WindOnHisNose
BENEFACTOR
Lino Lakes MN (MY18)
I like the Tanis system, have them on the cub and the 210.
Randy
I like the Tanis system, have them on the cub and the 210.
I found the link to the article.
It starts off focusing more on pre-heating (as a way to extend engine life) but then goes into much more detail about preventing corrosion.
http://nebula.wsimg.com/1fd3c69cbb2...3181A996A1861998A&disposition=0&alloworigin=1
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Yes, I put all the time on this engine flying about 2 hrs a week all year long. I think I will: 1. Add heat in the hanger to keep it 35-45. 2. Get the machine that you plug into the breather pipe when not flying. 3. Don't preheat with a oil pan heater any more. 4. Use 80 oil year round as it seems to me it is good from about 30 to 90 degrees startup. 5. Use Camgard. 6. What else?
Good point. And every chemical reaction happens at a faster rate with increasing temperature. Seems the best thing would be to freeze-dry the engine after every flight. If so, I guess we’re looking for the second-best thing!Corrosion is a chemical reaction. Absolute humidity ( moisture content) of the air and temperature are the determining factors. Cold and dry is good. Warm and dry is not quite as good, since warm air can hold more moisture. In my climate (arctic), heating the hangar would not be worth the expense. The outside air in winter contains so little moisture that I prefer to let things remain cold.
MaBell used to set nitrogen tanks to dry out phone moisture prone trunk lines in the pre-fiber days, worked wonders. They would purge at a high rate and then reduce to a maintenance rate for long term.Maybe somebody should test argon or a similar dry, heavy gas. Inject argon into the oil filler to displace air. No more humidity. It could work.
Maybe somebody should test argon or a similar dry, heavy gas. Inject argon into the oil filler to displace air. No more humidity. It could work.
So that's what those were for. I recall seeing bottles tied to the pole but never figured out why.MaBell used to set nitrogen tanks to dry out phone moisture prone trunk lines in the pre-fiber days, worked wonders. They would purge at a high rate and then reduce to a maintenance rate for long term.
Mike, Isn't the humidity extremely low in Fairbanks, especially in the winter? I would think that the low humidity would take precedence over the temperature of the engine being warm. If there was very little moisture in the engine, what does it matter what the temperature is?I can recall a certain airplane that sat outside in Fairbanks, engine heater plugged in all winter, engine cover on, just “in case” the operator needed to go fly. There were a couple winters where that plane didn’t fly four or five hours, if that. I figured that engine would be a pile of rust.....
MTV
Had a permanent one installed near my house for years and years, any time it rained big the phone got staticky so after a few years of watching I'd just walk by and turn up the regulator... worked wondersSo that's what those were for. I recall seeing bottles tied to the pole but never figured out why.
Mike, Isn't the humidity extremely low in Fairbanks, especially in the winter? I would think that the low humidity would take precedence over the temperature of the engine being warm. If there was very little moisture in the engine, what does it matter what the temperature is?
A good fellow on this website crafts a nice dryer which attaches to the oil filler port on the engine.
Basically, he makes a tube which is filled with a dessicant that is blue when dry and effective, pink when it needs to be recharged. An aquarium pump is utilized to pump air through a filter and into the bottom of the dessicant tube. The air exits at the top of the tube, through another filter. The tubing is connected to an attachment which then is affixed to a plug that is threaded to fit the oil filler port. He sets the timer to activate for a few minutes at a variety of times throughout the day.
Our engine gurus at Bolduc Aviation/Horizon thinks this to be quite helpful.
There is a different plug for each aircraft.
View attachment 44289
Note the small clear plastic observation port just below the exit point of the dessicant tube, which allows me to see when it is time to dry the dessicant. When it turns pink I simply take off the top of the dessicant tube, pour the dessicant beads into a bucket, take them home and put them in a turkey roasting oven. I stir them once in awhile and after a few hours the beads have returned to their blue color, which indicates that they are dry and ready to go back into action.
View attachment 44290
View attachment 44291
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I like the concept. The engine folks think that this will keep dry air in and keeping the aircraft hangared is also a big plus from their perspective. They also suggest Camguard, which I use in my aircraft. It helps, too, that I fly each aircraft a lot.
Randy
True enough, Pete, but I have seen several other engines in Fairbanks turn up significantly rusty......but I don't know how those engines were treated over a long period of time, other than I know they sat idle for a long time.
But, in any case, every time you run an engine, you wind up with some moisture inside the engine, regardless of the outside environment, due to water in the fuel.
You're right, though, if I were going to park an airplane, I'd rather have it parked in FAI than Orlando.
MTV
I can recall a certain airplane that sat outside in Fairbanks, engine heater plugged in all winter, engine cover on, just “in case” the operator needed to go fly. There were a couple winters where that plane didn’t fly four or five hours, if that. I figured that engine would be a pile of rust.
Then, I wound up flying it, for three or four hundred hours......great engine, and I’m pretty sure it went to TBO without any unusual maintenance. Go figure.
I can testify that these conversations have been going on for at least fifty years, and frankly, I’m not sure we’re any more knowledgeable on how to prevent engine corrosion than we were when I started flying. Of course, nowadays an engine overhaul costs more than most houses did back then.
The one pretty well proven method to prevent corrosion in an airplane engine: Fly the hell out of it.
MTV
My father put a factory new 0-360 on his 172 in 2005. He has a Tanis heater, cylinder and sump plugs. In the winter he would plug it in on a timer. It would come on every morning and shut off around noon. 15w50 aero shell and no camguard. He was mostly the only one flying it. That engine went to tbo last year. Couple hundred hours over. Only thing I had to do was replace the intake gaskets, they cracked and at almost 2000 hr on the nose the slick mags took a dump. Other then that zero maint. Never had to pull a cyl or anything. Got it overhauled this winter and it looked like new inside.
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