Covering, Stewart System

[sharp]

Dw / Jason,
I recall mixing the 3:1:1 weights, but the instructions say divide Part A by 3.3 to get part B. That would be less than the '1' and Divide A by 2.75 to get the water and would be more than '1'. :-?
I would rather keep it easy and just weigh at 3:1:1 if that is still good.

Thanks
Sharp

 

[jgerard]

From experimentation we've found that some of the colors like to be mixed at a different ratio than others. The different pigments affect the viscosity, that is why we have different ratios based on what color your mixing. When the paint gets shipped out the ratio for that color is included in the directions. I keep a calculator with my digital gram scale to make things easy and I always round to the closest gram.


Part A is the Resin
Part B is the Catalyst
Part C is the water (reducer)

Part A / 3.3 = Part B
300g / 3.3 = 91g

Part A / 2.75 = Part C
300g / 2.75 = 109g

300g resin
91g catalyst
109g distilled water

Jason

 

[kevin]

Thanks for explaining it to me. DW, I took a smoker up to Seattle to visit with my folks. I will be here thru the weekend then back to CA on Sunday evening. I hope your painting is going well.

Kevin

 

[jimboflying]

Is it possible to tint the primer to match the topcoat. Last time I used the topcoat it had very little pigment and too much topcoat was needed to get the yellow color right.

 

[bob turner]

They have white, both primer and finish. If you are spraying yellow you need a coat of white first, with all paint systems.

 

[jimboflying]

Thanks but that still doesn’t help with the lack of pigment. Sometimes in the auto world black primer is used under yellow.

 

[skywagon8a]

Thanks but that still doesn’t help with the lack of pigment. Sometimes in the auto world black primer is used under yellow.

When I did mine, I thought I only had the dark primer. So I used it, knowing that I should use a light primer. It took a lot of coats of yellow to make it look yellow. Later when I got to the wings I found hidden in the bottom of my paint pile some white primer. I hadn't realized I had it. The wings got the white and used a lot less yellow to make it look yellow. Notice the difference between the fuselage fabric (dark primer) and the boot (white primer) cowl.

 

[rsrguy3]

The only people that I have heard talk negatively about Stewart Systems are those that have not used it before. You have to take into consideration that everyone interperates instructions differently and there are many variables that can affect the outcome of any covering system. Have you watched the Stewart Systems DVD set with 7+hrs of video on how to cover and paint? If not contact me so I can send one to you.

Jason Gerard

I've used it... I don't care for it.

 

[phdigger123]

I have used Stewarts on a PA-18 replica and another wing. The main reason I chose the Stewarts products is there are no flammable solvents. The bonus is that it is not difficult to use if you follow the directions. The finish is nice and glossy. I am restoring a 1969 PA18 right now, and it will also be covered with Stewarts.

 

[AKjurnees]

This was done in Stewart’s, with white primer.

 

[bob turner]

Aircraft yellow, whether Stewart’s, dope, Stitts, or Evolution, really needs white first. It doesn’t have to be primer. I don’t know about Airtech, since it is automotive with flex agents, but I suspect they recommend white first as well.

 

[AKjurnees]

Aircraft yellow, whether Stewart’s, dope, Stitts, or Evolution, really needs white first. It doesn’t have to be primer. I don’t know about Airtech, since it is automotive with flex agents, but I suspect they recommend white first as well.

Airtech uses a white’ish cream color primer filler, I believe they even recommend white over it for light colors. The down side with their primer is it’s slightly heavier than stits/Ceconite

 

[jimboflying]

I wanted to make a cup holder to hold the brush while applying the glue so I cut a paper cup to make the pattern, rolled and welded it to a heavy base to prevent tip overs.

 

[bcone1381]

I had some of these bottles (link below) in the shop. I decided to try them with Stewarts Glue after I knocked my glue cup onto the floor. I loved them. The glue drying issue is gone, and I just kept the brush in a damp paper towel when I was not using it. I am faster with the bottle because I can just administer the glue along a surface with precision and keep the brush damp moving instead of the interrupting the task every time my brush got dry and needed more glue. I think I used 15-20% less glue too.

https://www.amazon.com/Z-COLOR-Dropper-Bottle-Childproof-Plastic/dp/B01LY9LBYW/ref=dp_prsubs_d_sccl_1/137-2368769-1333127?pd_rd_w=cOVjA&content-id=amzn1.sym.42aa4ac9-41cf-40f2-844a-256751b93dbf&pf_rd_p=42aa4ac9-41cf-40f2-844a-256751b93dbf&pf_rd_r=QV2W2P8XMAG2KZ013YZV&pd_rd_wg=8E75u&pd_rd_r=ff0c707a-09d5-46a9-ba6b-68dc7fcfd41b&pd_rd_i=B01LY9LBYW&psc=1