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Cub axle nut removal?

bushwannabe

Registered User
Cheyenne, WY
Any clever tools to remove that smooth axle nut, with the BW installed its become a bit tricky.

Thanks,

Will
 
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So simple a 5yr old could do it.

 

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Look on eBay there not cheap but you can get an actual castle nut for them.
 
Sounds like you need a custom spanner along these lines.
acc_129600.jpg
 
Sleeve nut or castle nut, you'll still use channel locks. No matter, the axle nut is barely more than finger tight. If you want a treat try 10" wheels or wheels with 10" adaptors and remove/replace the brakes. You'll never complain about the axle nut again!
 
Mike, I just googled "spanner wrench" looking for an idea which I had, and that's what I found. I was thinking that the pin would be perpendicular to the flat piece which would be bent to the radius of the outside of the axle "ring nut". Then a tab with a 3/8" square hole welded to that at the end opposite the pin. The curved flat section would go perhaps 1/3 around the axle nut. Do you get my picture (idea)?
 
or another thought, would you want something that slipped in center of axel to help keep pin from popping out?? different thickness axels so i would think adjustable would be good.. but if its only for your one plane you could just weld a fixed thing there....

spanner%25202.jpg
 
Mike, I just googled "spanner wrench" looking for an idea which I had, and that's what I found. I was thinking that the pin would be perpendicular to the flat piece which would be bent to the radius of the outside of the axle "ring nut". Then a tab with a 3/8" square hole welded to that at the end opposite the pin. The curved flat section would go perhaps 1/3 around the axle nut. Do you get my picture (idea)?

kinda like this?? I drew a socket welded to end...

skywagons%2520spanner%25201.jpg


time to head to shop.... will have to think on this later....
 
kinda like this?? I drew a socket welded to end...

skywagons%2520spanner%25201.jpg


time to head to shop.... will have to think on this later....

That's it. That's what I was thinking. Since it only needs to be a strong finger tight, you could leave out the socket and bend a semicircle for a finger grip at that end. Though, I like the socket square better, since it could be used in both tighten and loosen directions with a wrench.

ps. If the pin were made a little too long, it could be used to help align the holes for the cotter pin when tightening. Though it could be a nuisance when loosening.

pss. Of course when loosening, it could be placed in a non-cotter pin aligned hole, so would not be a problem.
 
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One of our mechanics at work had this tool. Looks like it will work, but I think it's discontinued...
 

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Since a guy is going to have the cotter pin out any time his is moving the nut, why not a socket? Maybe build an adapter for 3/8" ratchet, but all the extra seems a bit much.
 
I'll second the recommendation for the Knipex Plierswrench. No teeth, so nothing gets chewed up, and more clamping force than you'll ever need. Not cheap, but they come in handy for so many things. I had some time to kill today. Here are a few more options:

Knipex:
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If you still want a dedicated tool for some reason, I imagine you could modify a bike lockring spanner pretty easily:

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Heat and bend the handles of a pair of cannon plug pliers? Probably wouldn't end well..
Pro-2009-5245015129.jpg

Or drill and tap a gland wrench to fit a pin in the same spot as bushwannabe's work buddy's fancy tool:

4153qPTKxuL.jpg

Or buy the very same thing that his buddy has: "Adjustable pin spanner set" 6272 from WTA (formerly Granco?) for $225. Seems completely overkill.

Adjustable_Spanner_Attachment_Page_1_Final.jpg


I should find more productive things to do with my time while waiting for the UPS man...
 

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Those Knipex pliers are addictive. Once I bought my first set and realized the quality and usefulness, I had to have several more sets in various sizes. I like to set rivets in nut plates with them too.
 
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