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Cub axle nut removal?

and more thoughts...

I ground this pin to short... but you get the idea... weld it into the hole on a 3" extension,

use a socket that fit lose in axel on other end....(covers the different axel thickness issue..)

maybe have 2 more weld rods welded on to make it like spanner and ride on out side of nut 90 deg to each side of the pin?



I put my skis on and off sometimes 15 to 20 times between late Oct and April. I rarely have to use any tool to get the axel nut off. I snug it up with my hand till the holes line up and remove it the same way. Once in awhile I need pliers in the winter when it gets water in the threads and freezes. It only needs to be snug not tight.

How about a 4 inch tube that is a slip fit over the axle nut. Drill it for pins to fit into the cotter key holes. Now a ring is needed for a slide fit over our tube. Cut the tube lengthwise 90degrees from the pins. Now you have two half tubes with pins that are inserted in the opposing holes on the nut and the ring is slid over this assembly to retain the shape of the original tube and hold the pins in their inserted positions. Now a mandrel with a square drive hole (3/8 ?) fits loosely in the free end of the cut tube and the tube halves are loosely pinned to it to allow them to open and close like a clamshell over the axle nut. So you take the tool and spread the free ends enough to slide over the axle nut and squeeze it so the pins enter the holes. Slide the retainer ring over the tool and down far enough to hold the pins in the nut. Turn by hand to loosen or tighten the nut. If he nut is stuck, insert a 3/8 drive ratchet and extension into the square hole for more leverage. There was a Cummins injector puller that gave me this idea but I cannot find a picture of that tool to add to the explanation. I think this would be a good tool junkie's project. Now I'm gonna make one---- someday. jrh
Is there a recommended torque for the axle nut? I have always just spun it on and off hand tight.

Is there a recommended torque for the axle nut? I have always just spun it on and off hand tight.

This from Grove: http://www.groveaircraft.com/brakeinstall.html

Pre-Load Wheel Bearings — It is important that the axle nut be tightened properly. With the aircraft jacked up, rotate the wheel and tire while hand-tightening the axle nut until it is hand-tight. The wheel and tire should rotate freely with little or no drag. If not, loosen the axle nut just enough so that the wheel and tire are on the “edge” of rotating freely. Install a safety cotter pin through the axle nut and axle. Check to see that the installed cotter pin does not interfere with the valve stem, or any other part of the wheel and tire assembly.
You are pushing a tapered bearing into a race. Inboard and outboard sides together. They are (hopefully) greased, you want to tighten to the point where it gets harder to spin the wheel. You then back it off to the point where the wheel spins freely, with no slop in the bearing pre-load. You should have free spin with no movement of the bearing backing out of the race. Pull and push on the wheel to make sure there is no give as you spin it around.