cubdriver2
FRIEND
kevin said:STMAWR14 said:So why did he put in a longer spring? What was the overall orginal length? and what is the new length with the longer spring?
I put in a longer spring because I am planning on using an O 320, PA-18 feathers and wanted to duplicate the PA-18 tail section. The back half of the plane will be -18. The lengths are shown in the pictures with the tape measures.
kevin said:Mike,
...... Would you/have you used the longer, heavier spring with a custom made shorter cable to compensate for the overall length of the stock spring/cable combination?
KG
mike mcs repair said:kevin said:Mike,
...... Would you/have you used the longer, heavier spring with a custom made shorter cable to compensate for the overall length of the stock spring/cable combination?
KG
yes, I always use the old setup to make the new one.... (I did not make stewarts, he had already done it, but I assume he made it off the -12 one, not the -18)
kevin said:mike mcs repair said:kevin said:Mike,
...... Would you/have you used the longer, heavier spring with a custom made shorter cable to compensate for the overall length of the stock spring/cable combination?
KG
yes, I always use the old setup to make the new one.... (I did not make stewarts, he had already done it, but I assume he made it off the -12 one, not the -18)
Mike, just so I understand, you are using the heavier, longer PA-18 springs and making your own cables. The length of your new cable is shorter than the original -12 cable because the -18 spring is longer. So if the -18 spring is say 3" longer -12 spring, the new cable you make is 3" shorter? By doing this, your cable/spring length is the same as the original?
skywagon8a said:Perhaps someone here with a known good 12 will measure the angle between the bottom of the wing at the root and the stabilizer with it trimmed full nose up against the stop (longerons). This should give the answer of any discrepancy in any repairs to the fuselage that may have been done in the past.
Does anyone know if the 12 engine mount has the same 4 degree nose down as the 18? And is the firewall perpendicular to the longitudinal axis as is the 18?
This information should help Seaworthy get started in his investigation.
StewartB said:Now I'm really confused. On page 2 of this thread you said your yoke was exactly like in Kevin's pictures, which is the same as in my pictures. Now you're saying that's upside down? I'd argue that. Upside down according to whom?
One of you mechanics correct me if I'm wrong, but when setting my screw up the nose up trim was limited by the cross tube hitting the airframe tubes. That limit was the same whether the yoke was flat side up or down. The nose down travel has a greater range with the yoke in as seen in Kevin's or my pictures. For normal ops I don't know that it would matter which way the yoke is installed. It was determined that flat side up was correct and there was more travel available so we went with it.
Stewart
StewartB said:Kevin,
It appears to me that nose up trim (leading edge of stabilizer down) would still easily reach the point of interference between the carry through and the airframe structure. I don't see how the yoke being upside down could impact nose up trim. I can imagine it would limit nose down. As I said, I may be confused but looking at those pictures reinforces what I remember seeing when assembling my jackscrew.
Stewart
12 Geezer said:cafi19 said:I was kind of wondering about the Kenmore STC too.....Why would you move the engine forward 2 inches.....
Was the STC a gross weight increase??
I'm not following.
Thanks
cafi
I had the Kenmore STC. It uses the stock PA-12 mount with a doubler on the lower legs, but it isn't lengthened. The plane was quite nose-heavy, and I'm using the Crosswinds short mount STC in this rebuild.
Steve Pierce said:.... the trim handle is on the sidewall the yoke should point down. If the trim handle is on the ceiling the yoke should point up
Steve Pierce said:According to Clyde Smith the trim handle is on the sidewall the yoke should point down. If the trim handle is on the ceiling the yoke should point up. I would make sure you have plenty of trim per the type certificate data sheets. I have seen way too many repaired fuselages that have changed critical angles and control movements for the worst.