plate stage. Still have to trim around the firewall
and a bit on the trailing edge. Only one errant hole.

Also straightened my twisted brake pedals. Should make reaching the heel brakes easier with my long legs.

The reinforcement plate was fine..no cracks.

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Eddie, A tip: On the top boot cowl just below that horizontal row of clecos make a small bend inward. This will stiffen the edge and tighten the seam when the screws are installed eliminating that slight waviness in the edge of the sheet between the fasteners.
 
Thought I would illustrate how the brakes pedals get twisted after 50 plus years of size 12s.


The legs should be in the same plane. The left one has been carefully straightened. The right has not

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Eddie, A tip: On the top boot cowl just below that horizontal row of clecos make a small bend inward. This will stiffen the edge and tighten the seam when the screws are installed eliminating that slight waviness in the edge of the sheet between the fasteners.

I plan to do that and put a stiffener behind it. Thanks. I have to disassemble it and do the final trim, etc.

The old cowl did not have the stiffners on the bottom. I will install them on this one.
 
Eddie, you seem to be pretty handy for a pilot! What's your mechanical background? (just curious)... I know a little about Pete's (Skywagon8a) it's really quite impressive and worthy of a conversation over a beer if you ever get a chance.
 
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Eddie, you seem to be pretty handy for a pilot! What's your mechanical background? (just curious)... I know a little about Pete's (Skywagon8a) it's really quite impressive and worthy of a conversation over a beer if you ever get a chance.
My education is Engineering. My father was a blue collar mechanic. He could fix anything. I am very thankful that I inherited a portion of his talent.

I will buy you a beer anytime.
 
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