• If You Are Having Trouble Logging In with Your Old Username and Password, Please use this Forgot Your Password link to get re-established.
  • Hey! Be sure to login or register!

Cessna 180 Paint and Avionics upgrade

George

That is what prompted the initial inquiry, but it apparently upset a few people. I have managed 100 hours in the C-180 in the last 12 months, sold the Supercub 3 weeks ago. Need to get floats for the C-180 for next season. Lots of places for the aviation budget to get spent just looking for the right deals.


Maybe you need to get a sugar momma to pay for your flying:lol:

Sorry to hear you had to sell the cub, but good to know you are flying more than I
 
Dale,

When Willard painted my 180 he was very particular about the primer and he only used Imron, which he mixed himself. A few years ago when a friend painted his own plane he used base coat/clear coat, which is what most cars use these days. What's your preference? Is Imron a thing of the past on airplanes?

Decided on a scheme yet? That was a process for me. I have a book that shows every year of all 100 and 200 series Cessnas in stock paint if you'd like to borrow it.

Scooter's -12 and my 180 having a little reunion. My paint is 13+ years old and still looks great. I hope yours turns out well.

IMG_0548.webp
 

Attachments

  • IMG_0548.webp
    IMG_0548.webp
    823.8 KB · Views: 215
Last edited:
...... he used base coat/clear coat, which is what most cars use these days. What's your preference? ....

When my plane was painted, I was given the option of a clear top coat, which I opted not to use. I later learned that the clear top coat requires an "update" every few years. Glad that I didn't do it.
 
SB, I think every one wants to borrow your book. I will stand in line for a look!

PS. Single stage paint is the way to go on airplanes. Base coat/Clear Coat makes no sense for an airplane. There may be some who still shoot it.

Imron has changed over the years. The various versions are responses to keeping the air clean in Southern California community zoning areas where auto-body shop activity is high. Some of the versions have steeper learning curves than others.

As to keeping it local....I am all for that.

PPS BreakerSwitch placards/tags.............I have broached the subject and gotten a positive response for the fabrication of individual placards to fit Potter and Brumfield/Tyco Industries breaker switches.

My hope is to get completely away from the common engraved plastic thing glued onto the panel above a row of switches, and, more importantly, enable the changing of a switch or layout without necessitating a completely new engraved placard. Stay Tuned! :)
 
Dave,

You're welcome to borrow the book. Just ask.

The Zolatone in my interior is clear coated. It does make touch ups more difficult to blend but I think in my interior's case it's more durable than without. I may be wrong but that was the thinking.

Keep us informed on the panel switch labels. I don't mind my phenolic placards but they'd be easy to change for something nicer.
 
Dale,

When Willard painted my 180 he was very particular about the primer and he only used Imron, which he mixed himself. A few years ago when a friend painted his own plane he used base coat/clear coat, which is what most cars use these days. What's your preference? Is Imron a thing of the past on airplanes?

Decided on a scheme yet? That was a process for me. I have a book that shows every year of all 100 and 200 series Cessnas in stock paint if you'd like to borrow it.

Scooter's -12 and my 180 having a little reunion. My paint is 13+ years old and still looks great. I hope yours turns out well.

View attachment 12992

Decided on a scheme yet? Funny you should ask Stewart, I was sketching on one last night. I appreciate the offer and would like to borrow the paint scheme book to see if I can get a little more inspiration.

I am planning on Imron paint and want a good job as it is a 25 year item that likely will outlast my flying career.


P.S. I have may found a more cost effective installation option in Alaska for the GNS-430 which is a good thing still doing a little research.
 
One way to spruce up a copy of an original 2 color paint design is to add a 1/4" separation stripe between the base and trim colors. Make the stripe of a medium tone. When I did my 1976 185 over in it's original dark blue on white scheme, I added a medium blue separation stripe. Makes it look like a million bucks.
 
One way to spruce up a copy of an original 2 color paint design is to add a 1/4" separation stripe between the base and trim colors. Make the stripe of a medium tone. When I did my 1976 185 over in it's original dark blue on white scheme, I added a medium blue separation stripe. Makes it look like a million bucks.

Yes, Good Point........a small change like that can make a huge difference. Also some colors don't look nice together unless there is a bit of separation.

A friends recent new paint job has this issue. Nicely applied Willard job, but the scheme needed something that it doesn't have...........a bit of separation. ......in my opinion..........:)
 
A long time ago at the airport where I was working as a young A&P, we recovered a TriPacer. The owner's wife wanted it painted a dark blue and red. My boss tried, to no avail, to discourage this. She insisted, so we did. When she saw it :evil: . So we painted a 1/4" white stripe separating the red and blue. It made all the difference in the world. A simple fix to a major decision error.
 
Yes Pete. That is the simple kind of thing that would help the charcoal and red that lay adjacent to each other on this new 180 paint scheme.

SB......What is the title and author of your Cessna book. It occurred to me to own a copy would be nice if one can be found. If not, I specifically am looking to see a decent photo of a '53 C-180. I have only ever seen very grainy black and wihites of the original '53 scheme.

Thanks. D
 
Dale,

If you think you'll want to change the front or side glass in the next few years? Do it before you paint and you'll make your life easier. Not that rivets can't be touched up but it's better to coordinate projects when you can. Especially if considering going with a strapless windshield.

For the times you do need to do touch-ups? These little micro brushes are the cat's meow. Make sure to save some paint for the inevitable. http://promotorcarproducts.com/pbrush.htm/

SB
 
dalec: Did you try Scott on the Kenai Airport? He does a lot of electronic/radio installations. He does a good job. Not sure about his prices. May be worth a call.
TJ
 
Remember to put on the side by the door: This aircraft was swiped from George Campbell!:lol::-P;-)


But seriously, on guy took his RV to Boeing or Pain field for the paint, it turned out nice. Can get the info if you would like.

On colors, please think about being seen also. Your cub was a bit difficult to spot, and I have flown right next to some colors that you can not see to save your life.

You live in a very high traffic area, a visible plane would be a good idea.
 
x2 on the being seen, dark leading edges coming at you are very difficult to be seen!

Also, on the being seen topic, everyone TURN YOUR LIGHTS ON! Spring for the bucks and get LED lights, they last forever, will cost you less in the long run, are bright and you can leave them on all the time. The life you save may be your own.

Ok, off soap box now....
 
Last edited:
Also, on the being seen topic, everyone TURN YOUR LIGHTS ON! Spring for the bucks and get LED lights, they last forever, will cost you less in the long run, are bright and you can leave them on all the time. The life you save may be your own.

Ok, off soap box now....

Get a WigWag control to go with them. Flashing enhances the visibility.
 
The only thing I'd change about my own paint would be to add color on the leading edges to help with defrosting. Not a huge deal but there are a couple of days every winter where I'd benefit from solar defrosting, especially with VGs.

I've never found a color that was more beneficial than another since the background clutter varies from light to dark, trees from green to yellow to white, skies from blue to gray, etc. Flashing lights are for recognition. Paint colors are for pleasing appearance.

PS- Dale, if you have skis you should consider having them painted, too. In that case white is the best choice assuming you'll have some white on the airplane.
 
Last edited:
Remember to put on the side by the door: This aircraft was swiped from George Campbell!:lol::-P;-)


But seriously, on guy took his RV to Boeing or Pain field for the paint, it turned out nice. Can get the info if you would like.

On colors, please think about being seen also. Your cub was a bit difficult to spot, and I have flown right next to some colors that you can not see to save your life.

You live in a very high traffic area, a visible plane would be a good idea.

Thanks for the ideas, my C-180 has landing lights in both wings and a pulse light system along with strobes. If you can't see that coming at you, you probably shouldn't be flying.

As for color, I am with Stewart on the dark leading edges. I am sure the plane will be some combination of white, dark blue and a narrower accent stripe just not sure off the color for that.
 
I am sure the plane will be some combination of white, dark blue and a narrower accent stripe just not sure off the color for that.

Light blue. My 185 is dark blue on white with a light blue 1/4" stripe separating the dark blue and white using the original 1976 paint design. Looks great.
 
Back
Top