N2894P Rebuild (PA-18A-150) - Final Stretch

Howdy all. I've been a lurker and consumer of your collective wisdom on the forum for a while, but I'm coming down the home stretch now and am hoping for a few tips or last acts of advise before I do something I can't uncover. I'll add photos where appropriate, any feedback and ideas welcome.

Here's a brief intro to the project:
- It's a certified 1955 PA-18A-150 with an O320-A2A (lower-mid time, fresh teardown complete, rebuilt mags, other engine upgrades (starter, spin-on oil), hotrod exhaust
- fuse that came on the plane was a PA-18, got a well-repaired ag frame to return it to proper 18-A +mods (and clean books)
- fuse mods are L21 windows, welded seatbelt attach, reverse dogleg, ext baggage, rear +structure, elevator zerk, round formers, tank baggage door, headerless fuel
- under seat battery and redo on the electrical, nothing fancy on panel or nav
- wings: replaced all 4 spars, most ribs, lift points, tie points (no 2000lb kit), light kit both wings, high tension pullies, new cables and skins. Yakima AS is covering wings.
- gear is the 6" extended, 6-bolt wheels, cubcrafters master cylinder upgrade, safety cables, baby bush on the back, adjustable brake links

In terms of resources, working off the northland drawings, maintenance and service manual, parts catalog and L21 guide, plus the A&P/AI overseeing my work-- and the forum, thank you for all the great help. I also have a lot of good parts that I've replaced (generator, battery box, baggage doors, etc), so ping me for parts if anything comes to mind.

Couple questions right out of the gate I'm interested in:
(1) the A-model fuse had a metal belly and has tabs. I like the idea of metal because I'm in the high desert (central oregon) and sage brush and rock has brutalized the belly and feathers on my C120, it seems smart. Anybody have any compromise solutions they like or threads that I should read (or again) such as 50/50 or plans for the right bends?
(2) the fuse didn't come with side stringers, but it has tabs (of uneven length). I can't find for the life of me the distance the side stringer (14979-00) should be from the upright tubes, anybody have that from memory or a reference to point me at?
(3) if you have a top/tank baggage door, did you lexan or fabric it - and any pointers on seal (it's gonna leak) techniques that worked well?

Thanks in advance and I look forward to ideas and encouragement to get this two-year in the making project flying soon.

Wade

These are some plastic dies I made for my bead roller. For forming the belly skins so they fit nicely to the longerone. I have about a three foot belly skin at the tail, and under the cockpit I have another belly skin in two pieces.

(1) the A-model fuse had a metal belly and has tabs. I like the idea of metal because I'm in the high desert (central oregon) and sage brush and rock has brutalized the belly and feathers on my C120, it seems smart. Anybody have any compromise solutions they like or threads that I should read (or again) such as 50/50 or plans for the right bends?

Heavy fabric and an aft tail clean out like Atlee Dodge sells would be my choice. Mine had a metal belly that I did away with at rebuild, clunky, heavy and I just didn't see the benefit.

(2) the fuse didn't come with side stringers, but it has tabs (of uneven length). I can't find for the life of me the distance the side stringer (14979-00) should be from the upright tubes, anybody have that from memory or a reference to point me at?

I can measure, helps when you took it apart and it comes with the stringers the factory installed. Holes are already there for the safety wire and it pretty much goes where it was suppose to.

(3) if you have a top/tank baggage door, did you lexan or fabric it - and any pointers on seal (it's gonna leak) techniques that worked well?

I take it you have structure welded in their? Seen sky lights and fabric.

With a full metal belly or just a tail clean out make sure the front of the panel is overlapped by the one in front of it or fabric former so the edge can't get snagged and pulled back. A belly pod will take a lot of abuse and protect the fabric, keeps all the over gross weight none of ever carry in the right spot, no speed penality. Do not pop rivet in extended baggage!! Put interior side panels in after you have panel completed, I see lots that are built too tall and very difficult to remove once panel is in place. Stringer offset from tube should not matter as long as gingerbread/framing end point is same distance. ( I am running external trim wire on my experimental and will adjust that side to fit. When you build the floor that extends out the baggage door make sure to account for the frame offset caused by the stringer. Lay a straight edge off the bottom tube and the stringer that will give you the distance the floor should come out.
DENNY

Are you not doing the 2000 gross?

Bill

Can't wait to see this build as I own your sister aircraft: N2884P, also an A model that plan to rebuild one day. I still have the full metal belly and I would go with what Steve said with a tail clean out and HD fabric!

Wasn't planning to do the 2000lb stc - sounds like there might be a subtle suggestion to reconsider.

daedgerton said:

Can't wait to see this build as I own your sister aircraft: N2884P, also an A model that plan to rebuild one day. I still have the full metal belly and I would go with what Steve said with a tail clean out and HD fabric!

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Awesome to see the relatives! Thanks for the feedback on the belly from all - sounds like a much better plan than full-metal approach.

wadeholmes said:

Wasn't planning to do the 2000lb stc - sounds like there might be a subtle suggestion to reconsider.

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If you think you are going to ever sell it then it makes sense...

I know writing the check to Wipline for the #2000 up gross weight isn’t fun but I think you get it all back at resale and then some. Consider it an investment.

KJC said:

I know writing the check to Wipline for the #2000 up gross weight isn’t fun but I think you get it all back at resale and then some. Consider it an investment.

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It has gotten to be pretty crazy what they are charging...

Grant said:

It has gotten to be pretty crazy what they are charging...

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What is the kit costing now?

i think $4800

I like skylights. I had an extended one on my PA-18A when I could play owl and turn my head. Finally I stuck a sideview mirror on the front crossbar. Can't be too careful. Once had a DC-6 pass overhead going my way. I saw him in the mirror as a movement from the rear.

Gary

Grant said:

i think $4800

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BC12D-4-85 said:

I like skylights. I had an extended one on my PA-18A when I could play owl and turn my head. Finally I stuck a sideview mirror on the front crossbar. Can't be too careful. Once had a DC-6 pass overhead going my way. I saw him in the mirror as a movement from the rear.

Gary

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Your old A has a little bigger rear window now…


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wadeholmes said:

Couple questions right out of the gate I'm interested in:
(1) the A-model fuse had a metal belly and has tabs. I like the idea of metal because I'm in the high desert (central oregon) and sage brush and rock has brutalized the belly and feathers on my C120, it seems smart. Anybody have any compromise solutions they like or threads that I should read (or again) such as 50/50 or plans for the right bends?
(2) the fuse didn't come with side stringers, but it has tabs (of uneven length). I can't find for the life of me the distance the side stringer (14979-00) should be from the upright tubes, anybody have that from memory or a reference to point me at?
(3) if you have a top/tank baggage door, did you lexan or fabric it - and any pointers on seal (it's gonna leak) techniques that worked well?

Wade

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1. I rebuilt my A fuselage last winter. I removed all metal belly parts except the rear panel. The access was useless, it was heavy, and it’s easy to repair fabric, especially on the belly. I would rather deal with fabric patches on the belly than the cost and added weight of the metal belly. The access the panels give, other than the rearmost, was useless, especially if you have an extended cargo. All you see is the bottom of the floor. It also adds more points for water and crap infiltration, although it’s easy to remove the gunk when you remove the panels. In a perfect world, I’d do the rear metal, fabric in the middle, and metal under the seats/pedals. Also, if you’re really worried about it, cargo pods are awesome, and pretty much cover the whole area.
2. My side stringer (aluminum one from Univair I think) is halfway between the middle and lower longeron. It is directly attached to the diagonals and upright tubes.
3. Use and modify the Flanagan STC and get rid of the top lid structure. I have all plexiglass there an just use a liberal amount of clear silicone sealant. Cub Crafters will sell you the STC, although the documentation on it is lacking.




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Grant said:

i think $4800

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Was $3300 last I bought one. I notice the price isn't on the website, you know what that means.

How much just for the cool decal?

Some locals that do sealing use Lexel. Remains flexible and clear. Takes time to cure. I stuck some around my Taylorcraft skylight and other spots and it can be smoothed out soon after application.

Gary