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Building a Javron Cub

I have know Gregg for many years. I am the one who restored his first J-3 and the Flitfire j3. His shop is amazing. It is so clean and organized. You could eat off the floor. I am amazed everytime I go down to his place.
Thanks to Grant, I spent the day yesterday with an "expert" float mechanic and learned a ton about how to maintain my floats. Although they are in excellent shape I am looking forward to doing a really thorough "annual" inspection on them in anticipation of next summer. With the holidays I have not had a lot of time to work on the plane. It will all get done......somehow.

I did order a new sleeping pad. My old Thermarest is about the only thing that somehow survived the mishap, and at about 10 years old, it has developed a slow leak so I wake up on the ground. MMR (Mark) did his usual awesome internet research and recommended the SynMat9 from this company.......http://www.exped.com/usa/en

Looking forward to seeing everyone at the Alaska Airmans Trade show in the spring. Already got reservations at the Courtyard Marriott.

Will post more as I get things going. I'm excited about 2016, its going to be great!! Happy New Year everyone.

This is the message I got from Mark.........

Here’s the link to the pad I bought.
Promo code is: save20 (20% off)
Over $50 free shipping


This got it to 119.00 with no tax and free shipping. It is about 7 ounces lighter and packs about 1/2 the size of the Thermarest. If you are super worried about weight the SynMat7 is a little thinner and thus about 7 ounces lighter than the above mentioned SynMat9

Hope this helps

I have the same pad and it has held up well over the past 4+ years of occasional use. I think you'll find it's more comfortable than the Thermarest, though a bit more work to inflate.
I have the same pad and it has held up well over the past 4+ years of occasional use. I think you'll find it's more comfortable than the Thermarest, though a bit more work to inflate.

My 6" thick Wally World mattress that cost $14 was working fine for over 6 years till some Yahoo's at LHV zip tied it and my tent to the side of a chain link fence one night.

". Ifound these Piccolo pipes at Wicks." .

I have ran a set of these for years on my 0320 , they work great and I have see no power loss,

This part of the thread may not be interesting to as many folks, but I will post some info from the float rebuild and more install stuff.


The front mechanism has been totally gone through. Everything cleaned, checked for wear, lubricated, corrosion proofed, etc. All service letters, and bulletins, were checked and complied with. It has a fair number of parts, kinda like a tailwheel assembly.


These are the front wheels. The inside mating surfaces were showing signs of stress. They will get etched, alodined, primered and painted, before reassembly.


I like to use these products from PPG for metal prep. Etch and alodine for aluminum and also steel. They call it metal cleaner and metal conditioner, or aluminum cleaner and aluminum conditioner.


After everything is rebuilt "baby will get new shoes". The old tires did not look all that bad but as best I can tell they were original, thus 17 years old.


Part of the main gear assembly getting the cleaning, inspection, check-up, lube, reassembly, etc.


Several folks I spoke to, including the folks at Wip, recommended this grease. I got a case.


Because the gear must be cycled to be adjusted and worked on, my pump assembly had to be removed from the plane, and set up for use.


I acquired my fittings from several places and they were different colors. I had them cleaned and re anodized so they all match.

Hopefully someone will find something helpful here

The nose tires are the same as the Scott 3200 Tail wheel. McCreary 2.8/2.5 X 4
The mains are AirTrac 500-5 6 ply

From one perspective the weight of the plane is spread out over 4 contact points Vs 3 so that might have an impact on soft fields. I don't have any experience to address your question.

I have landed on grass with no issues at all. I can't say I've really done any "soft field" landings.

Hope this helps

Bill you have too much time on your hands. You have enough grease for a 1000 trips to Alaska. Rubber today is nowhere as good as it was 17 years ago. Your never going to get close to me when you come visit and see the junk that I have fun flying :oops:

Hey Bill,

When does the "Flying a Javron Cub" thread start, I assume you are going to finish that epic run you started?

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Glenn - boy you are right. I have already started selling the extra grease. If anyone needs a little Aeroshell22 grease just let me know. LOL.... I've got plenty.

Kirby - Thanks for asking and yes, Lord willing, I hope to try again to fly the "Trip of a lifetime" that I didn't finish the last time. I have not decided on doing a thread on that.


I am asked........."What would you do different if you were to build again tomorrow?" Here is a thought.


Note where the front of the pod sits. The pod is fixed in place due to the aft wires from the floats. I suspect just about all pods are going to be very close to this location. This drives the location of your hydraulic lines for brakes, skis, floats. You think to yourself........"I'm never going to use a pod, floats, hyd skis etc". I think you might change your mind, or perhaps end up selling it to someone who will want to do that, so I propose that you consider .................


Welding in a small (say 2" X 4") steel .050 plate/bracket right in this area, forward of this crossbar, flush with the fabric line, to give you a solid place to have your hydraulic lines exit the fuselage. The R you see in the photo is "Right Rear" on the rudder pedal so I could keep things straight on reassembly. The hyd line exit needs to be forward of this cross tube that my finger is on.


Pardon the dirt, its a work in progress.
This is how, and where, my hydraulics will exit. It will work well and be a pretty clean install but it would have been even better to have a permanent mount rather than have them attached to a inspection cover. You will need three fittings on each side. One for "brakes", an "up" line and a "down" line. The two "up" lines will be joined with a crossover line, as will the "down" lines. Thus I have two "T" bulkhead fittings (AN804) in front of the right rudder pedal because that is where my hand hyd pump is and where the hydraulic lines go through the floor, and a brake fitting (AN833). The two "T" fittings have a crossover line to the left side where I have 3, 90 degree AN833 fittings. This would all have been much easier to do before the floorboards and covering were installed, but at that time I had no idea how all this was going to go together. Hopefully, this will help someone.

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I had to do a little painting today. Here is a tip - paint does not dry worth a poo poo at 65 degrees. It's winter here and temp at night is dropping to single digits. When I run the hangar at 65, things in the hangar will be closer to 60. That just does not work for paint. I like to use a bunch of lights to raise the temp. Much cheaper than trying to heat the hangar to 80.


You can use your handy dandy temp gun (you got one for Christmas - right?) to check how things are cooking. I find I can usually get the parts up to around 90 degrees. Left overnight they will be well done in the morning. Try it, you'll like it.

Hope this helps

in the smith 12 and the pa-12 that javeron built for me when he was contracted by TCOW, both had a plate welded in for amphib hydraulic line fittings, they even already had the through holes in them and were powder coated with the rest of the fuse. So does Jay not put these in any more? Maybe a heads up to others as i am sure he would if it were requested.
Marc, I think that Bill was counting ounces when he specked his kit. Now it has bitten him. :lol: Mine also has those plates welded in.
Well ......I wish I could say I was counting ounces, but the truth is I knew I needed them and it was on my "list" .....but I did not know where to put in the plates. Just a lack of knowledge. .I asked a couple of folks and they did not have a good answer. I guess I did not ask the right people.
Eventually it turned into......"I'll figure it out later"

Hopefully, now folks will know where to weld in those plates.

Of course there are a lot of ways to skin a cat...... YMMV......and all that.....


This is not the best photo but it is all I have. This shows the crossover lines and how they are run. On the top (this is right side when in the airplane) in the photo are the bulkhead "T" fittings that the hyd pump lines connect into. Bottom in the photo (this would be the left side once in the aircraft) are the 90 degree bulkhead fittings. If I had it to do over I would have done this before covering and just capped the two fittings on each side until I added the floats. Not shown are the brake fittings though you can see the holes they go into.

Hope this helps


Borrowed these Plastic lined pliers from Buck.


That, plus a strap wrench, and a LOT of umph from Mark and myself, with Buck's supervision, allowed us to get the new style Hyd actuators apart for the rebuild.


The old style, non-rebuildable, Hyd actuator is on the left. The right two, black ones, are the new actuators. These have now been cleaned, inspected and rebuilt with new O-rings, seals, wipers, etc. Ready to install on the mains. The nose gear ones are the old style but seem to be working just fine so I will leave those in until after this season and make that a winter upgrade project for next year.


I know 95% of you guys already know this but for the new guys.....you can get the piston out of your brake caliper by just shooting a little air in the Hyd line. Be sure to hold it, or wrap it in a rag, so when it pops out it does not fall to the floor and get messed up. There is an O-ring on the piston that you will want to replace when you clean it up. Not really much to "rebuild" as that is all there is. Clean it up with solvent and a scotch-brite pad, replace the O-ring, and put new brake pads on and its "rebuilt".


Brake pads are really easy with this tool. You can get it from AC Spruce, Avery (Bob and Judy Avery retired and were bought out by Cleveland Tool), USTool etc. Link to AC Spruce for the tool.......http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/topages/RapcoBrake.php

It will cost about 40 bucks and will pay for itself pretty quick. Or split it with a couple of hangar friends. It is not a tool you will use every day but it sure is handy. I like to hit the rivet with a #30 drill to get it started before using the tool to press the rivet out. You don't need to drill the whole rivet out, just a couple of seconds with a drill will thin the rivet material out so it squeezes out nice and easy. Then use the tool to squeeze in the new rivets and whaalah......you have new brake pads. Pretty cool.


And there you have it. Newly rebuilt brake caliper with new brake pads. All in a days work.
Folks - just to be sure you get it right. The puck in the photo above is not how it goes in the caliper. The o-ring needs to go away from the brake pad. The O-ring goes in towards the bottom of the pocket. That piston goes in and out. If you put the puck in the wrong way, with the 0-ring close to the brake pad, as the puck is forced out by brake pressure it may go out far enough to pop out of the cyl, then you will have brake failure.

Hope this helps

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