Installed Airframes PSTOL flaps on the Top Cub and and new PSTOLs have some droop. Told I need a heavy duty return spring,, anyone know the number or source??
Thanks
Steve
Installed Airframes PSTOL flaps on the Top Cub and and new PSTOLs have some droop. Told I need a heavy duty return spring,, anyone know the number or source??
Thanks
Steve
Waiting for before and after flight test. Never used them but those I know won't give them up. Not much for reports on floats yet. Just one and he said they were ok, but with some comments.
Gary
[QTwo=stewartb;841493]I think I have a handful from when I was working through my flap droop issue. You’re welcome to them.[/QUOTE]
2 different planes both have flaps u can’t rig up to ailerons outer hangers in upper flap was not cut out on inboard and out board hangers. Anyone else hade this happen
My Keller flaps have two bell cranks and each has return springs. I’ve done lots of adjustments on mine and can’t imagine holding mine up without springs on both locations. My flaps are 112” so maybe not the same setup as stock length flaps.
gntw,
Can that silver colored adjustment rod be lengthened enough to push the lower flap forward and up into the upper?
Gary
gnaw, ok I now see what's hitting. How now to fix? Cut out LE slots like some pics show?
Gary
Long story. The short version is I modified my bell cranks and reduced the number of springs to ease the effort to pull them on. As they are now I’m right at the balance point for staying up or drooping. Any droop goes away at prop start so I’ve left it. Adding another spring makes the pull effort harder and my flaps are hard enough to pull as it is. The springs I believe you want came from Stoddards. They’re what they sell to guys with the STC flaps. My arrangement is different and those springs wouldn’t fit.
stid2677 liked this post
I would think the Top Cub would have the heavy duty flap return springs. Curious to hear what you come up with.
I have not installed the experimental flaps but understand the leading edge is not cut out like the certified version.
If it’s a problem created by a manufacturing defect/design I would hope Airframes Alaska would make it right. Best solution would be for them to send you a replacement set and you could send yours back to them after you got the new set.
I have an experimental set and mounted them prior to covering the wings (which are still not covered). I had no trouble rigging them properly so I assume I don’t have the same issue as you. FWIW the experimental version of their PStol flaps are (when I bought them) built in Scapoose, OR. Certified are built in AK.
To be clear, This is the first Top Cub ever built, SN 01, Built by Jim from Cub Crafters. It originally had the Ailerons and flaps connected. This was removed before I came to be the care taker. It is an "Experimental" but has stock cub wings. The Airframes kit I bought is the certified version. They go up, just appears that they may bounce a bit on the taxi roll.
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jrussl liked this post
Ok, when I hear Top Cub I think of the 2300 lb gross weight certified CC18-180. Sorry
NX1PACrash, Jr. liked this post
It is convoluted, and maybe this is just me. 83552 is a Piper PA18-150 with Piper serial number but has the 180 hp engine with several other Cub Crafter's mods via field approval. Jim and Stan built that airplane prior to the STCs. Then there were the Spares and Surplus (data plate Cubs) airplanes which are certified PA18-150 Super Cubs but not Piper production so they have a CC serial number. Then there are the Cub Crafter's type certified CC18-180 which 43CR was serial number 1. Their marketing department did all kinds of things to help muddy the waters.
Cessna Skywagon-- accept no substitute!toklat$1 thanked for this post
Thanks for the info,, just going by what I was told from my partner who bought it from Mr Jim. They both have passed now and I sure miss my friend. The story told to me was, my friend bought a set of JS Smith EDO amphib floats and pursued Mr Jim to buy this Cub specifically because of the GW, it could legally fly these amphibs. Just trying to keep it safe under my care,, I fly my friends and family. One day I want my family to share an old photo like this and this Cub to still be putting smiles on faces. This photo was in the 1980s. I still have the operational floats as well.
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Steve Pierce thanked for this post
How do they expect them to work w/o some clearance from the hangers?
Gary
That’s not there problem, it’s the installers.
If you order 3 hanger flaps make sure they have the cutouts on all hinges. They said it’s a problem with some cubs but the old “we’ve never seen that before” just like the strut problem.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
BC12D-4-85 liked this post
Don't forget the paint brush -- "beat to fit, paint to match".
Cessna Skywagon-- accept no substitute!aktango58 thanked for this post
FWIW, my exp Keller (Oregon) flaps have the LE cut out at all 4 hangers, even at the two that don’t have drive rods.
jrussl liked this post
Why do the hangers without drive rods have adjusters? Mine don’t.
Last edited by stewartb; 02-20-2023 at 01:53 PM.
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