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Building a Scratch Built Cub

Know of a O-200 fr sale. Was on a flying eurocope that hanger fell on. Think it ran good.

Thanks Don, I'm interested in learning more. Please private message me if you would like to.
john
 
I also know of an O-200 for sale. came out of a Cessna 150. Engine is located in central MN.
 
Wing Parts Building Update

The following is a quick update regarding some wing parts

IMG_4358.jpg

Here's a photo of some wing parts bought from Jay at Javron
in Brainard, Minnesota. These are strut attachment brackets
and all of the drag and anti-drag wires located inside the wings.
Very nice parts.

IMG_4360.jpg

We are fabricating drag struts which are the compression struts
located inside the wings running from spar to spar. These are being
made from 3/4" x 3/4" x 0.049" wall 6061T6 square tubing,
with round corners. Plugs are required to set inside of each end of the
struts and can be seen in the photo. Upon final assembly,
the plugs will set flush to the ends of the tubes.
The plugs are made from 6061T6 aluminum, machined to shape,
then drilled and tapped to receive a 5/16-24 AN bolt.
Prior to through drilling across the assembly, the "foot" needs to
be fabricated for each end as well.

stock in vertical mill.jpg

Fabricating the plugs - Here, a short length of aluminum
stock is clamped in a vertical mill, to machine the stock
square and to chamfer the four edges to fit inside the tubing.
After milling six lengths of the material, the bars are cut into
1-1/8" pieces.

drilling and tapping.jpg

The short pieces are then drilled and tapped.

IMG_4355.jpg

Our friend and fellow airplane builder (Lee)
accommodated us by letting us use his machine shop.
Lee set up the machines, for me to feed the parts
in and out, and run the mill. It was a real treat to
fabricate parts using a milling machine.

IMG_4356.jpg

Here's our stock of plugs. More than enough
for two sets of wings. An additional hole will
be drilled at a later time across each plug to
hold the plug into place in the compression tubes.

Thanks for looking,
John
 

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Scratch Building Update - Wing Drag Strut Fabrication

IMG_4585.jpg
I'm in the process of making the Drag Struts (cross members)
inside the wing. These are the struts that span from spar to spar.
The photo above is a finished strut.

IMG_4561.jpg
The tube is 6061-T6 3/4"x 3/4" 0.049" wall with round corners.
The threaded aluminum plugs (previous post) are tapped
into each end of the tube after the tube is cut to length.

IMG_4572.jpg
A "foot" is required on each end of the tubes. These are
made from 5052 aluminum, 0.050" thick.

IMG_4386.jpg
Paper Templates were made for each "foot", then plywood
templates were made. Appropriate size holes were routered
into the plywood using the form shown.

IMG_4391.jpg
Double sided tape was used to temporarily hold the plywood
template to the aluminum sheet.

IMG_4415.jpg
The aluminum is routered as shown, creating the "foot Blank",
which will later be formed to shape.
Notice, I added a smooth surface to the router table to
limit scratching. Simply find the proper speed and feed
when routering the aluminum to get a nice finished edge.
Peel the aluminum from the plywood, then break and
sand the edges as desired.

IMG_4567.jpg
A fixture was made to set up the assembly. Hole locations
were determined, then drilled by placing the entire fixture
on a drill press. Then AN3-11A bolts are installed.

IMG_4566.jpg
Notice the small steel shim located at the end of the
tube which simulates the tabs for the diagonal wires
inside the wing.

IMG_4582.jpg
Finished Drag Strut.

Thank you for looking,
John
 

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Scratch Building Update - Wing Drag Strut Fabrication

View attachment 37572
I'm in the process of making the Drag Struts (cross members)
inside the wing. These are the struts that span from spar to spar.
The photo above is a finished strut.

View attachment 37578

View attachment 37579
Finished Drag Strut.

Thank you for looking,
John
John,
You are doing a wonderful job of building your plane. Your workmanship and attention to detail is to be commended. These parts are called compression ribs not drag struts. They are used in compression holding the spars apart. The cross wires hold the spars together and are called drag and anti drag wires depending on the direction that their load is applied.

TRUSS+TYPE.jpg

Carry on I'm enjoying following your progress.
 
John,
You are doing a wonderful job of building your plane. Your workmanship and attention to detail is to be commended. These parts are called compression ribs not drag struts.

That's what I would call them, too. But Piper called them "Strut Assemblies--Drag" in drawing 14222 and elsewhere.

Vic
 
Project Update - Tail Feathers

Recent progress on the tail feathers is shown next. The Horizontal and
Vertical Stabilizers are scratch built, as are the Rudder and Elevators.

IMG_4809.JPG

With the fuselage upside down, the tabs for the lower brace wires
were fabricated and welded into place. I mounted the Horizontal
Stabilizers and attached the lower brace wires to set the correct
angle prior to tack welding.

IMG_4814.jpg

Using an Oxygen and Acetylene torch, the tabs were heated
for bending. After heating and beating, Charlie finish
welded the parts.

IMG_4816.jpg

Here's a photo of the TIG welder.

IMG_4838.jpg

Here's a photo of tail feathers bolted and braced in place.
I bought the very nice diagonal brace wires from Javron.
I still have a little work to do, to finish the tail,
however this is a milestone that I have been looking
forward to seeing complete.

Thank you for looking,
John
 

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Be aware that there was an AD issued many years ago which required a part to be added that joined the two tabs together. You should look into this as now would be a good time to update yours.

Thank you Skywagon8a. I appreciate you mentioning this. I will be sure to add a strap across the pieces.
john
 
also john, this is something that im sure your aware of, but weld a bushing in where the tailwheel spring bolt goes.
 
Last edited:
John,
Here's what I did. I bought the kit that addresses the AD from (I think) Airframe Alaska). The cross piece is one solid piece and the cross tube is a square tube welded between the lower longerons; replacing the round tube. The Tailwheel attach point has a bushing welded in, top and bottom. You sure are making great progress. Looking forward to seeing it again; maybe during Airventure again?
Marty



tail wire attach.jpg
 

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The Tailwheel attach point has a bushing welded in, top and bottom.

Thanks Marty. Yes, the bushing for the tail spring bolt still needs to be welded in. I'm aware of that one.
See you when you get to Wisconsin.
john
 
The cross piece is one solid piece and the cross tube is a square tube welded between the lower longerons; replacing the round tube. The Tailwheel attach point has a bushing welded in, top and bottom.

Yep, I agree on the square tube for the tailwheel bolt bushing. We did that on a Skybolt and a Hatz that I helped build, and I think it's a much stouter setup than the round tube.
 
Yep, I agree on the square tube for the tailwheel bolt bushing. We did that on a Skybolt and a Hatz that I helped build, and I think it's a much stouter setup than the round tube.

But, thats a lot of welding back there? isnt it? In one spot.
 
Hi John,
I had a great time at your Boot camp last weekend, I was thinking after the day of which build was yours and had it right, I like the fact you place allot of merit on making tools and fixtures.
Great build you have going.

Regards,
CharlieN
 
Project Update -

The following are some of the latest areas I have been making
progress on with my scratch building project:

TRIM CONTROL
IMG_7005.jpg
I'm going with a trim tab. The trim tab is literally
built in place in the elevator, then cut away. I'll use
a piano hinge however I hope to attach the hinge
on the vertical surfaces of the tab and elevator
using pull rivets, and this will be done after
covering this surfaces.

IMG_7001.jpg
I have the trim control handle roughed out as shown.
The handle needs to be cut shorter, then a bolt needs
to be welded to it to receive a phenolic knob.
A push-pull control cable is attached to the handle
and to the tab at the elevator. A bolt gets welded to
the pivot on the handle, through a steel bushing welded
to the fuselage with an oilite bearing pressed into the
steel bushing. Appropriate washers will be used for
friction surfaces, and a castle nut will be used to tension
the bolt for proper friction.

IMG_7004.JPG
Here's a photo of the push pull control cable running
along the fuselage. It seems that running the cable
inside the fuselage stringer may work well.

BAGGAGE DOOR FRAME
IMG_7008.jpg
Baggage Compartment Door Frame located
on right side. It's about 10" tall x about 16" long.
I wonder if it's big enough?

IMG_6771.jpg
I bent up some 0.020" steel into c-channel shapes
for the top and sides. I tried to paint a little primer
inside the channel and on the fuselage tubes
prior to welding in place. The bottom frame piece is a
piece of steel completely folded over itself, with a
generous radius on the outer edge to match the
shape of the stringer. Folding the piece over with the
radius makes it very stiff. I'll use a piano hinge along
the bottom to hold the baggage door in place.
I'm using aluminum hat shape material for the
stringers on the sides of the fuselage. I may simply
epoxy them into place to omit the need to weld tabs
on, but that is yet to be determined.

IMG_6999.jpg
A better idea of the size of the baggage door.
IMG_1771.JPG
When looking through my photos recently, I came
across this one I took during New Holstein 2013.
I thought folks may like it...

Thank you for looking, John
 

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Better see if a box of “Grain Belt” will fit in there before cover. “Castle Danger” and “Bent Paddle” as well. You never know...
 
Project Update - Tail Feathers

Recent progress on the tail feathers is shown next. The Horizontal and
Vertical Stabilizers are scratch built, as are the Rudder and Elevators.

View attachment 37827

With the fuselage upside down, the tabs for the lower brace wires
were fabricated and welded into place. I mounted the Horizontal
Stabilizers and attached the lower brace wires to set the correct
angle prior to tack welding.

View attachment 37828

Using an Oxygen and Acetylene torch, the tabs were heated
for bending. After heating and beating, Charlie finish
welded the parts.

View attachment 37829

Here's a photo of the TIG welder.

View attachment 37830

Here's a photo of tail feathers bolted and braced in place.
I bought the very nice diagonal brace wires from Javron.
I still have a little work to do, to finish the tail,
however this is a milestone that I have been looking
forward to seeing complete.

Thank you for looking,
John

I would say if you weld those tapered tabs (after bending for the literal folks here) to the cross tube, then that's as good as a strap. I believe the AD came out from the tabs being butt welded by TIG to the longerons. A cross-strap is certainly fine, but a tab which tapers down and loads in shear on the cross tube will be just as strong. The weak point is the heat-affected-zone just outboard of the longeron.. if you don't weld straight across the tab then you avoid that situation.
 
Project Update - Fabricating my Scratch Built Ribs
Step-By-Step Rib Building Process.



...


Fabricating Intercoastals - I then sheared a bunch of aluminum to
width, and cut pieces to the approximate required length. I then pressed
a bead down the center of the part using a small arbor press. A friend of mine
milled a slot into a piece of flat steel stock, and welded a piece of round
stock onto a second piece of flat stock to fabricate a bead former. I
did not have easy access to a roller style bead former, and this worked
very well in my home shop.

View attachment 32804
I then bent flanges on the intercoastals as shown using a small bench top break.

View attachment 32806
Cut and sand parts to final shape. Place as shown into the fixture,
mark and pre-drill the holes, then drill the final hole size, and add clecos as
you go to hold everything in place.

View attachment 32805
Ensure the cap strip is always tight against the form when inserting
the intercoastals, and make sure the intercoastals are tight against
their form blocks to maintain consistency. Use clamps when needed.

View attachment 32807
Pop the rib out of the form, take the whole thing apart to de-burr all
of the holes. Place it all back into the form for pre-assembly, again
using clecos prior to riveting.

View attachment 32808
Pop the rib out of the form again, and replace a cleco with a rivet, and
continue. You will notice that I drilled some holes in the wood form where
the clecos extend into the form. This is done to allow the rib to set
flat in the form when the clecos are in place. I used solid aluminum rivets
and a rivet squeezer.

View attachment 32809
I fabricated all of the full length ribs first, then modified the form
slightly to make the shorter ribs as shown.

View attachment 32810

John, I meant to ask earlier. What thickness aluminum did you use for the intercostals? I've decided to take your approach, which I also saw on the EAA video series.

Thanks. Your postings provide me a lot of encouragement.

Vic
 
John, I meant to ask earlier. What thickness aluminum did you use for the intercostals? I've decided to take your approach, which I also saw on the EAA video series.

Thanks. Your postings provide me a lot of encouragement.

Vic

Hi Vic,

I used 0.016" thick 6061-T6 Aluminum for the intercoastals. I am building what I consider a light Cub with a gross weight of 1550 lbs. I'll have 14 ribs per wing.

Good luck with your project, it's looking good, and I enjoy following your build.
john
 
Building Update - April 2019

I quick building update on my scratch built Super Cub

Fuselage Handle
IMG_7218.jpg
To fabricate the curved handle at the rear of the fuselage, I routered a groove
in a piece of 1-1/4" think counter top material to match the width of the tubing
to be used, and welded up, then pinned a retaining piece as shown.

IMG_7219.jpg
Simply insert the tubing and bend it around the fixture. Adjust the radius
of the handle as needed.

IMG_7248.JPG
Cut the handle to final shape.

IMG_7255.JPG
Weld in place.

Attaching the Rudder Arm
IMG_7118.jpg
I purchased the rudder arm from Wag-Aero. I inserted the rudder arm, aligned it,
then clamped it to the drill press. I drilled two holes through the assembly.IMG_7119.JPG
Here's a photo of the finished rudder arm on the fuselage.

Thanks for looking.
john


 

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Your project is very similar to My PA11 Build...I used a Ray Allen servo to run my elevator mounted trim tab. Your Build looks very nice....I'm in the U.P. but commonly go to visit relatives in Appleton....sometime maybe I could stop by and look at your build:)
 
Your project is very similar to My PA11 Build...I used a Ray Allen servo to run my elevator mounted trim tab. Your Build looks very nice....I'm in the U.P. but commonly go to visit relatives in Appleton....sometime maybe I could stop by and look at your build:)
Hi Dan,
Sure, stop by. I’ll try to send you a private message to follow up.
John
 
RUDDER PEDALS - Building Update


I've made some progress on the floor board, rudder pedal brackets,
and rudder pedal installationIMG_7038.jpg

Upon fabricating the rudder pedal brackets, they were fitted into place
and clamped as shown. By clamping a length of square tubing tubing
to them ensures alignment and flatness. Notice the brackets have not
been drilled yet.


IMG_0698.jpg

Upon welding the brackets in place, the pedal mounting clamps were
positioned in place as shown with a piece of tubing inside the clamps and
a straight edge clamped along them to again ensure alignment.
The pedal clamps were then used to transfer the holes into the welded brackets.


IMG_0701.jpg

With the round tube still in place, bolts were added to hold the
clamps in place prior to drilling the remaining holes.

IMG_1004.jpg

Here's a photo of the rudder pedals bolted in place with the pedal
clamps re-positioned under the pedal brackets for final assembly.

Floor board attachment brackets or "tabs" were positioned
and welded in place as well.

With the rudder pedals in place, the cable fair lead brackets can be
located and welded in place to receive the rudder cables.

Thanks for looking,
John
 

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RUDDER CABLE FAIR LEAD BRACKETS

Having the rudder pedals in place, I can fabricate and weld the
rudder cable fair lead brackets. These are the little brackets
that house the nylon fair leads to help guide the cable.

pedals located.jpg
Rudder pedals in place and temporary cable attached.


1 string line.jpg

I used a string line to locate the path of the rudder cables.
Notice the pulley clamped in place and a fair lead clamped
in place at rear of the baggage compartment area.


2 pulley location.jpg

The Piper Super Cub plan call out a 70 degree angle to locate
the pulley. I made a simple wood fixture to cut and clamp the
pulley in place. I tried to align the pulley to the string line
while the string is attached to the rudder pedal on one end
and the rudder horn on the other end.

3 pulley welded.jpg

The pulley bracket tack welded in place.


4 fairlead 1 location.jpg

Fair lead #1 located. Notice I am using the fair lead
with a tight hole through it only in this location after the
pulley to limit how much the cable bounces.


5 fairlead 1 welded.jpg

Here's fair lead # 1 clamped in place with the post
welded on.


6 fairlead 2 welded.jpg

A photo of fair lead # 2 in place. A nylon fair lead with a
more generous hole through it will be used in the aft locations.

7 fairlead 3 location.jpg

A photo of fair lead # 3 in clamped in place.

Using the same process on the opposite side of the fuselage,
all brackets are now in place.

Thanks for looking,
John
 

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Builder Update - Scratch Building a Cub - AILERON NOSE RIBS

Having the intent to build my own ailerons, I've been working lately on
fabricating aileron nose ribs. By Piper design, the flap nose ribs are the same part
number as the aileron nose ribs, so I'm fabricating flap nose ribs as well,
in the event I decide to install flaps.

5.jpg
We borrowed an aileron die press fixture from a fellow builder.
After some considerable testing and trials, I finalized the method.

1.jpg

The fixture included a template to trace the nose rib "blank".
I am using 3003 aluminum, 0.020" thick.
Trace and transfer punch the hole locations.

2.jpg

Drill pilot holes, up-size the holes to final size to fit the
die, and debur both sides. I used a twist drill to drill the
pilot holes, and a step drill to up-size the hole. The step
drill creates a nice round hole in the thin sheet metal.

3.jpg

Cut the blank using hand shears.

4.jpg

Break and Sand Sharp Edges, and debur. I used a
bench top belt sander.

6.jpg

Set the blank on the fixture, locate it in place
using locating pins with the die on top as shown,
and press the die and blank into the fixture
using an arbor press.

7.jpg

Using this fixture, the die bottoms out into the fixture,
so the fixture needs to be taken apart to finish the "press".
This little arbor press is a little small for this job, and I
needed to use a pipe on the handle to lengthen the handle
for more power.

8.jpg

Here's a photo of the second step to press the part
through the die.

9.jpg

Simply remove the finished part from the die.
A person may elect to sand any rough edges
off the part.

10.jpg

To show how close this part matches the original Piper
aileron assembly, I dissected an old aileron, and the
home made part fits nicely to the original.

IMG_0315[1].jpg

Thank you looking,

john
 

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