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belly pod on floats

bush4

Registered User
Hi, I purchased a carbon belly pod from Carbon Concept LLC and I figure to install it on my sc this weekend. I just ask me how I'll fit the water rudders pickup tube, mine is on my left. My plan is to put a fuel bladder in the bellypod, my fuel pump, pipes are already installed. any advices? hint?

thank you


Bush4
 
I did not want to cut the ty wrap but hopefully you can see what I did. Made a stainless strap on spreader bar with an eyebolt. Attached a cable and pulley to the eyebolt approx 15 in. Cut the end of the fuselage cable tube so the cable comes out straight


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Mark
 

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If you can blow this up it might help understand what I was trying to explain.
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Mark
 

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Thank you very much Mark! it's a good Idea, I was thinking to cut the tube and weld a piece of pipe between the flange and the elbow...
 
Aktango58, why stainless eyebolt? I already have some an eyebolt ;-)


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Bush4,
Look at AKPA/18's picture. stainless bands and rusty eye bolts. If you use stainless eye bolts it will be a lot easier to remove later and not damage the strut. Chip D.
 
I didn’t knew that product... thank you Glen


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Par al ketone was my best friend when I flew an amphib Beaver in Kodiak.....great corrosion preventative. Mechanics in ANC used to hate seeing that thing come in for inspection....they had to remove all this stuff before they could find the plane.

MTV
 
When I was in high school, I worked for a guide that had a Turbo Beaver on anfibs. When he first got it my job was to replace all the steel sheet metal screws with stainless screws, coat all of the exposed nuts, and bolt heads with Par-Al-Ketone. The Par-Al-Ketone did a great job of protecting the steel fasteners from the saltwater spray. Be careful and do not let it get to close to your favorite sneakers, it’s some black nasty gooey stuff.
 
Job’s done! IMG_1408.JPGIMG_1409.JPGIMG_1410.JPG

I’ve cut a little hole in the bottom of the door and replaced the piano wire with another one in stainless and bend the end to make it easy to remove.


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Looks like you rear wires barely missed the door hinge.
Can you post a photo of how they look from the inside? ( how much in the way are they?)
I'm wanting a pod for my float cub but the new Landis certified CF unit wont work due to wire interference with their door. I was bummed when they told me that as it good for 170 lbs.
 
Steel actually comes off easier than stainless when flying salt water, just twist 1/2 turn and it falls off, or in two years it departs on it's own.:evil:

all the coatings you put on can help, but using stainless takes less time, looks better, and my wife is not displeased when I forget to separate my work clothing from my 'been under the airplane' clothing in laundry.:oops:

And before you start on doing my own laundry, then I hear about making a mess of her machine!;-)
 
Steve, yes it hanging for now, I’ve ordered a couple a pulley with bracket from aircraft spruce but it’s back order until may 1st... anyway, the lake are still frozen here. I’ll need to bend pieces of aluminum to hold the pulleys against the rear strut.

Cubpilot2, yes I’ll take some pictures to show you how we’ve fit it and how we’ve mesure for the holes ;-)

Aktango58, I never fly salt water. I’m about 200nm from salt water :-)



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Cubpilot2, Now I have 2 piano wire to hold the door, easily removable


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Cubpilot2, Now I have 2 piano wire to hold the door, easily removable


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Thanks for the photos.
I think that I would be a bit concerned about the hinge wearing into the brace wire if the pod were to shift any; perhaps from flight loads or the load you put in it.
I would think that more clearance along with a rubber sleeve over the wire would be a good thing.
You don’t want any wear / cuts on those highly stressed wires!

Spoke with Randy at the trade show and he mentioned something about a split door for floats. Something to think about.
 
We have though about split door but how to seal the gap? And anyway, it’s easier to load and unload the pod by removing the piano wire from the hinge rather than struggle with the door against the struts bolts ends...

I have a bunch of rubber grommets I can put around the brace wire. I don’t know if aluminum and/or carbon fibre could damage stainless wire... I have about 1/8 inch loose all around the brace wire.


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does anyone have better pictures of how the water rudder is rigged? I have a belly fuel pod and its going on floats next year for the 1st time since I installed it.
 
Describe what pictures you want. Rudder rigging or rudder retract. And what exactly you need.
 
Describe what pictures you want. Rudder rigging or rudder retract. And what exactly you need.

My bad should have been more specific. I'm looking for pics of the rudder retract rigging and parts please. I think I read the fuel pod gets in the way the regular way the cable is run so a pulley is added on one of the spreader bar? I also recall someone suggesting using para chord for that section as it would rub on tank without damaging it...don't wanna go that route. Thanks
 
My bad should have been more specific. I'm looking for pics of the rudder retract rigging and parts please. I think I read the fuel pod gets in the way the regular way the cable is run so a pulley is added on one of the spreader bar? I also recall someone suggesting using para chord for that section as it would rub on tank without damaging it...don't wanna go that route. Thanks

We run small nylon chord like para chord on the beaver, when it breaks it is much easier and faster to repair.

Rigging? find an angle from either spreader bar to the retract tube under the plane- that is where to put the pulley (band around spreader bar), and run pull up chord from inside out the tube, through the pulley and connect to the pull up cable from the rudders. The more simple the better!
 
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