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4-Place Super Cub

Does Kirk have acmes now on his green cub? Is that the direction you’ll go along with 3” or 6” ext gear?
 
He runs ACME shocks so I suppose gear legs as well. I'm working with Airframes Alaska on a lot of stuff just to keep things local. They will be doing my gear and struts. 3" for now.
 
Updates.



Engines quotes are coming in and I'm down to 3 options. X340 or 370 with low or high compression. (Main difference being fuel options, hp, and counterweights) Vs older 360 with ACAeros legion package. Prices are in the 30-38k range and power between 180 to 200hp. ACAero water cooled cylinders sound cool on paper but I imagine a weight gain I can't afford. Their Falcon 200 is also really cool to see.


Hey ACD17931, Can you report more on the FL200 from AC Aero? Is it cub capable, and would you consider it on this project? Been lusting after their CAD animation and spec sheets, but its almost unbelievable. Would be a really neat capability to burn JetA. I know they are taking deposits, but I have not seen anything about a real life, rotating and breathing engine yet.
 
I am building a Javron cub. Using his wings with full length spars, extended PSTOL flaps, Ailerons extended to match flaps and pushed to the end of the wings. With 30 gal Attlee tanks in each wing, they custom made the leading/trailing edge to match the Attlee parts you normally use. Attlee tanks don't need a cover so they will weigh about the same or less than 25 gal Dakota tanks. 8 hours of fuel is nice if you are going to be flying around the brooks or out West. If you don't need it then don't put it in. DENNY
 
Mudofficier. All I was sent was a email to pay a deposit and a spec sheet on the engine. They asked for info on my airframe but never replied after that. So in short, we are all in the same boat.

Denny,
I'm sure I will look back and say. "I should have gotten bigger tanks". I'll be calling you soon to talk more.
 
Put a fuel injected engine in it and run it lean of peak. More power when you need it, more efficient when you want it. Use 48 gallons to outlast your buddies with 61.
 
Updates,
Purchased Javron square wings with full spars and ailerons out to the tips. Denny convinced me into getting the standard 24 gallon tank over CF.
Airframes Alaska is sending over my P-stol flaps hardware (3 hangar) to Jay for machining and doubler installs.

Jay has 30 Kits/wings in line before me and Airframes wont actually finish the flaps till May-ish. I'm not going to complain 1 bit.

Dakota trim parts like the jack screw, pulleys, and handle arrived last week. Airframes will have my cables ready by the time I leave work.

Inside the cabin I've laid out 10 mil clear plastic (firewall to Baggage wall) to begin the layout process of floorboards, joints, overlaps, and covers. The 10 mill is great at not stretching but still "see-though" enough to see nutplate locations, frames, etc. The plastic is also a great white board for notes you know you'll forget once you walk away from the project.

Any recommendations on a new welder? Mines about to get its last project.
 
Miller and Lincoln are obvious choices for a welder and the Lincoln square wave 200 is a good mid level choice.

I've been shopping for a new welder and looking into these chinese welders and it looks like they've come a long way. The Primeweld 225 is a really nicely featured welder with a genuine CK #17 torch and lead included all for $900. For that price you can blow up 2-3 of them for the price of one Lincoln. They have a 3 year warranty as well and US warranty support. Just something to consider aside from the usual red or blue welders.
 
Look at Yeswelder models on Amazon. For $400 I bought an inverter MIG-TIG-Stick machine for steel only. If you want AC/DC they have one for $700. Small and light. Not what a production shop would want but it fits my needs nicely. I'm tempted to buy a Hobart plasma cutter, too. They have a little one with on-board compressor for about $1000 at the local hardware store.
 
I've been running an Everlast 200EXT for about 4 years now. No complaints. With all the off shore welders, some people love them and some hate them. If you aren't making a living with it, dollar for dollar, you can't beat them. I've upgraded to 25' cables, and use a tib button instead of my foot pedal. I find trying to use a pedal while climbing around in the fusealge is not an easy task. Tig Button works great, no more foot pedal. For most stuff I use Furik gas lens with either a Jazzy 10 or Fupa 12 cup.
 
Buy once, cry once....miller Dynasty 200. Not cheap, but hands down, the most user friendly welder I've ever used.
 
I second the Miller Dynasty 200. Mine has worked well for the past 12 years.


Sent from my iPhone using SuperCub.Org
 
Updates,
Purchased Javron square wings with full spars and ailerons out to the tips. Denny convinced me into getting the standard 24 gallon tank over CF.
Airframes Alaska is sending over my P-stol flaps hardware (3 hangar) to Jay for machining and doubler installs.

Jay has 30 Kits/wings in line before me and Airframes wont actually finish the flaps till May-ish. I'm not going to complain 1 bit.

Dakota trim parts like the jack screw, pulleys, and handle arrived last week. Airframes will have my cables ready by the time I leave work.

Inside the cabin I've laid out 10 mil clear plastic (firewall to Baggage wall) to begin the layout process of floorboards, joints, overlaps, and covers. The 10 mill is great at not stretching but still "see-though" enough to see nutplate locations, frames, etc. The plastic is also a great white board for notes you know you'll forget once you walk away from the project.

Any recommendations on a new welder? Mines about to get its last project.

I really like my Lincoln 200 tig
And I have a Miller 250 mig it might be 255?
I also have a Miller 210 mig (more portable than the 250) it’s ok, l like the 250 better



Sent from my iPhone using SuperCub.Org mobile app
 
The Primeweld 225 is a really nicely featured welder with a genuine CK #17 torch and lead included all for $900.

I've had my Primeweld 225 for about a year now and have had no issues at all. Does everything I can think of without complaint. Honestly it still even looks like new. So far, the best welder I've ever owned.
 
Joemcd, 2200#. Jay mentioned haveing a set designed for 2400#+ but they kept breaking landing gear on testing so it got limited to 2300.

G44, the current plan is 4 total seats with the front rh mounted on a seat rail and often removed. If I center the seat, the throttle and mixture brackets welded in already might become a tad awkward to manipulate, but then again maybe not.

Thanks for the quick welder reviews.

I found an O-360-A1A for the project. She's in Maine and in need of overhaul. Came out of a Mooney M20A. Narrow deck. 1st step is shipping to custom aircraft engines in Palmer for overhaul. We will see what the damage is when they get it. Current overhaul quotes for those interested is 6-9 months. 20.5k add in 1k-3.6k for new cylinders and a couple hundred on paint choices as well as port & polish. Accessories are overhaul exchange but starters and alternator come new.

One option is to upgrade to high compression pistons and port and polish. Bonus is power, downfall is no mogas.

Another options is electronic ignition and "phase 4" cam shaft timing.

Now as I recall the A1A has no dynamic balancers so an rpm restriction was in place with constant speed props. I plan to run a ground adjustable whirlwind or sensenich. Does any one see a problem here with that thought or plan?


- Arthur Dyer V.
 
G44, the current plan is 4 total seats with the front rh mounted on a seat rail and often removed. If I center the seat, the throttle and mixture brackets welded in already might become a tad awkward to manipulate, but then again maybe not.



Good point. Now that you mention it, throttle and mixture would be awkward. Great thread, thanks for posting.
 
Arthur
You can go up to 9 to 1 on the compression ratio and safely run auto gas. Just a thought which may be debated on the site, but everyone that I have talked to that has the ground adjustable prop, after they get that prop set they don’t change the pitch. The idea being that “oh when I go on a cross country I’ll change the pitch and then when I get where I’m going I’ll reset it for a better out of the hole performance”, but the bottom line is nobody does that. So you may as well save the weight and get a fixed pitch prop.
Don’t forget to put the banana plates and improved case through bolts on the narrow deck.

Thank you for the thread.

Bill
 
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Arthur
Just a thought which may be debated on the site, but everyone that I have talked to that has the ground adjustable prop, after they get that prop set they don’t change the pitch. The idea being that “oh when I go on a cross country I’ll change the pitch and then when I get where I’m going I’ll reset it for a better out of the whole performance”, but the bottom line is nobody does that. So you may as well save the weight and get a fixed pitch prop.
Bill

I’ll add a thought to this Bill.
Like others I didn’t change my GA Sensenich once I found the pitch I loved. But it was night and day different from what I had, and it was also different on my second cub.

My belief is where a GA really shines is that every aircraft has its own set of data points. Power output is within 10% up or down of the rated output. Drag can easily be 10% up or down as compared to your buddy’s model, depending on wheel size, gear setup, pods, etc. So the only way you can achieve all the performance from _yours_ is to tweak the prop until find that sweet spot.
Why compromise with a fixed pitch that worked for someone else? :)

Pb

Ps, Bill, Rob Lynn said he talked to you about getting a Supercub after we harassed his airfield twice. Lol. It’s a really great spot.


Transmitted from my FlightPhone on fingers… [emoji849]
 
Arthur
You can go up to 9 to 1 on the compression ratio and safely run auto gas. Just a thought which may be debated on the site, but everyone that I have talked to that has the ground adjustable prop, after they get that prop set they don’t change the pitch. The idea being that “oh when I go on a cross country I’ll change the pitch and then when I get where I’m going I’ll reset it for a better out of the whole performance”, but the bottom line is nobody does that. So you may as well save the weight and get a fixed pitch prop.
Don’t forget to put the banana plates and improved case through bolts on the narrow deck.

Thank you for the thread.

Bill

Bill
All I am finding for auto fuel local is 90 octane Ethanol free. I blend with Avgas currently so no big deal. Every search turns up a different octane required for 8.5 - 1 compression. What would you say is safe for 8.5 - 1 pistons. DENNY
 
Last edited:
Bill
All I am finding for auto fuel local is 90 octane Ethanol free. I blend with Avgas currently so no big deal. Every search turns up a different octane repairmen for 8.5 - 1 compression. What would you say is safe for 8.5 - 1 pistons. DENNY
Denny,
My still original as it left Lycoming IO-360B1D has 8.5-1 pistons. The original data plate is stamped 91 octane. YET the TC 1E10 says 100/100LL.
 
The new experimental cub is going to have 8.5 - 1 I would like to get away with no AVGAS if possible but may just blend in a bit to raise octane like I do now. DENNY
 
My belief is where a GA really shines is that every aircraft has its own set of data points. Power output is within 10% up or down of the rated output. Drag can easily be 10% up or down as compared to your buddy’s model, depending on wheel size, gear setup, pods, etc. So the only way you can achieve all the performance from _yours_ is to tweak the prop until find that sweet spot.
Why compromise with a fixed pitch that worked for someone else? :)[emoji849]

That's the biggest upside to a GA prop. Besides the great performance that the Sensenich has, the ability to fine tune one prop to your high compression/port&polish experimental engine that has an unknown amount of power output is key. You may have to go through 2-3 different fixed pitches to find the right pitch whereas with a ground adjustable you just re-pitch it.

My understanding on the O-360 without the counterbalance shaft is that you need to avoid a range of something like 2100-2200 rpm continuous. You're unlikely to cruise at such a low rpm so it's mainly a precaution that can be disregarded. This applies to fixed pitch as well. The reason the pawnee prop isn't approved is a tendency to develop cracks in the last 4" of blade due to the harmonics of the O-360 at those rpm ranges. Again, just avoid cruising around at low power settings and you've got no problems.
 
My understanding on the O-360 without the counterbalance shaft is that you need to avoid a range of something like 2100-2200 rpm continuous.
You will find that rpm restriction on the applicable propeller TC, not the engine's.
 
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