Chris & D.A.'s/Denny's Super Cub

[D.A.]

...You might give Jay at Javron a call. He is already jigged for the mount you are considering...

Thanks Bill, and thanks for always sharing. It appears that there are a number of options out there, but because of your detailed photo journal, I think Jay just made a sale. You say he has a jig already, I emailed (Late) but haven't heard back yet, but do you think his jig can accommodate a Dynamical mount?

Also, to Chris in Idaho's question, does your mount then replicate the cowl lines of an unmodified 150 SC? In other words, other than the deep inlet fairing, no one walking by would know that it had a 180 or a T/L Mod?

Thanks in advance.

D.A.

 

[Aerotow1]

Have you actually called Steve Furjesi and talked to him or just looked at his website? He can adjust his jig to accomplish exactly what you want. He is local for you and really knowledgeable in this area. I am not saying he knows more than anyone else, but I do know his work and his abilities. I just purchased a 12 fuselage and a set of D&E wings he had. Give him a call he is always willing to work on these projects. I would strongly recommend a swing out mount. So nice to get to the back of that engine.

 

[D.A.]

I've known Steve for quite awhile. That's my SC fuselage hanging in his rafters. He does good work.

 

[hotrod180]

Dave, I'm kinda curious why you're going to so much trouble to make change(s) to the engine mount. It seems like Denny's airplane was a helluva performer the way he built it up-- what is it you're trying to change or improve?

 

[D.A.]

Dave, I'm kinda curious why you're going to so much trouble to make change(s) to the engine mount. It seems like Denny's airplane was a helluva performer the way he built it up-- what is it you're trying to change or improve?

Hey Eric, are you coming to the Fly-In? Let me know which day and I'll meet you at the hangar. Denny was a great guy and an amazing innovator and a successful competitor, I just think I'll accomplish the T/L Mod a slightly different way.

 

[Bill Rusk]

DA

It puts the prop flange in the stock location. When you do the Thrustline Mod, that pushes the front of the engine, prop flange, up a couple of inches and you get a "kink" in the cowl line. When Jay does the mount, and builds in the Thrustline, you will have the same issue unless you drop the back part of the mount about 2 inches. When all done, from the outside, you can't tell it has the Thrustline Mod. The cowl will have a nice line just like the original Super Cub. It will create some "problems to be solved" but it looks nicer and you get much better over the nose visibility.

Hope this helps
PS - Jay gets busy sometimes. Call him on the phone and speak to him personally. Super helpful and friendly. It also might help expedite your order.

Bill

 

[D.A.]

..The cowl will have a nice line just like the original Super Cub...Jay gets busy sometimes. Call him on the phone and speak to him personally...

Thanks Bill for letting all of us benefit from your learning curve. Much appreciated. Yeah, I have a history of not making contact with Jay for some reason. I have 2 emails into him right now. I'll try to contact him by phone again.

Thanks Bill.

D.A.

 

[D.A.]

Has anyone used Oratex for patching? Our Cub is currently covered in Stits but has a few small "Right of Passage, Character Marks" that I want to address as we go back together. I've searched and read over the posts here but I haven't seen anything specifically for patching. I don't really have a proper place to do spray work, so Oratex sounds like an option. The areas I'm considering are mostly out of the way and most are in the white areas so I'm guessing Oratex can get pretty close on color match. Any input would be appreciated.

Thanks in advance.

D.A.

 

[Ursa Major]

I've not used Oratex, so I can't comment on how well it might work for patching. You might consider using vinyl tape similar to that used for N numbers. Most sign shops can get it and it is available in several colors and sizes. You might even be able to get your Stits paint color matched with an enamel that can be rattle can sprayed on the tape and simply applied when needed. The tape is pretty durable and adheres well. For small patches it should work.

 

[D.A.]

...You might consider using vinyl tape similar to that used for N numbers...The tape is pretty durable and adheres well...

Mike that sounds like a great idea. I know it's not structural, but like you said, it adheres well and from what I've always seen, it lasts the length of the life of your covering job. Pretty clever.

Is there a gap seal tape out there that is similar to duct tape but lasts for years, doesn't peel and is tougher than nails? Denny used a tape some years back as a gap seal tape (Which is part of my problem) that didn't remove well when the Cub was disassembled. He also used it on a couple small areas and I can't believe how tough this stuff is. It isn't going to come off without a fight and it will either leave behind something or take something with it. Does anybody know what it is and what would you use to remove the residual?

 

[Bugs66]

Dave, before I switched to the CC gap seals I used musician's gaffers tape and is high quality and removes easier. However still required persuasion with mineral spirits (solvent).

 

[D.A.]

...musician's gaffers tape...However still required persuasion with mineral spirits (solvent).

Thanks Bugs, yeah, adhesive removal is going to be one of my next projects, right after the other 5000 projects.....

 

[skywagon8a]

You could just fill in the gap with balsa wood covered with fabric tape and painted. Leave enough space to remove the hinge pins. Make the gap filler a part of the elevator or stabilizer leaving just enough space so the the two don't rub.

 

[photosfromabove]

Mike that sounds like a great idea. I know it's not structural, but like you said, it adheres well and from what I've always seen, it lasts the length of the life of your covering job. Pretty clever.

Is there a gap seal tape out there that is similar to duct tape but lasts for years, doesn't peel and is tougher than nails? Denny used a tape some years back as a gap seal tape (Which is part of my problem) that didn't remove well when the Cub was disassembled. He also used it on a couple small areas and I can't believe how tough this stuff is. It isn't going to come off without a fight and it will either leave behind something or take something with it. Does anybody know what it is and what would you use to remove the residual?

I think it may have been on here before,here is link to Racers Tape Http://www.racerstape.com
You may have to type it in,doesn't seem to be automatically opening.Okay I edited spacing and its opening now,I have not used this so I have no review for it.
It may work for what you are doing.
Gary

 

[D.A.]

...here is link to Racers Tape...

That very well could be what Denny was using. I'll check it out. Thanks.

 

[D.A.]

Randy Appling just let me know that he shipped my special Pod. He layed in a little extra material in a few key areas after we talked. His pod is awesome, all carbon fiber, biggest side door (as far as I know), and one of the coolest things is the fact that the entire back end hinges open so you can load long items in through the back rather than having to fit it through the side door - - - How cool is that!

Okay - - - Ready for the next rant (I hope not), here goes. I apologize in advance if I'm stepping on peoples toes here, but I'm completely against loading hundreds of pounds of crap inside the cabin behind the pilot/passengers heads. I know the trend for years has been to build a huge cavernous baggage in the back of the fuselage and I'm just not onboard with that. Hopefully neither me or my son or grandson will ever have to worry about it, but IF there is some event with a drastic frontal deceleration, all that hundreds of pounds of crap is going to try to go out through the firewall. Our Cub had a baggage just like that, the lower section went WAY back and the upper section went all the way back to the trim jackscrew. We've removed it all. When you look back inside the airplane now all you see are tubes. The only thing we're going to have is a heavy duty gear bag attached to the baggage floor/3rd passenger seat base. We'll be able to put a headset, windshield cleaner and so on in it, but nothing else. If it doesn't fit in the gear bag, it doesn't go in the fuselage. That same gear bag can act as the seat cushion (if you're not too picky) for a passenger when needed. EVERYTHING else will go in the Pod. Randy's Pod is so awesome. It's the biggest, lightest, strongest (I believe), most versatile, easiest to use Pod out there. It comes with everything including quick disconnect straps so when you get to your campsite you can remove the Pod and run around light. Very cool.

The other pleasure is dealing with Randy, great guy all the way around.

I'll add more details and pictures when the Pod shows up.

 

[Eddie Foy]

To bad I can't use it on my PA-18.

Eddie

 

[D.A.]

To bad I can't use it on my PA-18...

That's the nice part about being experimental. If you don't need to use your Cub commercially, I think it's the only way to go.

 

[D.A.]

Well, I tackled the gap seal tape residue tonight, whatever it is. Man that stuff is tough, but Goo Gone made short work of it. I could see the lighter residue coming off in about 10 seconds and everything was off in a few minutes. Still a lot more residue to go but at least I know we've got something that will work to remove it. I wish I could find out what this tape was!

 

[DW]

just buy CC gap seals ...I used tape for years ...pain in the A##

 

[D.A.]

just buy CC gap seals ...

I'll check it out, thanks. Missed you at the Fly-In.... Yeah, my problem isn't finding a proper gap seal, it's getting all this tape residue off the airplane. It wasn't just used on the tail surfaces, it's on many other areas as well and its amazingly tough!

 

[D.A.]

Does pulling the engine back a significant amount increase TO and/or Landing performance? I know it takes a nice flying Cub and makes it even nicer, but my question is about performance. I know this has been talked about on here in the past but for the life of me I can't find any threads on it. I know there was a guy (With a Blue and white Cub I think) that pulled the engine back until the accessory case was at the firewall. He might have even done some fuselage frame mods in the area of the firewall to get the engine back as far as possible, but I can't find that thread. So at the risk of boring everyone with a repeat of this topic, will pulling the engine back 5 to 7 inches shorten the TO or Landing? I know the Orange Breeden Cub had a really short mount as well. We have to get a mount made so now would be the time to do it if its a worthy pursuit.

Thanks in advance.

 

[skywagon8a]

How much space do you have between the firewall and the ignition leads on the back of the mags? You do not want the wires to be rubbing against the firewall. How about the wires or bourdon tube for the oil temperature sensor? Those components do need maintenance, leave enough space to work on them.

Do a sample weight and balance to see how much the CG does move. Moving the battery back would likely be more effective and easier to accomplish.

One thing a mechanic likes is a lot of space behind the engine to work.

 

[D.A.]

How much space do you have between the firewall and the ignition leads...How about the...oil temperature sensor?

We won't need the clearance that a traditional ignition system requires, our plug wires won't be coming off the back of the mags and I'm hoping to run a remote oil filter/temp bulb set up.

But my real question is still performance. Will pulling the engine back 6 inches take 3 feet off my take off and/or landing distance?

 

[skywagon8a]

It still boils down to a weight and balance question as well as the configuration of your particular airplane. Do a sample weight and balance. If the CG moves back a couple of inches then the answer will likely be yes.

 

[tempdoug]

Does pulling the engine back a significant amount increase TO and/or Landing performance? I know it takes a nice flying Cub and makes it even nicer, but my question is about performance. I know this has been talked about on here in the past but for the life of me I can't find any threads on it. I know there was a guy (With a Blue and white Cub I think) that pulled the engine back until the accessory case was at the firewall. He might have even done some fuselage frame mods in the area of the firewall to get the engine back as far as possible, but I can't find that thread. So at the risk of boring everyone with a repeat of this topic, will pulling the engine back 5 to 7 inches shorten the TO or Landing? I know the Orange Breeden Cub had a really short mount as well. We have to get a mount made so now would be the time to do it if its a worthy pursuit.

Thanks in advance.

That was Mongo, i wonder what happened to him?http://www.supercub.org/forum/showthread.php?43138-Time-to-experiment&highlight=mongo

 

[D.A.]

Tempdoug, you're right, that was it, Mongo. Thanks for posting that link, that was a real interesting read. We've had threads on just about everything else, now that a little time has gone by I'd like to see a thread just on mount length/engine placement.

Thanks man.

 

[D.A.]

My pod showed up today. It wasn't well protected and got damaged in shipping but I'll still use it. We removed the old extended baggage and will replace it with the pod and a removable gear bag on the 3rd passenger seat/floor. Excuse the mess on the floor, I'd just unpacked the pod.

 

[D.A.]

I should have mentioned that the removed baggage compartment is sitting on the table behind the pod for size comparison. I'll get a better picture. The extended baggage was deeper but the pod is much longer and sits under the CG. Plus, once we get to where we're going, we can remove both the pod (Quick disconnect clamps) and the gear bag and go play in a lighter airplane. There's also no interior in the airplane, you look inside and all you'll see are seats and tubes. It had foam panels painted and wedged in between the fabric and fuselage tubing, we've removed those as well.

 

[D.A.]

Does anyone know of an oil screen blank off plate for running a remote oil filter and temp bulb? I did some searching and I can find 90 degree spin on adapters and I can find remote oil filter adapters but none of them reduce the stack up distance at the back of the engine. I was hoping for a blank off plate with oil in and an oil out ports for fittings so a remote filter and temp bulb could be run with flex lines. Does something like that exist?
Thanks.