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Continuation - Elevator Spring

djonesutah

Registered User
Looking for a continuation of help on possibe installation of an elevator spring. I got some advice earlier in the "modifications" section when I posted in somebody elses topic on "elevator spring" or "bungee".

Mostly Wag J-3, SC Rudder, SC Struts, VG's wing and tail, C-85 Stroker, Wing Tanks, Front Solo, W&B within limits, PA-12 stabilizer and elevator. No change when flying with 8.00 4's or 8.50 6's and associated weight increase.

The original question from me was if the Elevator Spring arrangement would solve my problem of not being able to trim for best glide, and, that my trim is closer to full nose up than neutral for cruise. I have plenty of elevator for 3-point. Adding a back seat passenger changes cruise trim position very little. The advice I received from this group was to measure stabilizer, and other angles, before adding any parts.

Using the longerarm immediately below the left window, between front and rear seats as level, best I could with covering in place.
- With stabilizer set at same level, 4 degrees nose down travel, 1.5 degrees nose up travel (out of spec). Nose down hits diagonal structure in tail as stop. Nose up,yoke travel bottoms with about 1/4 " before front stabilizer would hit longerarms.

-Wing angle of incidence seems to be about 1.3 degrees. My wings are ribbed stiched. If I wanted to measure 1.5 degrees I could by pushing on the right end of the level harder, but I think 1.3 degrees is realistic. Every rib, both wings, had the same angle plus or minus about 0.2 degrees, but average the same as the root. is that right? All washout is past the last full rib?.
-No dihedral in tail. I didn't measure wing dihedral.

-Elevator travel was as listed in TC.

I know my nose down stabilizer travel is out of spec. I'm not clear if flipping the yoke would change this, and I'm not clear if the last quarter inch would meet the TC spec ....probably. But it isn't my problem is it? Why is my cruise trim so far to the nose up position? Plane flys/stalls very nicely. Nice characteristics.

After reading other posts on the elvator spring, I'm under the impression that it would help solve or solve the problem. The spring/cable should be of the right tensionand length to overcome the weight of the elevator wanting to nose the plane down?

If the solution is to add the elevator spring, any suggestions onwhere to purchase entire assembly? I need the attachment to the yoke, and all the pulleys, etc. all the way through to the elevator horn.
 
I personally hate these springs, but I cannot see how they would change the range of trim. If you have full range of trim, and are physically able to move the elevators from stop to stop while flying at your chosen approach speed, you will not add any authority to either with a spring.
 
Wrong Bob. All other things being equal, a spring adding additional up elevator works wonders on ability to trim.

I installed the PA12 assembly(optional on the J5) on the J5A. Before, w/o spring/bungee, you could not trim for glide less than 85. With trim bungee spring assembly installed it wasn't perfect but would fly hands off at 50. Also used less of the trim range overall, i.e. used fewer turns to trim...

The assembly can be purchased from Univair

jack

PS. W/O these bungees, the heavier Pipers would be impossible to trim using only the jackscrew. My PA22 had used both up and down springs....
 
It is a given that any spring tension on the elevator will in turn improve trim authority. do a little test. Purchase a small stranded stainless steel leader cable and the bungee spring attatch it to the elevator horn and rig an adjustable tension mechanism up in the cockpit. Do a little experimenting in your experimental. The cantilever weight of the 12 elevator could be the whole problem. What does a 12 elevator weigh in comparison to a light little cub elevator? The bungee spring could be mounted anywhere between the rear seat and the tail, using a cable clamp and a fix point to intall the spring. If it is like the super cub , creat a little unit under the rear seat. This type of install would not give the adjustability as with one tied to the yoke but possibly all you really need is to make it a little more balanced. Just throwing ideas at you.
 
I forgot - not only does that spring make it more difficult to fly without trimming, but it also biases the elevator. 40ff is correct.

My problem is, having flown Cubs with very weak springs and Cubs with very strong springs - I really like going to full flaps and being able to control the thing without massive trim changes. The one I like the very best is a very light 160 Cub that requires no trim at all in the pattern, no matter what the flap setting is.
 
Hey, I agree with you Bob as to how they fly..... :-? but it's the nature of the heavier beastys.

Jack
 
Doug,

When you are out buying parts keep in mind that it may take a couple of attempts to get the cable length right. I have even seen a pre-built (supposedly factory spec) cable that was supposed to fit a -18 turn out way short which caused a brand new cub to have all kinds of trim problems. Lucky me because I have smart friends and one of them taught me how the cable length affects the trim system. The length of this cable varies considerably between cubs and is one reason why some cubs have a more sensitve trim system than others.

Jerry
 
Fortysix12 said:
It is a given that any spring tension on the elevator will in turn improve trim authority. do a little test. Purchase a small stranded stainless steel leader cable and the bungee spring attatch it to the elevator horn and rig an adjustable tension mechanism up in the cockpit. Do a little experimenting in your experimental. The cantilever weight of the 12 elevator could be the whole problem. What does a 12 elevator weigh in comparison to a light little cub elevator? The bungee spring could be mounted anywhere between the rear seat and the tail, using a cable clamp and a fix point to intall the spring. If it is like the super cub , creat a little unit under the rear seat. This type of install would not give the adjustability as with one tied to the yoke but possibly all you really need is to make it a little more balanced. Just throwing ideas at you.

Maybe good advice? The only trim I had on my Pitts was a spring & cable attached to a frictioned lever up front and attached to up elevator(somewhere, horn/cable or pushrod??? 35 years ago) in the back. With your combo of parts I would have no idea exactly what PMA'ed spring/cable you should order and they ain't exactly cheap from Univair......?
 
Thanks guys. I have worried about what cable length I should have too. I noticed one other poster/builder on this site with pictures of his elevator spring added a turnbuckle to adjust spring tension/cable length. Not sure if I should be experimenting like that, though I think it is a good idea for the experienced tuners/builders.

I plan to call Uivair and ask for all the components for the system to fit a PA-12. I don't have a parts manual so I'll have to trust what they tell me I need. I figure that is my best shot at getting the right length cable and tensioned spring.

Thanks for the advice.
 
If I can find my reciept from Univair or can find my Piper drawings, I'll give you the part numbers but I think you can count on Univair(in this case anyway?)....whoever helped me was right on the money. I might have tossed the stuff as I haven't been able to enjoy the J5 since going the LSA route....

Jack
 
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