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Control stick lock

Grizzley

Registered User
Cornwall, Ontario, Canada
I am working on filling out the new extended panel from Atlee Dodge on my PA-12. It is now down to tubes, bare tubes, no wires, hoses or other clutter...
This all started out fixing a failed gear attach fitting and turned out to be a complete rebuild, but that is another story... Lets say I a at the Ikea stage; needs assembly...
I have seen control stick locks in the past and trying to find the best way to make something that will securely lock the stick to the panel or the seat or neutral, without using my seat belt.
Can you post your ingenious contraptions to accomplish this with pictures if possible.
Thank you and happy Thanks giving!
JD
 
will look for picture,

hindge on top front of seat BASE, with a triangle piece of aluminuim(kinda thick) with a bolt/screw at front pointing down...

on stick put an AN Eye bolt with eye on back side, to line up with screw...

to use flip aluminum piece up, and put screw through eye bolt... done.... to remove un hook it and flip down out of way...
 
Is this any use? - works for me.

PICT4370.webp

Frank
(Can't seem to get the picture any bigger - sorry)
 

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will look for picture,

hindge on top front of seat BASE, with a triangle piece of aluminuim(kinda thick) with a bolt/screw at front pointing down...

on stick put an AN Eye bolt with eye on back side, to line up with screw...

to use flip aluminum piece up, and put screw through eye bolt... done.... to remove un hook it and flip down out of way...

I'm not a fan of them things..I figure they'll get in the way some time when I land roughly...or in turbulence...

....but the biggest reason I dislike them is they fool you into thinking you don't need to put external gust locks on....which you do NEED TO PUT ON.

...yep, personal opinion again, formed by years of flying and years of taking care of airplanes, and years of fixing airplane control surfaces damaged by wind, snow, etc. D
 
I also have external locks between ailerons/flaps and rudder/fin so everything is held tight - not that I park outside too much.

Frank
 
During what we call high winds around here I even tie the rudder pedals - but I agree the external gust locks are best for the kinds of winds you get in Alaska. If outside in mild conditions I take a turn around the rear stick with one of the shoulder harnesses, then hook it in to the tightened lap strap. Rock solid.
 
Stick-back-elevators-up never liked because of battering from winds on tail. To sleep well, I lock control surfaces with carpet-covered plywood pads.
 
The other thing not to like about those seat mounted gust locks is how easy it would be to get in, light the fire, and take off.

I know....everyone here "wipes out the controls" every time he/she flies, right? Poke around on you tube for a video of three test pilots in a turbine powered Caribou who failed to remove the gust locks.

And, remember Ricky Nelson and Co.

MTV
 
I've never been a fan of that many holes drilled in a stick, They have been known to break off at the drilled hole.
 
Any one have photos of some external gust locks?

best ones I put on every rebuild is Burls pn #GUST SM for cub http://burlac.com/Mics_Fab_Items.html

good value, works good.... I put 2 sets on a -12, on between flap and aileron and one at tips, because of the goffy cable system on ailerons....
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I take the foam ball OFF bungie it comes with and add red nylon dog leash like stuff to hang down and remind you to remove them.. and through the nylon I put a snap and receptical on trailing edge like is on your seat cushion to keep them on....
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Seen a deal the guy called a condom. It held the stick back to the seat which some may not like, but it was a piece of material like a sock that slipped over the stick about 6 inches that had 2 heavier bungy cords or smaller ratchet straps, something like that, attached to the bottom of it that went back to each side of the seat where it hinges on each side and hooked there.
 
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Yes, this is what I was thinking of. I do use external gust locks for aileron-flaps and elevator. I made one for the rudder out of carpet covered plywood with wing nut.
But, while at a flying breakfast or stopped just for a short while for lunch or something, I choc the wheels and use seatbelt (sometimes); having something simple to "hook-up" would lock the controls for those short stops and double the locking when parked for the night.
Thanks to all for sharing your opinions and advice.
JD
 
They have been known to break off at the drilled hole.......

.....where the hole is drilled for the push to talk wire. None in a Cub that I am aware of.

I was gonna say, in my mind that would be hard to break at the cub mounting drilled hole since its on top of and down an inch++ on the tight fitting inner tube....(which is what I assumed from your first post)

drill away on a cub stick, especially up where you would put a PTT switch, I would not be least bit concerned about that....(wire runs out bottom of control stub so no reason to ever drill a hole low...)
 
Bungie wrapped once around top of stick, the two end hooks to a rudder pedal. Keeps the elevator down, which I find puts less strain on it in a tailwind. Also puts some tension on the rudder and ailerons so they're not so likely to flop around. Flaps down (mine tend to bang around if left up).

Takes care of moderate winds but if it's blowing a gale you'll need external control locks unless you can park in a sheltered location.
 
I'm may be the minority, but I use external control locks on all three control surfaces in addition to extending the flaps in lieu of an internal control lock realizing that it's probably a better plan to have the elevator down during a strong force wind. Gary
 
My -12 has been tied outside for its whole life. External gust locks only is what I use. Burls are the best for the ailerons and flaps IMHO. I use those orange rubber ones for the elevators.
 
No one has mention the original Piper gust lock which grabs the top of the stick and swings forward under the panel when not in use. This would be just fine for those short stops. I agree that external clamps are important for longer periods. The flaps should definitely be clamped in the UP position. When left in the down position they provide too much lift with a nose on wind. When the wind is from behind they WILL bang violently whether up or down which WILL cause unseen or worse damage.
 
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