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And so it begins

Mr. Ed

MEMBER
PNW
Scratch building, variation on a theme.

It began a couple years ago pondering what I could do to a PA18 to better suit my mission. And if I made all the mods I desired, would it still be a PA18 derivative or be closer to something else which would lead me logically to build something else. I started writing down ideas for modifications: higher gross weight, more accessible baggage, wider fuselage, decreased pitch angle on landing, hard points on wings for mounting whatever stuff I want to mount, improved door geometry so I don’t have to be “pretzel boy” to get in and out, etc., etc..

After that exercise the question was: Could I develop the necessary skills to build it? I had a piece of crap tig welder so I replaced that. I bought a large quantity of 4130 tubing from an aircraft welding shop that was liquidating and set about hacking it into small pieces to practice welding clusters. I built notching jigs that attach to my metal lathe and started welding. Initially the clusters looked like something out of the movie Elephant Man. So, I invested in private lessons. I spent eight months, welding two to five hours a day, three to four days a week. I dated each cluster, cut some apart to polish and etch the welds allowing inspection for defects and beat others apart with a sledge to test failure points. About eight months in, I was happy with the results.

I bought the Northland drawings, made prints, drew on modifications, made changes to those and started looking at other modified Cubs. I found other kit builders were doing mods I thought I had dreamed up. Although, nobody seemed to be doing all of my mods in one kit. One kit supplier was doing most of mine plus others I hadn’t thought about. There are some nice kits out there! That led to the question: Why reinvent the wheel? I guess, because the wheel is there. And also because the wheel costs a pile of money. If we settled for the status quo, everybody would still be flying around in a J3.

Since all the mods were forward of the tail feathers, I built the tail feathers. In need of someone with significantly more brain power than I possess, I started searching for an engineer willing to evaluate the proposed fuselage changes. I found a willing fellow who is now crunching numbers. Meanwhile, I built the jig table, fuselage rotisserie and an engine stand. I also bought the wings from a fabulous kit manufacturer who’s tested them to the gross weight I desired.

As summer play time comes to an end and our typically SUCKY winter weather sets in I’ll have a project to keep me occupied. I don’t have the desire to post the detail that other builders have but will post photos of the progress and pose questions when I get stuck on something. Lots of great info on this site and all of your collective wisdom is appreciated.
 
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Mr. Ed, I'm thrilled to see another starting a project. I know you don't want to post details, and I know that takes a lot of time, but remember: we are hungry and want pictures!

Seriously, your start sounds a lot like mine. There is a lot of encouragement and knowledge here.
 
I acquired the horse well before the cart. Titan 340 stroker, injected, dual electronic ignition, hollow crank claims to produce 185 HP.
 
I picked up a load of tubing about five weeks ago but had commitments for a week after that. Still employed, so that takes a bit of my time too. I started setting up the jig table to weld up the sides of the fuselage a month ago. For anyone who hasn’t done this, notching tubing takes a butt load of time and patience. I spend an inordinate amount of time measuring a dozen times, checking angles in multi-tube clusters, standing back and scratching my head and then dicking up the last cut. Getting better though. Both sides are tacked up and the project just became three dimensional today. Lots of jigging to be done prior to doing any more notching and welding. I’ll have to figure out how to post photos.

My Keller flaps were delivered and are still crated in the hangar. Hopefully they won’t turn to dust before I get to that point in the project.

Still having fun with it.
 
I picked up a load of tubing about five weeks ago but had commitments for a week after that. Still employed, so that takes a bit of my time too. I started setting up the jig table to weld up the sides of the fuselage a month ago. For anyone who hasn’t done this, notching tubing takes a butt load of time and patience. I spend an inordinate amount of time measuring a dozen times, checking angles in multi-tube clusters, standing back and scratching my head and then dicking up the last cut. Getting better though. Both sides are tacked up and the project just became three dimensional today. Lots of jigging to be done prior to doing any more notching and welding. I’ll have to figure out how to post photos.

My Keller flaps were delivered and are still crated in the hangar. Hopefully they won’t turn to dust before I get to that point in the project.

Still having fun with it.


buy or make(inner thin part, some wires from a flat donor counter gauge, and a chunk of heat shrink outside wired..) https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/topages/pipemaster.php?clickkey=5542203

and then just mark tube, then cut out the tube with regular aviation snips...
https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/topages/actionsnips.php?clickkey=3027198

you won't spend 2 or 3 minutes a joint..... learned that from a guy who built production planes...
 
Talk about learning things from this site! I had never even thought about using snips. It seems so obvious now...
Thanks!
 
An endmill chucked in the lathe and the tube attached to the compound also works great.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Tail post to tail spring bolt hole measurement?

Im welding up the fuselage bottom tubing and I can’t find a drawing on the North Land disk that has the dimension between the tail post center and the center of the bolt hole at the forward end of the tail spring.

Would anybody have a measurement or a drawing # they would like to share?

Thanks for any help you can provide.

Denis
 
Do you have NL12183? It looks like 5", if I understand what you are looking for.

Vic
 
Thanks Vic,

I saw the 5” notation but assumed that was for the bracket for the stabilizer wires. Looking again, I can see you are correct which means there’s no dimension given on that drawing for the wire bracket. Solved one problem, found another.

Denis
 
Thanks Vic,

I saw the 5” notation but assumed that was for the bracket for the stabilizer wires. Looking again, I can see you are correct which means there’s no dimension given on that drawing for the wire bracket. Solved one problem, found another.

Denis

20642. 6 3/4 inches.
 
Still kicking around flap operation/handle and would appreciate information/opinions. The fuselage is almost ready for the rotisserie, tail feathers are built, wing is ordered from Javron and awaiting delivery, Keller/Airframes Alaska flaps have been delivered and the Titan 340 is crated in my hangar.

I like the concept of the overhead flap lever. It gets rid of a bunch of cable routing monkey motion. The cons I can think of are: 1. Something else to crack your skull on. 2. The position looks like it could cause an issue with your arm side swiping the throttle when operating the flaps.

For those of you that have the overhead lever, and those that have flown with both, would you care to opine? Why you liked or didn’t like it.

Also, is there a source from which I can purchase the overhead flap lever assembly?

Thanks
 
What size flap and aileron are you building? Pstol flaps?


Sent from my iPhone using SuperCub.Org
 
I started cutting tubing mid October. Progress has been slow but steady. The modifications to the fuselage have slowed the process considerably. I built the tail feathers about a year ago. Still having fun.......most days.

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I pulled the fuselage off the jig table yesterday and got it mounted on the rotisserie today.

3505CC67-55AB-44FE-903A-FE89A53B0047.jpg

Last week my wings arrived from Javron. They look great!

0E6FA9DB-7968-4693-A5F2-9C77F34B4825.jpg
 

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Still kicking around flap operation/handle and would appreciate information/opinions. The fuselage is almost ready for the rotisserie, tail feathers are built, wing is ordered from Javron and awaiting delivery, Keller/Airframes Alaska flaps have been delivered and the Titan 340 is crated in my hangar.

I like the concept of the overhead flap lever. It gets rid of a bunch of cable routing monkey motion. The cons I can think of are: 1. Something else to crack your skull on. 2. The position looks like it could cause an issue with your arm side swiping the throttle when operating the flaps.

For those of you that have the overhead lever, and those that have flown with both, would you care to opine? Why you liked or didn’t like it.

Also, is there a source from which I can purchase the overhead flap lever assembly?

Thanks


i think oli, here, used a toyota park brake, search his stuff.
quote_icon.png
Originally Posted by RaisedByWolves
Do you have some more pics of the over head flap system? I'd be interested in seeing them.
Sorry for the delay...

The handle is a modified old Toyota car handbrake.

 
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I started cutting tubing mid October. Progress has been slow but steady. The modifications to the fuselage have slowed the process considerably. I built the tail feathers about a year ago. Still having fun......

Looks to me like you are moving at a pretty good clip! The Javron wings look impressive. I'm still going back and forth on building wings. I planned on scratch building, but that package looks very appealing.

Question on the wings. What gross weight are they designed for?

Vic
 
Javron wings are good for a GW of 2200 pounds. I had an engineer look at my fuselage mods and make changes where required. I wanted 2200 Utility category but couldn’t get there, at least not easily. Ended up with 2000 Utility and 2200 normal. I hope to finish with an empty weight 1200 or less.
 
...For those of you that have the overhead lever, and those that have flown with both, would you care to opine? Why you liked or didn’t like it.
Also, is there a source from which I can purchase the overhead flap lever assembly? ..

A couple guys I know used an old TriPacer flap handle.
I'm curious as to whether people really think the overhead flap handle is an improvement, and why.
Looks like just one more thing to impede your vision, and maybe whack your head on.
 
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I’m about to build the birdcage. I have a wing root template bolted to each wing attach hinge. Question for folks who have done this before: Do you build the birdcage lower than the height of the top of the wing so that the skylight ends up flush? If not, is it noticeable? I assume the windshield lays up over the top of the skylight, then gets covered by a trim strip. Doesn’t that double layer cause a noticeable bump?

If if anybody has photos during the build of what you’ve done and then again of the finished project I would appreciate it.

Thanks,

Mr. Ed
 

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1025 steel.

Specs call for 1025 sheet steel in five thicknesses from .032 to .125. I’ve called every steel yard around Portland and nobody stocks the stuff but can get it if I want 4’x 10’ whole sheets! Searching Aircraft Spruce nets zero results for 1025. So the question for all you scratch builders is: Are you using 1025 and if so where are you sourcing it? If not, what are you using? From what I’ve read, 1025 falls within the “mild steel” classification. I just don’t know what would be a suitable replacement if I can’t find reasonable quantities around here.

Thanks for any help you might be able to offer.

Denis
 
The flap handle in a cub and a pacer both suffer from the same issue the Cessna has, having to bend down to reach the handle. Not really an issue on any of them if you always preset some flap for takeoff. Some people don't like to drop the flap handle on landing, they want to lower it all the way down once again head low. Some also have an issue in the cub with flap handle/left leg interfering with full left stick. A helmet is the answer for protection of the head, lot of things to bump into with a cub. I think it would be like toe or heel brakes you will get used to whatever is in the plane.
DENNY
 
Birdcage is built and ready to weld into place. My skylight is .125” thick. I’m scratching my head about what height to set the front of the birdcage. Combined thickness of the windshield and skylight is .25”. Should I set the height of the skylight frame (birdcage) lower in front to compensate for the double thickness of the material it will be supporting? Maybe it’s just not noticeable but if it is I don’t want to have the thing looking like some Neanderthal brow ridge.

Any help would be appreciated. Also, I was able to post photos in previous posts. Now I try and nothing happens. Anybody else having the same issue?

Mr. Ed
 
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