4-Place Super Cub

[skywagon8a]

FA Tiedown straps installed and peeling back the leading edge on the RH wing to run wiring away from the spar mounted magnetometer installation.

Hint: Run the ground wire from whatever that wiring is powering, twisted around that wire past the magnetometer several feet to the grounding location. Four feet rings a bell in my mind. The twisted ground cancels out the magnetism generated in the wire. I learned this trick from a friend who owned a compass manufacturing company.

 

[Acd17931]

Meeting these recommendations are not completely possible but I tried my best and changed out some leading edge hardware and built a mounting bracket for the device off the spar. My twisted shielded wire to the wing tip light also includes the use of the shield as the ground return path.

We will know how well I did during the calibration test.

 

[Acd17931]

3 inch extended gear.
1.5 inch axles.
Welded bushings for a future step.
Bushweels and Groves brakes.

 

[Mauleguy]

I make my own titanium firewalls. Didn't like the way they formed the flange on the Atlee Dodge one. I use an aluminum flange riveted to the titanium. The Ti is way lighter.

I made my own also just the way Steve did. I think it was less then 300.00 for the ti

 

[Acd17931]

May-July

I'm very happy with the build progress this month as I'm learning a lot.

The wings were mocked up in a friend's hangar with the new AGC aluminum struts. I aimed to set up the wing rigging angles and work towards final flight control cable dimensions all around if I could but I didn't finish.

The rudder pedals for example are mounted on top of the flooring and the brakes mounted below. So it's fun to test out the best resting angle that doesn't interfere with the brake cylinders or the firewall.

Tail feather squaring was also fun and I just read the older posts on vertical stab offset angles. I'm interested in reading more into that prior to bending stuff.

I found out I bought the wrong size turnbuckle ends (how lovely) and that my flap brackets for the PSTOL were still back at Javrons (boy was I lucky Mike still had them stashed away somewhere). I'll have to install the PSTOL reinforcement plates as well when that box of parts arrive from MN.

With the aircraft leveled out the GMU-11 was installed on the rh fwd spar otbd of the atlee dodge straps on a mounting bracket I had made.

Level was also interesting here. Without a doorframe screw or junction to plumb off of, who's to say whats level? Anyone know what the degrees at the lower wing rib surface at the root is when "level" and a standard AOI?

I had family in town so I finally was able to get a look at what it will be like with 2 or 3 adults on board. Not bad.

The removable passenger seat (ver1.0) is finally fully welded. The seat back is mounted with turnbuckles on a sliding rail. Leaning it fwd allows the seat to then hinge back and flat allowing for a larger exit/swinging your legs around. I expect the seat back will rest on the seat bottom cushion of the aft passenger seat.

Questions I'm actively searching are:
"best material to cushion the fuel tank straps?"
"What's level?"

-Chet

 

[skywagon8a]

Level was also interesting here. Without a doorframe screw or junction to plumb off of, who's to say whats level? Anyone know what the degrees at the lower wing rib surface at the root is when "level" and a standard AOI?

"What's level?"

-Chet

Look at the side view drawing. Notice the horizontal reference line. Then notice the engine mount lugs at the firewall location. The firewall is perpendicular to the horizontal reference line which is the level line.

https://www.supercubproject.com/drawings/pdfs/A3250006.pdf

 

[fishhook]

Firewall is 90 degrees from long axis, and fuel tank straps either the stuff from the spruce catalog or 3m scotchrap. Double check the airframes strut blocks did not gouge the strut when they installed them. Friends blocks had sharp corners and had a burr pushed up upon close inspection with bore scope. Not a fan of the riveted blocks, alas they do work in lots of other planes.

 

[hotrod180]

Look at the side view drawing. Notice the horizontal reference line. Then notice the engine mount lugs at the firewall location. The firewall is perpendicular to the horizontal reference line which is the level line.

https://www.supercubproject.com/drawings/pdfs/A3250006.pdf

A friend of mine has the same leveling issues on a PA12 he was building.
He also ended up using the factory drawing & the HRL.

 

[Acd17931]

Working on schematics before I buy all the pieces.

Feel free to critique. I've already found some errors while writing this.

Rev1.

Equipment:
Garmin G5+ Magnetometer
Trig radio and XPDR +ADSB bundle
PS Engineering 4 place intercom
EDM 830 engine monitor (might drop the OAT sensor)
AVEO DAYLITE series Nav and Strobe lights
Baja Designs Squadron Pro Combo landing lights
Perihelion design wig wag
B&C Alternator BC410H 20-40 Amps
USB converters.
Artex345 ELT
Earth X Battery ETX680C on firewall

-Arthur

 

[Acd17931]

Added the reinforcement plates on the wings for the PSTOL Flaps. I'm very happy with the fitment. I also made the pitot tube support bracket and routed the Polyflo tubing as well.

The cad plating on the wing steel pieces have already started to rust. (Specifically at the welded joints and something like finger prints staining). I cleaned and painted them for added protection.

 

[Acd17931]

Ed,

The Javron wing flap attachments connect to both the aft spar and the flap cove skin. The inboard most and outboard most hangar brackets have a 3 leaf clover design and came with 3 SS screws with locknuts. I back drilled those into my reinforcement kit, and then included 2 additional holes for Cherry's. This was easy because that same Javron flap bracket also had two -4 holes not being used, and they matched the reinforcement kit drill locations Alaska gear company provided.

The middle hangar had a doubler on the inside of the flap cove already, which was back drilled and incorporated.

Some edge trimming was needed to match the skin overlapping joints, and avoid screws too close to the edge to be incorporated in the reinforcement kit. If the reinforcement overlapped a sheet metal screws I upgraded it to Cherry's.

I also elected to install the 90 degree bracket in the kit on the but rib.

I also had to rebend the doublers as they did not match the skin shape.

If you see an open hole on the last photo I was waiting on longer SS screws to replace the originals.

In my kit, the clear plastic hole finder helped for mark up and planning, but I didn't actually drill thru them as the instructions suggest.

Also you will want -2 and more -3 Cherry's to finish the job than what the gear company provided.

-Arthur
(Chet)