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1953 PA-18 Rebuild

kevinbarton1

Registered User
San Antonio, TX
It has been 2 years since I decided to remove the seats and spruce up the interior. As we got further into the process we thought we may as well redo the panel and the next thing I knew we had the wings off and we were ripping all the fabric away. Ultimately I feel I made the right decision to rebuild the entire airplane. The original airplane had the 0-235 so it was lacking in the power department. I bought a rebuilt 0-320 160HP engine and thanks to all of the input on props, Steve Pierce helped me purchase a Borer -43. I have been at a stand still for about 6 months while the frame was being welded. I had just about all the desirable STC's anyone would want including the X-brace kit, reverse dog leg, extended baggage rails, over size rear baggage door, upper baggage door, tabs for cargo pod, float fittings, forward battery mount in right side of cowling, seat belt fittings to frame, headset hooks and cargo loops. We also cut out the lower longerons from the cabin all the way to the tail as well as replaced all the bent U-channel that surrounds the cabin. All of my flight controls were stripped, bead blasted, inspected, primed, covered and painted. They are all finished along the wings. I am hoping we have everything remounted in the fuselage in the next few weeks so we can start covering.
 

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Glad you mentioned that. My plane actually has that option already, but I did not think to ask anyone who reads this thread to comment on things they wish they would have done differently. Does anyone have any other ideas to share??

Thanks for your input!!!

Kevin
 
3 piece boot cowl. One piece from mid-side over the top to mid-side, one piece from tip to center of bottom. You now can clean under and maintain the rudder/brake pedals, add in ski stuff, and reach behind your panel without standing on your head.
 
Thanks! I fortunately have that one also. My old boot cowl was really thin sheet metal and looked like a hammered copper pan it was so dented. I figured with a “modular” boot cowl I could replace individual pieces if they were ever dented in the future! Thanks again for your suggestion! Kevin


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Thanks! I fortunately have that one also. My old boot cowl was really thin sheet metal and looked like a hammered copper pan it was so dented. I figured with a “modular” boot cowl I could replace individual pieces if they were ever dented in the future! Thanks again for your suggestion! Kevin


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You can fab or buy a firewall, and use a flange from Clyde Smith

If you make one you can put only the holes you need.

http://www.cubdoctor.com/stainless-firewalls/

Nut plates. Put them everywhere


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Fabricating is a bit above my skill level. I bought a firewall from Dakota Cub, which is where I bought the 3-piece boot cowl. Seems to fit nicely. We put it all together and the fit was very nice. Thanks for the reply!
 
Panel Layout

Here is my panel layout. The metal has been cut already so prob cannot make a ton of changes if I had to. It is rather basic for sure. I wish I would have left room for a transponder. I was not thinking I would ever really fly into Class C and certainly not Class B. The center is for a Garmin Aera 660.
 

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Nut plates. Put them everywhere


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Can't stress that enough! Along with those, use clip nuts. Both of these items allow you to install and remove 'stuff' by yourself. And don't let anyone tell you they aren't worth the time/effort it takes to install them. Replace a windshield and you'll be convinced of their value.

Web
 
Can't stress that enough! Along with those, use clip nuts. Both of these items allow you to install and remove 'stuff' by yourself. And don't let anyone tell you they aren't worth the time/effort it takes to install them. Replace a windshield and you'll be convinced of their value.

Web

We were going to use Riv Nuts in the U channel and nut plates anywhere else we can fit them. I wanted to stay away from using sheet metal screws.



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Might I suggest, if you use riv nuts, use the keyed ones. Less chance of them spinning which can be a real pain.

Just my opinion.

Bill
 
If friends let you install riv-nuts, they aren't really your friends. Riv-nuts all seem to work loose and spin at some point. I use square nuts in the ginger bread channels. One small hole for clearance of the screw is all you need. A dab of adhesive like B 1/2 will keep them in place and still allow you to dig them out if they are damaged.

Also, the clip nuts I'm recommending have a steel locknut in them. I agree about not using sheet metal screws any more than needed.

Use nylon washers under the heads of screws installed on painted panels or on anything polished, such as spinners. Keeps the screw heads from marking up the pretty stuff.

Web
 
We definitely have the keyed riv nuts. We are by no means professional builders, but I like to do things the right way. Is it possible to use nut plates on the U Channel??


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If friends let you install riv-nuts, they aren't really your friends. Riv-nuts all seem to work loose and spin at some point. I use square nuts in the ginger bread channels. One small hole for clearance of the screw is all you need. A dab of adhesive like B 1/2 will keep them in place and still allow you to dig them out if they are damaged.

Also, the clip nuts I'm recommending have a steel locknut in them. I agree about not using sheet metal screws any more than needed.

Use nylon washers under the heads of screws installed on painted panels or on anything polished, such as spinners. Keeps the screw heads from marking up the pretty stuff.

Web

I can appreciate your sense of humor btw on friends not letting you use riv nuts. LOL. I wasn’t aware of square nuts for the U Channel so I will check into that. I want to build the plane with the best practices in mind. I hope to pass this airplane to my sons one day so I hope they will not be rebuilding it anytime soon!!


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3 piece boot cowl. One piece from mid-side over the top to mid-side, one piece from tip to center of bottom. You now can clean under and maintain the rudder/brake pedals, add in ski stuff, and reach behind your panel without standing on your head.

no, 6 piece boot cowl like I did on the wildcatcub.... top, bottom, and 2 sides each... or maybe just a 4 piece(was a reason for the 6..).. that way you can leave windshield installed and easily get at anything behind dash area... 1 minute with a screw gun and you have access to anything...
 
K1000-6 nut plates fit in the 3/8" Piper channel. You sometimes have to take a Christmas tree burr and center the holes up since Piper didn't always drill in the center of the channel.

I hate rivnuts. Fresh rebuild, installing the rear trim on the skylight and the last rivnuts spins. Stainless screw is stuck in it. Tarp over the aft fuselage, flat piece of steel with a notch cut in it between the v screw and the fairing I cut the screw head off with a cutoff wheel, chisel the rivnuts out and replace. Get everything put together, remove the tarp to find a nice hole burned through the fuselage fabric from the cherry red hot screw head melting through the tarp and the fabric. No nice words were said. :evil:
 
K1000-6 nut plates fit in the 3/8" Piper channel. You sometimes have to take a Christmas tree burr and center the holes up since Piper didn't always drill in the center of the channel.

I hate rivnuts. Fresh rebuild, installing the rear trim on the skylight and the last rivnuts spins. Stainless screw is stuck in it. Tarp over the aft fuselage, flat piece of steel with a notch cut in it between the v screw and the fairing I cut the screw head off with a cutoff wheel, chisel the rivnuts out and replace. Get everything put together, remove the tarp to find a nice hole burned through the fuselage fabric from the cherry red hot screw head melting through the tarp and the fabric. No nice words were said. :evil:

I’m very glad I asked!!! Thanks for that post. Will be fitting the boot cowl this week.


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If you're not done with the fuselage, you might consider tabs on the lower tube of the door opening. Work well for attaching the interior panels. Lifting handles on both sides of the tail are pretty handy. Do you already have float fittings?

Jim
 
Thanks Jim. I have the float fittings, and lift handles on both sides of the tail. I’ll check into the tabs on the door opening. When I do put it on floats, how do most people “lift” the aircraft to get the floats underneath it?? Is there such a thing lift rings like on a boat? Just curious, I haven’t ever seen someone lift an aircraft that high for fitting the floats.


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Thanks Jim. I have the float fittings, and lift handles on both sides of the tail. I’ll check into the tabs on the door opening. When I do put it on floats, how do most people “lift” the aircraft to get the floats underneath it?? Is there such a thing lift rings like on a boat? Just curious, I haven’t ever seen someone lift an aircraft that high for fitting the floats.


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Atlee lifting eyes. Even useful on wheels. http://www.fadodge.com/lifting-eyes/
 
The Atlee Dodge lifting eyes are the way to go. Easy to install since your wings aren't on yet. You'll never regret it. However, be sure and use a spreader bar to lift the plane. Failure to do so will damage your fuselage. Search for some posts discussing this and photos.

Also, since your wings are off and easy to work on, you might consider the Dodge Hurricane tie-downs. A little bit of fabric work, but well worth it.

Jim
 
I knew there had to be an easy way to lift the plane! Thanks for your knowledge and reply Steve! My prop was delivered today. Progress every day.
 
No worries, I’ll order from Atlee!! Thanks for the reply...


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We noticed that the parts manual shows a grease fitting on this part, but my 1953 original doesn’t have one. I prob can guess the answer, but should I replace with a newer style that has the grease fitting?

Also wanted to know recommendations on light weight starters and alternator. 0-320 160hp with Sutton Exhaust.



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Also wanted to know recommendations on light weight starters and alternator. 0-320 160hp with Sutton Exhaust.



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After verifying flywheel tooth count is a 122 or you'll change it to a 122 because a 149 is thicker (and conflicts on an a 320) a Sky-TEC 122-NL is just the ticket. But if you'd like a 149-NL that won't fit I would be happy to make you a deal.
 
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